Replacing stator without removing the engine - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
AAA
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Replacing stator without removing the engine

Hello everyone, I am a new member of the Forum even though I have VN700-A1 for over eight years without any problem until recently when the bike fell down as a result of strong wind I started having problem with the stator. I purchased a stator plate for mod from gcextreme and I am going to do the mod tomorrow without removing the engine. I am asking for any advice on what to and what to avoid. I heard that I have to drain the engine oil, anything else I shall do before I start cutting with Dremal.
Thanks
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AAA View Post
Hello everyone, I am a new member of the Forum even though I have VN700-A1 for over eight years without any problem until recently when the bike fell down as a result of strong wind I started having problem with the stator. I purchased a stator plate for mod from gcextreme and I am going to do the mod tomorrow without removing the engine. I am asking for any advice on what to and what to avoid. I heard that I have to drain the engine oil, anything else I shall do before I start cutting with Dremal.
Thanks
I would avoid doing this mode without removing the side case from the engine. You risk getting metal in the engine. Some have done this with success, some without. I wouldn't chance it, it only takes about 2 hrs to pull the motor.


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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 08:23 PM
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Glory Rider recently did this and posted the process with pics. He ran into a few bumps and went the extra mile by rewinding his stator at home (even more pics).

All of the pros, cons, and members thoughts about the process are here.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthrea...ctrical+issues

You will see a lot of negative thoughts on the issue but trust me when I say his bike now runs great, I rode it today

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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 10:06 PM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
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Quote:
I would avoid doing this mode without removing the side case from the engine. You risk getting metal in the engine. Some have done this with success, some without. I wouldn't chance it, it only takes about 2 hrs to pull the motor.
Quote:
All of the pros, cons, and members thoughts about the process are here.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthrea...critrical+issues
X3

Read the verses !

90% of experienced Vulcan Riders/ mechanic's will/do advise NOT to perform stator Mod W/O pulling the Cover....which involves an engine tilt @ minimum !

fyi: ...most would + approve if you installed a TPE Stater. (TPE.com)

How many miles on your engine....How's your damper's ? (mine went out @ 13K miles....sucks when they do go out).

Dampers = $40.00 for 6


'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!

Last edited by WilliamTech; 03-15-2014 at 10:14 PM.
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-16-2014, 02:51 AM
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Hay...another Limey...cool....welcome brother !!!!...a few from the UK here btw....if the bike got wonky afer it went down, get it to operating temps when on the centerstand, if you have one, if not the sidestand....then bleed the cooling system....

One time, my bike went over when I was just moving it in the carport (thats UK lingo for garage for you US dolts, lol)....ran like sheit after, until I bled the system, then after ran like a raped ape (no idea where thats from, but describes perfectly)....try doing a proper bleed before anything else....



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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-16-2014, 07:32 PM
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If you are going to do it without removing the engine, and cut it out on the bike, then have a vacuum/shopvac running right there to suck up the debris.

Yes you may get filings in the engine, be best to suck it out and run a few quarts of oil in it and drain it out a few time.

Can it be done without removing the engine, YES, is it 100% recommended, NO.
But if done right you can avoid any damage.

Take your time, be patient, and if you have a friend to help thats even better.

Glenn C
Alexandria, MN
My VN750 Page
VN750 Stator Plates and Products

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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-18-2014, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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Guys thank you all for your respond and support. I finally took my time and decided to remove the stator without removing the engine. I must admit is mentally challenging but I trust myself I can do it. Well, I did it but not just yet finished everything. I am very sure there is no debris in the engine because I cover all the gaps with tape used vacuum plus I flushed with two cans of break cleaner. I still haven, pull out or cut the power cables yet. I need to carefully study how to pull the entire power cables out. By next week I may get the bike ready for my daily ride to work.
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-18-2014, 10:14 PM
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I did mine while the engine was on the bike 14000 miles ago. Had just put in a new stator by engine pull and it failed at 400 miles. Said I wasn't pulling the engine again. If I had my bike lift at the time I would have pulled the engine again I suppose. Had both knees replaced and can't get down on them very well. Anyway, had no problems to date. Granted I used old oil (10 gallon) from our shop and flushed the casing by pouring it through the stator hole and out the drain. I also filled the case up to the point of running out the stator hole to stop any dust from blowing around in the engine while cutting. Shop vac and oil soak rags to seal the holes. Changed oil and filter after 5 minutes of run time. Then changed filter after 3 miles of riding. Complete oil and filter change after 100 miles of riding. No problems. THEN I wished I had pulled the casing so I could have done the balancers. I questioned myself for the first 1000 miles as to will everything be OK. I never had a single shaving in the drain screen. Thank You Lord.
Trick is to cut very slowly. Filter will caught the remaining dust. It will caught the shaving. But shaving get in the oil pumping before they get to the filter. Is it doable? Heck yeh! Is there a chance problems can become of it due to shavings? Heck Yeh! CUT SLOWLY! NO SHAVING!!! FLUSH WELL!

Oh, one more thing I would like to suggest. Don't use brake cleaner or fluid such as brake fluid. They will cause rubber to swell and the balancers are rubber. Diesel fuel would be better and can be flushed out with used oil. It is oil based.

Last edited by Chuck A.; 03-20-2014 at 11:39 PM.
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-20-2014, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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Chuck, thanks a million. I am going to flush the engine with diesel and engine oil then do as you did changing oil and filter at 5 minutes run and 100 miles. At the moment because of work I haven't got the time to try to pull the stator power cables yet. I would try to do it on Saturday, may be I have to unscrew the engine side cover a little bit to pull the cables. Once again thanks all for your support especially Glenn for encouraging me to joing the forum, it has been a great support from you all.
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-20-2014, 11:49 PM
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I used the existing rubber grommets. I cut the bullet connectors off the stator wires, soldiered a 3 foot piece of wire to them and pulled the wires out through the case. Tie the loose end of the 3 ft piece to something so that you don't pull it all through the hole. Makes a pull line. Then I cut the connectors off of the rebuilt stator and soldiered them to the pull line and pulled them back through the grommet. I soldier the stator wires to the harness wires, no pulls. Worked really easily.
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