Headlight problem, ignition quirk, strange idle - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2014, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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Headlight problem, ignition quirk, strange idle

Hey alI.

Couple of issues, most of which are electrical. The Headlight is strange... It doesn't come on at all, although all the other lights do. At one point I did see the Headlight and the high beam indicator. Are there some circumstances I'm unaware of that determine whether the light is on?

Also, key turns fine, but I need a bit of a wiggle in the right position for it to start. Not a huge issue.

Idle is strange. Upon starting the bike, which is worrisome due to the time it takes to fire it up... The choke will let the bike Rev to 4k+ rpm, and I carefully bring it down. Then, bike will idle @ ~1100-1500rpm, but if I give it a little gas it almost stalls, seems to recognize the idle drop, and corrects itself.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2014, 01:45 PM
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Don't be offended, but is the bulb good? Also need more info on running issues.stock? Ear shave? Degoated?

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2014, 01:47 PM
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thea headlight is supposed to come on when the engine is running. IF the headlight is known to be good, but isn't turning on, try the Blue Wire Bypass.

Quote:
This can be bypassed to operate like an "other than US & Canada" VN750. (European models actually have a switch on the controls to turn the headlight on)
Look at the 8 pin connector going into the junction box. You will see that there are only 7 wires. Move the blue wire to the empty position and your headlight will come on when you turn the key on.
No more diodes, no more relay.
THis hapens so much, someone should take pictures and write up a sticky on it
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2014, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Stock bike, rotten goat, ****ed up rusty peeling kreem gas tank. I plan on doing lots of mods and taking tons of pictures. I'll do the Headlight one first
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2014, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimvulcanrider View Post
thea headlight is supposed to come on when the engine is running. IF the headlight is known to be good, but isn't turning on, try the Blue Wire Bypass.



THis hapens so much, someone should take pictures and write up a sticky on it
As a matter of fact I did that to Melissa

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lowered with progessive 412 10" shocks
rejetted for K/N Pods part#rc 2340
sportster seat

'I didn't lose my mind.i gave it away

BRING BACK WOLFIE."Peace and Carrots"RIP
"And I'm free...as a bird"John Lennon Free as a Bird
"I only carry when I have my pants on"Joe Robinson RIP aka Old Dog
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2014, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Hey alI.
Also, key turns fine, but I need a bit of a wiggle in the right position for it to start. Not a huge issue.
Ignition Switch Rebuild (copied from the yahoo group)
Quote:
REBUILDING THE IGNITION SWITCH ON A VN750

REASON:

My 1991 Vn750 developed a "dead spot" in the ignition switch
which would cause the dash lights to flicker or go out completely.
For two years I lived with this problem and temporarily solved
it each time it would occur by slightly turning the key towards
the off position. It worsened to the point where the defective switch
would cause the bike to begin stalling - something had to be done. A
new switch is about 70 bucks, plus I didn't want to have to
deal with having to re-key my bike.

TOOLS REQ'D:

10mm socket/drive or nut driver
13mm wrench
12mm wrench
#2 phillips screwdriver
medium sized jewelers scredriver
6mm Hex driver/hex key/allen wrench
contact cleaner
small needle nosed pliers


PROCEDURE:

1. Remove the windshield (if applicable).

2. Remove the headlight.

2a. Remove the 2 phillips head screws that hold the front portion
of the headlight to the bucket - the screws are located about 4 o'clock
and 8 o'clock (be sure not to mess with the adjusting screw located
around 8:30).

2b. Remove the headlight lens and trim ring from the bucket - pull
the bottom free which should allow you to "un-clip" the top portion.
Disconnect the three prong connector from the lightbulb and place
the lens assembly somewhere safe.

3b. Using the 12mm wrench on the nuts on the insides of the bucket,
remove the 10mm hex headed bots that secure the bucket to the ears.
Carefully allow the bucket to hang down from the wires.

3. Remove the instrument cluster/gages.

3a. Remove the 2 bolts (1 on either side) of the "lights cluster".

3b. carefully remove the gauges and cluster
(allow to dangle from the wires).

3c. Remove the black rubber boot from around the outside of the
ignition switch post.

4. Remove the switch assembly - there are two socket
head cap screws under the top fork clamp - after removing the
bolts you should be able to "fanagle" the switch out of the fork
clamp.

4a. ***UPDATE***
It has been brought to my attention that if the handlebars are turned to the full left position, it is much easier to remove the switch without "fanagling".

5. Remove the two brass colored phillips screws from the plastic
body of the switch. Separate the electric switch portion from
the mechanical portion.

6. Carefully snap the plastic cover off the back of the switch -
check each of the solders carefully to make sure none have broken free.

7. While holding the switch "circuit board side up" carefully pry the
plasic body away from the circuit board where the little tang locks the
two pieces together - CAREFUL! - AS YOU SEPARATE THE TWO PIECES BE
CERTAIN NOT TO TURN OVER THE SWITCH PORTION, THERE ARE SEVERAL SMALL
PIECES THAT COULD FALL OUT!!!

8. Take the switch portion (should now be free from the bike) to a
suitable location to work on it (ie. workbench).

9. One at a time, remove the contacts from the switch and slightly
stretch the compression spring open a little bit.

10. Use contact cleaner to clean each of the contact points as well
as the contact paths (on the circuit board).

REASSEMBLY:

1. Do everything you just did in the reverse order.

Hope this helps someone - kent4chaos
Quote:
Idle is strange. Upon starting the bike, which is worrisome due to the time it takes to fire it up... The choke will let the bike Rev to 4k+ rpm, and I carefully bring it down. Then, bike will idle @ ~1100-1500rpm, but if I give it a little gas it almost stalls, seems to recognize the idle drop, and corrects itself.
could be a small vacuum leak, or your idle is adjusted to high, so when you give it gas, you are really flooding out the engine.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2014, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry, need to clarify. Bike responds normally to throttle. Idle is at 1k, I can Rev normally, but idle returns to 100-400rpm. It then seems to 'recognize' this low idle, and bumps it up
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2014, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nadan8 View Post
Sorry, need to clarify. Bike responds normally to throttle. Idle is at 1k, I can Rev normally, but idle returns to 100-400rpm. It then seems to 'recognize' this low idle, and bumps it up
like i said vacuum leak, or too much fuel.. pull the plugs (all 4) to determine which way we need to look.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2014, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Didn't pull waste plugs, but regular plugs are dark chocolate/oil colored, no corrosion or pitting or other deterioration
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2014, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Will post pics when I pull them. Currently fabricating a two seater go kart and the missus only wants me on one project at a time. Good news though, just have to lengthen the pitman arm, fab the gas pedal, hook throttle up and finish steering and it's ready. Waiting for this nasty weather to go AWAY!
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