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Got the RLU bypass done a few days back. It solved the flicker-y Headlight light on the dash! And, after the blue wire mod, the light comes on when the key turns, which is very nice. Also, the LED has a much better spread and is just brighter at night.
I also replaced my rear brake/running light with two LEDs. Changing these and the headlight to LED has really reduced the dim of lights at idle while the brake light is being activated like at a stop light.
There is a barely noticeable flicker with the new LEDs only at idle, but it's very minimal and I don't think I'm going to worry about it.
Thanks for the help guys!
I also replaced my rear brake/running light with two LEDs. Changing these and the headlight to LED has really reduced the dim of lights at idle while the brake light is being activated like at a stop light.
There is a barely noticeable flicker with the new LEDs only at idle, but it's very minimal and I don't think I'm going to worry about it.
Thanks for the help guys!
Last edited by magicdave2; 06-17-2018 at 10:43 PM.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vulcan Rules
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For the Blue wire mod cons - Headlight stays on when key is turned on, which obviously takes power away from starting.
What I did was splice in a good quality mini toggle switch between the ground headlight wire inside the headlight cover, drilled a small hole in the lower head light cover to run the mini toggle switch through. The switch can then be off for starting, then easily turned on when warmed up and ready to ride. Very inexpensive easy fix to get full power for starting, after doing the Mod.
What I did was splice in a good quality mini toggle switch between the ground headlight wire inside the headlight cover, drilled a small hole in the lower head light cover to run the mini toggle switch through. The switch can then be off for starting, then easily turned on when warmed up and ready to ride. Very inexpensive easy fix to get full power for starting, after doing the Mod.

Sent from my SM-J700T1 using Tapatalk
The ground wires on this bike are black w/yellow stripe. Ground switching is the best way to go when it's possible, no chance of it shorting out. My voltmeter is switched on the ground side.
If you get the AGM battery, the headlight staying on should be no problem.
If you get the AGM battery, the headlight staying on should be no problem.
2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf
Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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Hi Guys (and Gals) 👋 I’m in England and have just joined. I’ve recently replaced my stator and rectifier and suddenly have the dreaded “Headlight not working” scenario. I think a mod was done to the bike before I got it (late last year) as the headlight used to come on with the ignition switch. I can’t see the “blue wire mod” at the fuse box end though and the connector where one would expect the power to come onward from the fuse is empty, so where does it go and is it really protecting the headlight circuit????☹️
My question is - is the headlight relay replaceable? And if so how? As this seems to me to be the obvious solution...
I’m no electrician, so please excuse me if the answer is staring me in the face!
Safe journeys all
Ade
My question is - is the headlight relay replaceable? And if so how? As this seems to me to be the obvious solution...
I’m no electrician, so please excuse me if the answer is staring me in the face!
Safe journeys all
Ade
Hi Ade,
After the standard blue wire mod, the headlight fuse will be unused, and the taillight fuse will provide power to the headlight.
Replacing the headlight relay requires desoldering the old component and soldering a new one back onto the circuit board. It is not a horrible procedure if you're comfortable soldering, if you can find the right component to buy.
Regarding the rest of your problems, I suggest starting a new thread specific to resolving the problems on your bike since it sounds like there's going to be a lot of investigation involved and we should try to keep the post count low on this "how-to" thread to keep things clear for future readers of the blue wire mod.
After the standard blue wire mod, the headlight fuse will be unused, and the taillight fuse will provide power to the headlight.
Replacing the headlight relay requires desoldering the old component and soldering a new one back onto the circuit board. It is not a horrible procedure if you're comfortable soldering, if you can find the right component to buy.
Regarding the rest of your problems, I suggest starting a new thread specific to resolving the problems on your bike since it sounds like there's going to be a lot of investigation involved and we should try to keep the post count low on this "how-to" thread to keep things clear for future readers of the blue wire mod.
1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated
Vulcan slang for newcomers
Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
What is the “reserve” lighting unit for?
And how do I check it’s working please?
As still baffled as to why I have power going to the blue wire from the headlight fuse, but no power at the light... 🤔
Cheers
And how do I check it’s working please?
As still baffled as to why I have power going to the blue wire from the headlight fuse, but no power at the light... 🤔
Cheers
Thanks for your help Thorn btw 👍😁
Quote:
Originally Posted by BannedAde
View Post
What is the “reserve” lighting unit for?
And how do I check it’s working please?
As still baffled as to why I have power going to the blue wire from the headlight fuse, but no power at the light... 🤔
Cheers
And how do I check it’s working please?
As still baffled as to why I have power going to the blue wire from the headlight fuse, but no power at the light... 🤔
Cheers
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