Question directed at those who have the stator mod - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-23-2014, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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Question directed at those who have the stator mod

i have the motor out and the side cover cut already and when i mock up the mod plate to the side cover with the cut out piece on it .
it looks like the stator will not be set inside the rotor as much as it was.
ive seen pics of some people putting in spacers to set the cut out inboard more . not much but just a tad to where it was in the first place

do i need the spacers?

also i seen the plate gets sandwiched between the side cover and the inspection cover , but that sets the inspection cover out away from the side cover the thickness of the mod plate, therefore the stock gasket wont seal

what is the fix for this ??? crapton of rvt? really don't like that idea at all

what about shaving down the bolt hole posts on the side cover to compensate for the mod plate thickness??

ive seen all the pics of peoples mods done and have not noticed anyone with the inspection cover spaced out like im exper.

http://map.vulcan750.net/

VROC# 33976
1994 VN750

MODS SO FAR:
honda shadow 750 sissybar
ear shaved, K&N pods
142/42 jets, Cobra pipes
oversized tires, vn800 seat
vn750 rad cover, Tank bib
custom mirrors, gel battery
led dash lights, led tail light
led plate light, chrome levers
horn relocation, custom voltmeter
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-23-2014, 09:42 PM
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GloryRider put 2 or 3 washers in as spacers actually moving his stator in a tad further inside the housing and allowing clearance for his stator leads to run between the new plate and the stator. You can see what he did here. ( https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthrea...=44450&page=11 )

And yes, shaving down the bolt posts works well.

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-23-2014, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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I just read that thread and that's what im looking for lol .
it didn't come up in my searches for some reason. im wondering why he elected to drill out the center holes and go with bolts and nuts vs. using the bolts from the outsid in going into the center piece ?

http://map.vulcan750.net/

VROC# 33976
1994 VN750

MODS SO FAR:
honda shadow 750 sissybar
ear shaved, K&N pods
142/42 jets, Cobra pipes
oversized tires, vn800 seat
vn750 rad cover, Tank bib
custom mirrors, gel battery
led dash lights, led tail light
led plate light, chrome levers
horn relocation, custom voltmeter
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-23-2014, 11:09 PM
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I can't remember why he did that, I asked him at the time and it made sense. I sent him a message so maybe he'll chime in with the answer.

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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 12:36 PM
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Hey Tofer,

Glad my thread could help out! I went with the bolts and nuts because there is no way to bolt anything from the outside in... The holes in the stator core aren't threaded so there's nothing to bolt into to hold the stator to the plate if you bolt it from the outside in... The spacer cut from the original inner cover has threaded holes, so running a bolt from the backside of the stator core, screwed into the spacer, then the additional spacing washers (to push the stator inside the rotor more), through the new steel mounting plate, and then finish with loctite nut keeps everything nice and secure.

Let me know if that's unclear at all, or if I misunderstood your question....

------------------------------
GloryRider
Atlanta, GA
Current Ride: 1995 Vulcan 88 (1500A9)
Purchased Dec. 2014
approx. 6,800 miles

Previous Bike: 2000 VN750 "Glory"
With homemade stator
Details on stator build here

"Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul"

"You live more in 5 minutes on a bike like this going flat out than some people live in their lifetime." - Burt Munro
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