whats up with these R/R's readings off on new one.???? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-27-2007, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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whats up with these R/R's readings off on new one.????

Had my Bat die twice,checked everything out,alls good but the rr readings.
Ordered a new one from dennis kirk, checked readings on the new one and there
all off also. Can anyone tell me whats up with that? I did read someone say on here that they could never get a correct reading from an rr. Any input here??? Thanks, A confused biker.

Steve from Pittsburgh
2005 vn750
modified knifemaker driver boards
chrome levers, Shaved saddle
Ape manual CCT's, nylon saddle bags
engine mount covers, plexIII windshield
crash bar w/floor boards, air hawk pad
ear mod, rad cover/,w/ss mesh
chrome cable and wire covers
chrome anti-freeze cover
RR relocation,MF battery,drilled out
idle plugs,marbled
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-27-2007, 01:59 PM
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I had a very difficult time getting any kind of reading on my old r/r. I finally was able to get one of the connections to get a reading that was waaaay off, so I assumed that the r/r was the problem and I was right.

I didn't try testing the new r/r before I put it on the bike, so I can't say one way or the other on that. My suggestion would be to put her on and check the voltage across the battery with the bike off, with the bike at idle and then rev her up and see what you get then. If I remember right you should be in the 12.5 - 12.8 range with a fresh battery with the bike off. At idle you may see anywhere from 11.9ish to 12.3ish. As you rev the engine you'll see the voltage increase, mine went to 13.8 or somewhere in that range. You can check my numbers in the verses as I'm going from memory here, and it's not as good as it used to be.

If all of this looks to be good, take the bike for a spin and get her warmed up and check the voltage again across the battery. If it's still charging you probably fixed your problem.

I had a hard time diagnosing my problem due to being multimeter challenged, and I wasn't checking the voltage with the bike warm. My voltage readings were goos with a cold bike, but as it warmed up it stopped charging. It took me a few weeks to feel comfortable enough that I didn't check the voltage after every ride. It's been close to 3 months now with no problems.

Another good idea is to do the r/r relocation while you're messing with it if you haven't alread done it.

Good luck.

I smile 'cause I don't know what the h*ll is going on.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-27-2007, 02:11 PM
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bad readings on new R/R uh/oh

I also ordered a new r/r from dennis kirk. I should be receiving it sometime this week and I'll test it before installing it. By the way, I ordered Rick's r/r. You ?

-Luis Pereira
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-27-2007, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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I bought the electrix, and I did the relocation last year.Thx for the replies so far.
I have been trying to get awnsers through the tech department but havent heard back from them yet.If I get any I'll post um.

Steve from Pittsburgh
2005 vn750
modified knifemaker driver boards
chrome levers, Shaved saddle
Ape manual CCT's, nylon saddle bags
engine mount covers, plexIII windshield
crash bar w/floor boards, air hawk pad
ear mod, rad cover/,w/ss mesh
chrome cable and wire covers
chrome anti-freeze cover
RR relocation,MF battery,drilled out
idle plugs,marbled
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-27-2007, 05:29 PM
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If anyone's replacing their R/R, might as well leave the old one where it is and relocate the new one. Will save a ton of effort!
Unless of course, you've already relocated the old one!

Fergy
Kyle, TX VN750.com member #707 VROC#19556
2002 VN1500 Classic
Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-08-2007, 11:19 PM
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Got my Rick's r/r

I finally got my new Rick's r/r and performed the test on it before hooking it up. It failed the test. I get the same readings as I did with the original r/r.

This could mean my new r/r is also bad but I don't think so. There's a file on the VN750 Yahoo Group titled "world's best diode test", or something like that. It claims that performing the "standard" test with a digital multimeter will give bad results. The test to perform, according to this document, is the diode test.

I've read that some people fail the regular ohm test but pass the diode test, install the r/r and it works. I got bigger fish to fry right now with my stator replacement...when thats done I'll install my Rick's r/r and test the charging system.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 12:54 PM
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Is there a definitive way to test an R/R off the bike? I'm prepping for a stator replacement and just drained all the fluids from the bike so can't start it up right now.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mick.park View Post
Is there a definitive way to test an R/R off the bike? I'm prepping for a stator replacement and just drained all the fluids from the bike so can't start it up right now.
Yes, simple ohm tests. Should be a sticky post on it and it's in the download manual.

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 02:43 PM
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found it. thanks.
Section 15-18 or page 266
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 02:56 PM
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if you find it bad, do yourself a HUUUUUUGE favor, and instead of getting a 'stock' replacement (which in reality is a cheapo chinese junker), spend a few extra and upgrade to a MOSFET style. there are many kits available on ebay.

they are not a 'plug and play', but you seem willing to do work, and have a head for it, so it should be a no-brainer so to speak.

Shindengen MOSFET FH020AA Regulator Rectifier Kit Replaces FH012AA | eBay

thats the setup I bought, and I can say that vendor is very good, quick, and solves any issues even quicker. I had accidently ordered 2 of them, and they noticed it, contacted me, and corrected my mistake without issue. Also, had a couple questions about the item, and they were answered quickly and professionally

2005 VN750

Sold 11-27-17
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