Blue wire bypass - headlight relay mod - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 04:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calebj View Post
Based on the diagram on page 15-36 in the manual, this bypasses the headlight fuse as well. May want to seriously consider adding an in-line fuse to protect things.
It actually moves it to a pin that is protected by the TAIL fuse, also 10 amps, so the headlight is still completely protected. You can even move the 'dash' lights (red/blue wire) to the originally empty spot (pin 17, tail-light fuse protected), and move the headlight (blue) to where the red/blue wire was. That gives you all the benefits of the mod while keeping the headlight on the headlight fuse for OCD people.

Crowley said the pros and cons would surely be discussed, but nobody discussed! Here's my take on it:

Pros:
1. Protects against a dead headlight due to headlight relay failure.
2. Your headlight comes on as soon as you turn the ignition to 'on'.
3. No wires cut means this mod is completely reversible.

Cons:
1. Since the headlight will come on when you turn the ignition to 'on', it lowers the available voltage to the starter motor.


I'm also going to recommend an additional step to the mod:
Remove the smaller, ten pin molex connector from the junction box. Using a small screwdriver, release the retaining pin on the yellow wire's blade connector (pin 9), which should be the second wire up on the back row.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/upddo0qmgy..._0343.JPG?dl=0
Cover the blade connector in shrink wrap and heat it until securely insulated.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/52hbync30z..._0349.JPG?dl=0
Use a small zip tie to gently but firmly secure this wire to the bundle of yellow stator wires that go to the rectifier/regulator so it doesn't wander somewhere it shouldn't.

Additional pros:
4. Protects your stator from burning out if the headlight relay coil shorts out. (the safer the better)
5. Protects the starter relay (the one outside the junction box) from the constant unregulated voltage pulses it usually gets from the stator.
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post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 08:34 AM
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Thanks for clearing that up. That's great information!

1986 VN750 27k miles
1999 EN500 32k
1983 GL650i in pieces. Someday it will ride again.
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post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 10:42 PM
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Thumbs up Easy Fix for Blue wire mod cons

For the Blue wire mod cons - Headlight stays on when key is turned on, which obviously takes power away from starting.

What I did was splice in a good quality mini toggle switch between the ground headlight wire inside the headlight cover, drilled a small hole in the lower head light cover to run the mini toggle switch through. The switch can then be off for starting, then easily turned on when warmed up and ready to ride. Very inexpensive easy fix to get full power for starting, after doing the Mod.
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post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-23-2016, 06:58 AM
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Relay no fuse ?

Ty for the headlight switch info, that is a great idea and that is what I am going to do. Knew I was going to put a switch on just didnt know where.

Question, my stator is out, and I have been riding the bike all summer np, just keeping it on battery tender when not riding it. I just recently joined here and started getting familiar with the Vulcan elec system. I just found out the headlight has its own fuse, I should of thought of that way earlier, lol. So I pulled the fuse, the cops here dont care and I don't ride at night.

So, my question is, if the headlight fuse is pulled, the headlight relay is disabled and the headlight will draw 0 juice right ? Sounds like a stupid question, the headlight is off, so its draws no juice right? But I am just making sure there is no need for me to do the headlight mod if I am just going to leave the fuse pulled.

With the headlight fuse pulled and the biggest deep cycle gel battery I can fit in the hole, I bet I can ride a long time with no stator.

1985 VN700A
FYI :
Kawasaki introduced the 750 cc class Vulcan worldwide in 1985. Due to tariff restrictions in the United States on bikes over 700 cc imported from Japan, the initial US spec model was limited to 699 cc. The tariff was lifted in 1986 and the Vulcan went to 749cc.
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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-23-2016, 08:46 AM
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the headlight relay itself will still draw power, however, its a small amount.

the headlight (low beam) is 55w if I recall.. disconnecting it will increase the time for battery to die.. but.... the tail/brake lights are a big draw as well.. I think each bulb draws about 15w? and there are 2 of them. Also the turn signals and running lights (front only) draw about 10w each, more in front if flashing.

unless you have replaced them with led's, you still have a considerable amount of draw from lighting.
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post #16 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-24-2016, 03:23 PM
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Hey that is a good idea if a stator goes out, pull the headlight fuse and just ride in the daytime. You can do the switch mod later if you decide to replace the stator. I would guess pulling the fuse would cut the power to everything related to the head light circuit. Will have to look at a good wiring diagram, the ones I've found so far for the vulcan are terrible, small, black and white, plus blurred out.
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post #17 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-24-2016, 04:54 PM
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The headlight fuse also powers forward running lights and all instrument lights (spedometer lights, fuel meter light, tach lights).

I have a wiring diagram linked in my signature that has clearly labelled wires plus some design notes. Still under construction, but always improving. Check back for the most recent version when you need.

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

Vulcan slang for newcomers
Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
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post #18 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-23-2018, 11:10 PM
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I've got a quick question regarding the blue wire mod.

I bought an OPT-7 LED headlight bulb for my 750.

I did the blue wire mod and the LED lights right up when the key goes on. No flickering at low RPMS. It seems to be running at full brightness.

The odd part is when I'm riding and coming to a stop or accelerating from a stop the HEADLIGHT indicator light flickers on and off. It goes off when I pull in the clutch.

It doesn't seem to be causing any trouble or anything to not work right but it's irritating.

Any ideas??? Thanks!
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post #19 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-24-2018, 10:28 AM
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Check out the Reserve Lighting Unit Bypass mod.

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

Vulcan slang for newcomers
Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
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post #20 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-24-2018, 10:37 AM
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Hi Thorn,

I thought by doing the blue wire mod, I was bypassing the RLU. Is it only bypassing the headlight relay?

Thanks!
David
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