Glorious Electrical Issues... - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
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post #1 of 186 (permalink) Old 12-07-2013, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Question Glorious Electrical Issues...

After being stranded twice last week with a dead battery and getting to practice my roll starts, I tested the electrical system this morning.... I followed the guides I found here, and these are my results using a digital multimeter, and having charged the battery outside the bike overnight until it read around 13.0v installed before starting the bike...

Here's my results:



Then I checked the voltage and continuity on the stator leads at 4000 RPMs...



It seems like the charging system is okay, even though I'd like the voltages to be above 14v... does this mean I should replace the R/R?

I guess I'm leaning towards a battery that won't hold charge, or something is draining the battery, or possibly the headlight relay is using too much juice...

If anyone is available to give me a quick phone call to help me figure this out, I'd really appreciate it... trying to get this fixed today... 678-577-7606

Some more photos...




I'm gonna cut those ugly bullet connectors off and solder the wires back together!

Thanks!!

------------------------------
GloryRider
Atlanta, GA
Current Ride: 1995 Vulcan 88 (1500A9)
Purchased Dec. 2014
approx. 6,800 miles

Previous Bike: 2000 VN750 "Glory"
With homemade stator
Details on stator build here

"Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul"

"You live more in 5 minutes on a bike like this going flat out than some people live in their lifetime." - Burt Munro

Last edited by GloryRider; 12-07-2013 at 02:15 PM. Reason: added missing info
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post #2 of 186 (permalink) Old 12-07-2013, 07:01 PM
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looking at those stats the stator VAC is too low on lead A1, A2 is ify, and lead 3 is right on the money. What is the resistance between Stator A1 to engine case ground and Stator A2 to engine case ground? Warm? Cold?
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post #3 of 186 (permalink) Old 12-07-2013, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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All the leads to engine ground were infinity warm and cold...

------------------------------
GloryRider
Atlanta, GA
Current Ride: 1995 Vulcan 88 (1500A9)
Purchased Dec. 2014
approx. 6,800 miles

Previous Bike: 2000 VN750 "Glory"
With homemade stator
Details on stator build here

"Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul"

"You live more in 5 minutes on a bike like this going flat out than some people live in their lifetime." - Burt Munro
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post #4 of 186 (permalink) Old 12-08-2013, 08:12 AM
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I don't think those AC volts are that bad, 6v between highest and lowest. All well above 50v each.

I wouldn't replace a regulator without also testing it first.

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post #5 of 186 (permalink) Old 12-08-2013, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GloryRider View Post
All the leads to engine ground were infinity warm and cold...
OL, or 0.0?
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post #6 of 186 (permalink) Old 12-08-2013, 01:18 PM
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your DC measurements, where they using both leads at the battery? or was your neg lead on a chassis ground?

reason I ask, if you have a crappy ground from battery to chassis, you will get bad readings at the battery if you have both leads there. Voltage drop on the battery ground can be significant (and is part of systems total voltage) if its crappy/dirty
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post #7 of 186 (permalink) Old 12-08-2013, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Slimvulcanrider, they were all OL...

teddy, I did the DC tests on both the battery leads like I show in the photo... should I do them again between positive battery and engine ground?

I agree Spockster... the manual says the alternator output is between 50-70vac, so I didn't feel like it was out of that range, and they were all pretty close to each other... plus, a rectifier should be able to normalize to 14-15v dc (according to manual, that's the charging system output range) with that amount of input... but I didn't see anything over 13.5v dc at the battery terminals even at 4000 rpms... with the headlight off!

Oh, and when I say headlight off, I pulled the headlight fuse from the junction box...

------------------------------
GloryRider
Atlanta, GA
Current Ride: 1995 Vulcan 88 (1500A9)
Purchased Dec. 2014
approx. 6,800 miles

Previous Bike: 2000 VN750 "Glory"
With homemade stator
Details on stator build here

"Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul"

"You live more in 5 minutes on a bike like this going flat out than some people live in their lifetime." - Burt Munro

Last edited by GloryRider; 12-08-2013 at 01:41 PM. Reason: more info added
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post #8 of 186 (permalink) Old 12-08-2013, 02:41 PM
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with the neg lead on engine or chassis ground, positive on battery, you will get the TOTAL output of the stator/reg.

if its much more than a couple 1/10ths of a volt difference between them, you have bad connections somewhere, either grounds, ground cables, or in the output wiring of the reg
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post #9 of 186 (permalink) Old 12-11-2013, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks FoolAmI for your generosity! He mailed me his r/r unit from his bike so I could test it out for a few days... It seems to be working better than mine, so it seems my r/r is not working properly... I ordered a new Shindengen FH020AA MOFSET R/R kit from ebay, and hopefully it'll be here soon...

------------------------------
GloryRider
Atlanta, GA
Current Ride: 1995 Vulcan 88 (1500A9)
Purchased Dec. 2014
approx. 6,800 miles

Previous Bike: 2000 VN750 "Glory"
With homemade stator
Details on stator build here

"Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul"

"You live more in 5 minutes on a bike like this going flat out than some people live in their lifetime." - Burt Munro
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post #10 of 186 (permalink) Old 12-12-2013, 02:23 AM
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glad you got it figured out
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