Inside a Capacitor Discharge Ignition CDI - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Inside a Capacitor Discharge Ignition CDI

So the last few weeks I have been dealing with no start issues. I did the routine checks, fuses, air/fuel/spark. Found I wasn't getting spark, thought it was coils... Talked to a local used bike parts merchant who seems to know his stuff and he recommended the CDI may have blown. My stator has died a long time ago, and I've not had the time to fix it and its at least $500 in labor before parts for the stealership to do it. Anyways I have been using the charger on it usually on the 2 amp float charge. One morning I got impatient and put on the 50amp START mode and obviously that was a bad choice lol. So I got the coil tested and its still got continuity so I've got another CDI coming. Took the old one off today and here's some cool pics. I've seen on a thread or two that getting in to these is a pain so I naturally messed with it. I broke it in the process, big surprise, but with very gentle touch and a more useful tool than a screwdriver you could try to fix it yourself.
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1990 VN750 Red and Black
Bought on 6/30/2012 w/ 13,230 miles
At ~20,000
To Do List: Paint Front Rim, Acct- mcct mod

Done: Adjusted Float Bowls, R/R Replace and Relocate, Coastered, Ear Shave, Front/Rear Tire Change, Replaced Final Gear Seals, Splines Lubed, Relay Coil Mod, Replaced Fork Seals, Rebuilt Starter
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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On a side note. After taking off the cdi, I looked at the fuse on my coil wiring mod. And I blew that 15 amp fuse, I think that might be why it's not starting... Maybe I didn't need a new CDI after all haha

1990 VN750 Red and Black
Bought on 6/30/2012 w/ 13,230 miles
At ~20,000
To Do List: Paint Front Rim, Acct- mcct mod

Done: Adjusted Float Bowls, R/R Replace and Relocate, Coastered, Ear Shave, Front/Rear Tire Change, Replaced Final Gear Seals, Splines Lubed, Relay Coil Mod, Replaced Fork Seals, Rebuilt Starter
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013, 09:15 PM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stVulcan View Post
On a side note. After taking off the cdi, I looked at the fuse on my coil wiring mod. And I blew that 15 amp fuse, I think that might be why it's not starting... Maybe I didn't need a new CDI after all haha
Ouch !

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013, 09:59 PM
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Oh that sucks, finding the fuse after opening the unit. Still, pretty cool looking with all those resisters and diodes.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-02-2013, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah its very confusing, glad I didn't have to design how it works lol. It's ok Ive found a used one on ebay for $60 shipped. Normally they are upwards of $100-$130 used

1990 VN750 Red and Black
Bought on 6/30/2012 w/ 13,230 miles
At ~20,000
To Do List: Paint Front Rim, Acct- mcct mod

Done: Adjusted Float Bowls, R/R Replace and Relocate, Coastered, Ear Shave, Front/Rear Tire Change, Replaced Final Gear Seals, Splines Lubed, Relay Coil Mod, Replaced Fork Seals, Rebuilt Starter
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-02-2013, 11:53 AM
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I would have sold you my spare for less than that

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-02-2013, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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I think I bought a windshield from you last year lol. I was thinking about jumping back on here to get some help before I took things off but hindsight is 20/20

1990 VN750 Red and Black
Bought on 6/30/2012 w/ 13,230 miles
At ~20,000
To Do List: Paint Front Rim, Acct- mcct mod

Done: Adjusted Float Bowls, R/R Replace and Relocate, Coastered, Ear Shave, Front/Rear Tire Change, Replaced Final Gear Seals, Splines Lubed, Relay Coil Mod, Replaced Fork Seals, Rebuilt Starter
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-02-2013, 03:40 PM
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I for one would really love to know if your CDI was in fact bad or not.

These rarely fail so it would be nice to document it if it is bad.

Let us know please.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-02-2013, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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I'd like to know the same kc. However, when I took it out of the case, I broke off the corners of the electrical board. So I don't think testing it at this point would be useful. I've heard they expand when broken, saw wolfie say that on a thread. Mine wasn't bloated, looked normal. I'm thinkin I just blew the relay fuse and thus no spark was getting out.

1990 VN750 Red and Black
Bought on 6/30/2012 w/ 13,230 miles
At ~20,000
To Do List: Paint Front Rim, Acct- mcct mod

Done: Adjusted Float Bowls, R/R Replace and Relocate, Coastered, Ear Shave, Front/Rear Tire Change, Replaced Final Gear Seals, Splines Lubed, Relay Coil Mod, Replaced Fork Seals, Rebuilt Starter
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-03-2013, 02:11 PM
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I have never heard of one failing let alone that they expand.
I guess if it got hot the plastic casing might deform, but other than some capacitors in there, I don't see much that could swell or go bad.

It sucks that the PCB got damaged, because it would work without the plastic casing. Can you physically see any broken traces on the board, or are the corners all solid copper ground planes? If just the corners of the ground plane is damaged, I bet it still works



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Originally Posted by 1stVulcan View Post
I'd like to know the same kc. However, when I took it out of the case, I broke off the corners of the electrical board. So I don't think testing it at this point would be useful. I've heard they expand when broken, saw wolfie say that on a thread. Mine wasn't bloated, looked normal. I'm thinkin I just blew the relay fuse and thus no spark was getting out.
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