Replacing r/r--battery, too? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-11-2007, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
 
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Replacing r/r--battery, too?

Howdy, as we say in California. Or not.

I've got a 92 VN750, and it's been giving me electrical trouble since I bought it a few months ago. A week after I bought it, it sat for a couple days and wouldn't start, even with a jump--I then noticed that the r/r connector was corroded and probably shorting, so I replaced that, and was able to jump it and ride it ALMOST home. Kept dying at idle. Got it to the shop by jumping it and riding with the choke way out (cojones calientes as we DO say here). They cleaned the carbs out and it started and ran OK.

They did notice that the r/r was bad and that the battery wasn't getting charged higher up the power band. They said it wasn't urgent as long as I wasn't spending most of my time with the throttle wide open, since it would charge at lower revs. OK, I figured, I'm broke, I'll do this myself when I get around to it.

So in the course of moving, I let it sit for a week and a half, and had to jump it to get it going. All right, fine, let's go--except it then died on me at about 85mph on the freeway and I couldn't get it started again.

Well, I've got my buddy's truck today and today only, neither of my shops can see it for a week--and I really need to get it running. I figure since I know the r/r is bad, I can do that myself, but is there anything else I should be doing while I'm at it? Is the battery in bad shape after all this tomfoolery? (It seemed to charge fine off a trickle charger after I replaced the corroded connector, but that was a while and several jump starts ago, and it's hard telling how well it held it.) How about the stator?

Any advice is appreciated.

Cheers,

Aram
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-17-2007, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
 
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OK...

Well, I replaced the r/r and when I looked at the battery, it was low on electrolyte, with sediment/corrosion so I replaced it, too.Bike started great, better than it ever had before. Rode it for a while, rode fine.

The manual said to check the voltage as you revved the engine, that it should rise from battery voltage to 14-15. It wasn't rising, but the battery was only at about 12.5-13, so it was still charging. This doesn't mean anything, does it?

I also tried to do the r/r amperage test as described in the manual, but after hooking my meter up in series, I couldn't get any power through it to even light the indicator lights, let alone start the thing, so I skipped that one. Like I said, it started and ran fine.

Only thing is I'm now hearing a rattling noise coming from the bottom center of the bike somewhere, which quits once I get to lower-vibration higher revs. Can't quite pin it down, but I also can't imagine it's materially related to anything I've done here. Oh well; I'm sure it will make itself clear in time at the most inconvenient moment possible.

Cheers,

Aram
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-18-2007, 09:58 AM
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It's still charging, but charging low...check your connections again between the stator and the wiring harness and between the wiring harness and the r/r. You put in MF battery, right?

C
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-18-2007, 08:54 PM
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sounds like good excuse to switch to MF battery...

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-20-2007, 05:07 AM Thread Starter
 
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Yeah, I suppose it would be, but the place where the bike was was not near an Internet connection, and I didn't really read up on batteries until I had already returned from the shop, where the seemingly knowledgeable guy brandishing a large table of numbers convinced me that they didn't really make a MF in my size. Didn't sound quite right, but I needed to get her running, so I put a regular one in there. Seems to be working OK so far; I guess I'll just watch it carefully (and make damn sure the drainage tube doesn't come loose, since that seems to be part of what precipitated these recent problems, the r/r plug being at the tail end of a nice streak of corrosion leading from the battery spout.)

Or...

Bearing in mind that I'm pretty broke, would you still recommend a MF battery?

Also, on a largely unrelated note, do you think the stock exhaust pipes get hot enough to melt standard solder? The rattling noise is the little oval piece they put on there to keep you from scalding your ankle or whatever. Soldering it would seem to make sense, but I'm not exactly up on high-temp metal bonding.

Cheers,

Aram
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-20-2007, 05:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAKid View Post
Also, on a largely unrelated note, do you think the stock exhaust pipes get hot enough to melt standard solder? The rattling noise is the little oval piece they put on there to keep you from scalding your ankle or whatever. Soldering it would seem to make sense, but I'm not exactly up on high-temp metal bonding.
JB weld, or any hi-temp epoxy would probably work good.
Some solders melt at less than 200į (60/40 - tin/lead, most popular) while others around 450į (40/60 - tin/lead)


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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-23-2007, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ah, epoxy--what can't it bond?

Thanks, Tim. That rattle is not exactly a babe magnet at stoplights.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-23-2007, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAKid View Post

Also, on a largely unrelated note, do you think the stock exhaust pipes get hot enough to melt standard solder? The rattling noise is the little oval piece they put on there to keep you from scalding your ankle or whatever. Soldering it would seem to make sense, but I'm not exactly up on high-temp metal bonding.
"Little oval piece" doesn't sound right for a stock heat shield. Do you have a pic? Some of the replacement shields (that allow you to scald your ankle, just a hair bit slower than no shield at all) can be too large in diameter - you may just need to cinch 'er down a little more.

C
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