really need help!!! - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 06:29 AM Thread Starter
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really need help!!!

hello to all. i am a brand new member although i have used this site for a while now for information and ideas. ive realised now is the time i sign up and hopefully get the answers i want...anyway i have owned a 94 vn750 for a couple of years now, first year it ran really well with no problems and then suddenly out of the blue it stops working. im not even kidding around here when i say for a whole year me and my dad have been trying to figure out what is wrong with it using information from here and taking it to a number of local garages.

it started to play up at first with fuel and then eventually turned to something electrical. when you turn the bike on and twist the throttle it will get to about 3rpm and start to cough, splutter and sound like its misfiring or a cylinder is dead. at first we thought it was the carbs so i got them stripped and cleaned...that didnt work. next, replaced battery and plugs and wiring for plugs...worked a little better but for one day only. next, ordered a new cdi igniter as everyone on here seemed to say that could be the problem...only improved the popping and backfiring on the bike. and the last thing that has been done is a whole clean out of the ignition and wiring down to the loom...that still did nothing!

so you can probably understand when i say im extremely frustrated with this bike so i have come to the place i hopefully will find some answers from the fellow vn750 riders. if anybody has any other ideas to what could be causing this problem i would very much appreciate it as all i want to do is get back on the road and not be spending all my money on train tickets!
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 07:16 AM
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Hmmm my first thought was the ignitor box too...check your spark plugs and make sure they are properly gapped. My next guess would be an ignition coil.

There are far more talented people on here than me when it comes to electrical issues and I bet they will chime in too. Why don't you hop over to the new member forum and make an introduction so we know a little more about you. There might be a member close by why can lend a hand or something.

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 09:39 AM
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Don't be offended, but we've seen folks say they "cleaned their carbs" only to find out later they were the culprit. You could have a clog and just didn't discover it. Could be a tear or hole in the diaphragm.

If you take a spare spark plug and lay it on top if your cylinder and attach a plug wire you can see of you are getting a spark. Can also check each wire with a timing light.

Sputtering and misfiring sounds like a carb issue to me. Make sure you have clean fuel and make sure your float bowl height is right. Make sure your petcock is flowing fuel properly too..

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Last edited by Knifemaker; 02-10-2014 at 09:41 AM.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 10:39 AM
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Could also be a vacuum leak...

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 11:05 AM
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More info could be helpful. Does it idle solid?

I would probably hook an automotive timing light to a plug, point it at the shiny part of the tank. Wind it up until it has issues. Do one plug on each cylinder. See if you have fire when it breaks up.

The best quick way to tell lack of fuel issues is to add fuel to the airstream. Too much fuel should show symptoms such as black smoke, etc.

If it idles real well, probably not a vacuum problem, but they can do odd things.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifemaker View Post
Could be a tear or hole in the diaphragm.

If you take a spare spark plug and lay it on top if your cylinder and attach a plug wire you can see of you are getting a spark. Can also check each wire with a timing light.

Sputtering and misfiring sounds like a carb issue to me. Make sure you have clean fuel and make sure your float bowl height is right. Make sure your petcock is flowing fuel properly too..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris32250 View Post
Could also be a vacuum leak...
Good advise, I had carb issues that made it sputter like that. (stuck float)

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 01:03 PM
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The easy stuff to check:

1. That damn carb vent hose has done that to me. Make sure the hose going to the right 'ear' is in dead air.
2. Make sure the IGNITION SWITCH IS CLEAN under the keyhole (I can't scream that enough. It will cause you to run until the vibration cuts the connection. Sometimes in traffic!) Oh and sometimes the cup that the switch sits in doesn't stay attached very well. A zip tie can be used to clamp it together.
3. Check to make sure you have adequate compression. I think the numbers are between 120 and 150 PSI. The two cylinders should be within 10-15PSI.

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 04:10 PM
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My first thought is air intake or vacuum leak. But more info would be helpful.
I assume you mean you are only having problems over 3Krpms.
Assuming it is not shaved. Has it been coastered?
Guessing you had the carbs cleaned, not DIY.
I don't know the level of mechanic who did it, but these carbs are a PITA to get on and off, and not getting all of the boots back perfect or putting a small tear in one causing a leak would be my first thing to check, along with the air filters installed correctly. Mine had no filters installed at all when I got her. Spray some carb cleaner around all the boot ends at idle, if the engine ticks up a bit, that's your leak.
Let us know what you've tried already and these guys can narrow it down.
Also recommend coastering if you haven't. It's cheap and easy.
Good luck.


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carb rebuild
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goofyfoot2001 View Post
The easy stuff to check:

1. That damn carb vent hose has done that to me. Make sure the hose going to the right 'ear' is in dead air.
2. Make sure the IGNITION SWITCH IS CLEAN under the keyhole (I can't scream that enough. It will cause you to run until the vibration cuts the connection. Sometimes in traffic!) Oh and sometimes the cup that the switch sits in doesn't stay attached very well. A zip tie can be used to clamp it together.
3. Check to make sure you have adequate compression. I think the numbers are between 120 and 150 PSI. The two cylinders should be within 10-15PSI.
x2 - x3...... Greatest advice (at the moment) !

(pls disregard Helmet Safeties posted by Wolfie.....he is an Old schooler'... others have different common sense...(duh) not style orientated).


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-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
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Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
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Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 04:55 PM
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Question

x2 check petcock for good flow when vacuum is applied.

What happens if you pull the choke when it starts to die?

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