Possible Regulator/Stator issue? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-12-2013, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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Possible Regulator/Stator issue?

Hello all. New to the motorcycle forum and riding.

I have a 1990 Kawasaki VN750. A few months ago, my bike was in the shop.(I purchased it on Craigslist,it needed a lot of work done to it). Stator,regulator, ignition coils were changed. Carbs were cleaned/synced. Bike was gone through.

During a rainstorm, I did end up slipping off the bike at low speeds. It's been parked in my driveway for awhile now.

The symptom I'm trying to fix seems to be the connector from the regulator seems to heat up, along with the wires on both sides of the connector. I did just replace the wiring harness, just wanted some input on what I should look for/what could be the cause of the connector melting? Haven't had to charge the battery in over two months, no problems starting, after about 3-4 minutes of choke being on, wires start to heat up. I've checked the grounds that I know of and cleaned them up.

Any ideas? I'm going crazy. I miss riding.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-13-2013, 03:08 AM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisz602 View Post
Hello all. New to the motorcycle forum and riding.

I have a 1990 Kawasaki VN750. A few months ago, my bike was in the shop.(I purchased it on Craigslist,it needed a lot of work done to it). Stator,regulator, ignition coils were changed. Carbs were cleaned/synced. Bike was gone through.

During a rainstorm, I did end up slipping off the bike at low speeds. It's been parked in my driveway for awhile now.

The symptom I'm trying to fix seems to be the connector from the regulator seems to heat up, along with the wires on both sides of the connector. I did just replace the wiring harness, just wanted some input on what I should look for/what could be the cause of the connector melting? Haven't had to charge the battery in over two months, no problems starting, after about 3-4 minutes of choke being on, wires start to heat up. I've checked the grounds that I know of and cleaned them up.

Any ideas? I'm going crazy. I miss riding.
Poor/Bad connections (connector) between Stator output & R/R will cause increased Amps (heat), and thus creating xtra load on the R/R... often times burning R/R out.
The verses, if read, recommends all R/R connections be soldereds for fail-proof electrical connections.

I seldom need to utilize the Ch oak, but when I do = less than a minute. (just sayin')

WilliamTech

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!

Last edited by WilliamTech; 10-13-2013 at 03:11 AM.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-13-2013, 06:39 AM Thread Starter
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So I shall look into new connector points,and if that doesn't seem to work, my other options would be to check the r/r? Do you recommend using the dielectric grease on the points as well? Thank you for your response.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-13-2013, 06:46 AM Thread Starter
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This picture attached was the connector on the old wiring harness before I replaced it. The wires seemed brittle and fragile when it was warm.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-13-2013, 08:32 AM
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If you still have the stock exhaust on, the heat from the goat's belly doesn't help either. You can relocate the R/R or remove the goats belly.

"Show me a man who makes no mistakes, and I'll show you a man who doesn't do things." Theodore Roosevelt."

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Current projects - 1986 VN750 & 1988 EL250
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-13-2013, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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How would I go about doing that? Right now, it's mounted under the battery. I've read a post about using bicycle clamps. Also, what is the 'Goats belly?'
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-13-2013, 11:02 AM
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from the picture you just posted, that is normal. Not that normal is right. the problem is the location of the R/R battery acid and road grime make for corroded connections, which in turn make for more resistance in the wires, which then heats every thing up.

The Goats Belly is the exhaust crossover/expansion chamber under neath the bike in front of the center stand.

her is how one member moved his R/R

but this is the usual way and done very easily
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-13-2013, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for your reply,Slim. After moving the R/R, is there a further way to test it using a cheap voltmeter? I have a basic one from Harbour Freight, and I also have the repair manual.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-13-2013, 06:22 PM
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yes you can test the r/r off the bike, in fact that is the only test, besides an engine running test to make sure its working. Bench test procedures can be found in the repair manual, But I will also post them bellow.

R/R Bench Test
A1-A2__________Ω ∞
A1-A3__________Ω ∞
A1-Ground______Ω ∞
A1-Bat_________Ω 200~600 Ω
A1-M__________Ω ∞
A2-A1_________Ω ∞
A2-A3_________Ω ∞
A2-Ground_____Ω ∞
A2-Bat_________Ω 200~600
ΩA2-M__________Ω ∞
A3-A1_________Ω ∞
A3-A2_________Ω ∞
A3-Ground_____Ω ∞
A3-Bat________Ω 200~600 Ω
A3-M_________Ω ∞
Bat-m_________Ω ∞
Bat-G_________Ω ∞
Bat- A1,A2,AA3 _____Ω ∞
M-Bat________Ω 10000Ω~∞
M-Ground____Ω 10000Ω~∞
M-A1,A2,A3____Ω 10000Ω~∞
Ground-Bat____Ω 400-2000Ω
Ground-M_____Ω 1000-5000Ω
Ground to A1,A2,A3____Ω 200~600Ω

for a complete charging system Troubleshooting guide, refer to HERE
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