Headlight/Starter Issue - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 02:32 AM Thread Starter
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Headlight/Starter Issue

Hello, so I just got a 1986 vn750 and overall its in pretty good shape. It has a few problems: the starter makes a clicking noise, but wont start the bike and the headlight doesn't turn on. The headlight did actually work for a little, but now it won't. I tested at the plug and all the resistance looked ok I think the highest resistance was like 60 something ohms(or maybe 60,000 now that i think about it. I'm not quite sure.) When I tried measuring voltage I didn't really get anything. When i tested between a blue/white wire and a yellow/black wire i got the full voltage of the battery(those two just happened to have free plugs inside the headlamp case). As for the starter it worked earlier, but now it just makes a clicking noise. I'm currently charging the battery to try again tomorrow and I'll update this if anything changes. If anyone could give me some help of any sort I would really appreciate it.

Thank you,
Clayton
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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 06:27 AM
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Don't get to distraught about he headlight just yet. It runs off a trigger wire from the stator which then actuates the relay that turns on the headlight once the motor has started running.

So, no run, no light.

Now, the starter. They can fail at any time. Just like a cars. First
What type of battery is in your bike?
Does it have a full charge? If it does, here's something to try.
I'm pretty sure the clicking is the solinoid trying to work but, if you
jump a screwdriver across the terminals of the solinoid, it should try to start if the starters
Good.

If that fails, the starter is probably shot. Rebuild kits on eBay are around
$30 & aren't to bad to do.

Last edited by kanuck69; 11-22-2013 at 06:49 AM.
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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick response. I guess I should have waited before posting, but after charging the battery it starts up fine and the headlight comes on. The actual issue is that it isn't charging while running. I guess that means the stator needs replacing? Does anyone know how much it would cost a shop to do it? Or is that something I could probably do myself? I'm not a bike expert, but I am pretty handy with tools and I learn pretty quick. I have seen some other posts on here about this issue, but I don't know what difficulty level these things are. Thank you.

Update:

So I decided to go ahead with the stator mod I found on here(cutting out the hole etc.) One question I have for someone is when unscrewing the bolts holding the stator cover on there are these little red things with o rings on them. What are these? Do I need to replace them when I reinstall the stator cover? And Where would I get them? Thank you again.

Last edited by cmat1120; 11-22-2013 at 10:05 AM.
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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 11:54 AM
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I would do all the work myself, wait I already do that lol, but seriously. Get a TPE Stator and a MOFSET R/R along with an AGM Battery and you shouldn't have to touch your charging system for a few years.

TPE Stator- http://www.tpe-usa.com/
MOFSET R/R conversion - walk through Whole Conversion Kit $130
AMG Batteries- YTX14AHL-BS
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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 12:04 PM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
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Quote:
Update:

So I decided to go ahead with the stator mod I found on here(cutting out the hole etc.) One question I have for someone is when unscrewing the bolts holding the stator cover on there are these little red things with o rings on them. What are these? Do I need to replace them when I reinstall the stator cover? And Where would I get them? Thank you again.
How many miles on the bike ?
If pulling the cover to replace Stator & applying The Mod, I would replace the Vibration Dampers...$40.00 for all six. (Note: The Vibration Cam Gear is mounted with a Left-threaded bolt !)
My Vibration Dampers went out at 13 K miles. Total repair almost $800 !

hope this helps


EDIT: pics of damage are in my Avatar Photo Albums

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!

Last edited by WilliamTech; 11-22-2013 at 01:01 PM.
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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Well the bike has 37k miles so I'll look into those vibration dampers. The one issue I have with going forward with this and applying the mod is I can't figure out how I'm going to cut out that circle. Iv'e used dremels before and I don't know how I'd cut out a circle(curves) in metal that thick with a cut off wheel. Some other concerns I have are: how do I keep metal shavings out and minimize risk of fire. How long would it take two people to replace the stator the long way(dropping engine)?
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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 12:20 PM
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The cutoff wheel is not the right tool for the job. you need a Dremel 561 1/8 in. Multi-Purpose Cutting Bit and a Dremel 678-01 Circle Cutter and Straight Edge Guide to cut out the cover, as for the plate, get a hold of GC-extreme he has a few left.
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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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slimvulcanrider, THANK YOU! I knew about those bits, but I wasn't sure that was the right tool. So it really isn't that hard to cut then is it? I was actually really scared about this, but I think I could definitely do it with a bit like that.(Just would take some patience).
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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 12:47 PM
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take your time, use the highest speed possible, and use a cutting oil. personally though I would pull the engine (or at least tilt it) so I could get the cover all the way off the bike, and eliminate the chance of getting shavings inside the engine.
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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 12:59 PM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimvulcanrider View Post
take your time, use the highest speed possible, and use a cutting oil. personally though I would pull the engine (or at least tilt it) so I could get the cover all the way off the bike, and eliminate the chance of getting shavings inside the engine.
...with cover off, the LH threaded bolt is very accessible for Vibration Damper replacement.

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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