Charging Problem - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-24-2007, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
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Charging Problem

I have a '00 vulcan with ~17,500 miles. I am having problems with the charging system (big surprise huh?). At idle I'm getting about 13 volts checking with a digital multimeter across the battery terminals, it tops out a little over 14.5 @ ~ 4000 rpm's. Sounds good right?

Here's the problem, I check everything after a 20 minute or so ride and the voltage is 12.3 at best, sometimes dropping to 11.95. Rpm does not affect the voltage. I disconnected the wires from the r/r and checked the yellow wires with the multimeter on AC setting and am getting a reading of 40 to 60 (from 2500 to 4000 rpm) which makes me think that the stator is fine. Does this sound like the r/r is bad or could it be a bad connection somewhere? I've checked the ground connection from the battery and it seems fine, the connections at the battery itself are good and tight also. It does not make sense to me that I'm only seeing problems after warming up the bike. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-24-2007, 10:17 AM
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You may want to do a stator wire (ohms) test on the warmed up bike
Unplug and test the three yellow stator wires;
they should be .34 to .52 ohms between any
combination of the yellow wires, with no shorts to
ground.
If it is a stator going bad, I think you may find you have a short to ground on one of the three wires.
That is how I found mine. Bike would charge fine until it got warmed up. All the tests were good or a little off on a cold bike, but a different story once it was warmed up (usually about 5 miles down the road)

As far as the R/R test it should be as follows
Quoted from the manual as much as possible:

Regulator/Rectifier Inspection

Remove the left side cover.
Pull out the connector.
Be sure to set the hand tester to the 100 ohm range and zero
the meter(Not necessary on a digital meter)
Check the resistance between the regulator/rectifier terminals
as follows(there is a chart and picture in the manual which I
cannot reproduce right now but I will try to put it in words
for you)

A1 A2 A3 All Alternator Terminals
--- --- ---
Connector with pins facing
you and notch at bottom
--- --- ---
G M B G = Ground M = Monitor B = Battery

--|__|--

(Hope that came across right)


Measure B to M - should read infinity
Measure B to G - should read infinity
Measure B to A1, A2, A3 - should read infinity
Measure M to B - should read > 10K ohm
Measure M to G - should read > 10K ohm
Measure M to A1, A2, A3 - should read > 10K ohm
Measure G to B - should read between 0.4 to 2K ohm
Measure G to M - should read between 1 to 5K ohm
Measure G to A1, A2, A3 - should read 0.2 to 0.6K ohm(200 to 600 ohm)
Measure A1, A2, A3 to B - should read 0.2 to 0.6K ohm(200 to 600 ohm)
Measure A1, A2, A3 to M - should read infinity
Measure A1, A2, A3 to G - should read infinity

If there is more resistance than the specified value, the unit has an
open lead and must be replaced. Much less than this resistance means
the unit is shorted, and must be replaced.

Hope this helps someone out there.

Dan Morgan
2K VN750
VROC #9566
Altus, OK

If both of these check out ok then it could be a short somewhere else. Under the seat or along the front neck areas are usually prime suspect areas since wires tend to rub a bit there.

Hate to sound pessimistic but.. my stator on my 2000 shorted to ground at about the same mileage.

Dianna
Conway, AR
Patriot Guard Rider
2000 VN750 Sere (Serendipity)
1990 GL1500 (Ole Blue)
1986 VN750 EVie (project bike, heavy custom)
VROC # 11628 / 25000-H
ARVROC # 12 Coordinator and Crowd Control
OKVROC # 18 (H)
TNVROC # 45 (H)
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-24-2007, 10:29 AM
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Dianna and I both had the same problem. Little or no stator output when the thing got hot. Mine was bad right off the show room floor. Drove me nuts. (If I knew then what I know now...) Point is, you have to perform the tests after the bike gets up to operating temperature. Seems weird, but it's true.

'04 750A- and loving it!
VROC 13864
Using a Purlator One PL14610
"Sixth gear? I don't need no stinkin sixth gear!"
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-24-2007, 10:33 AM
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http://www.electrosport.com/Images/fault_finding.pdf

Check this site out and you'll be led in the right direction.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-24-2007, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Dianna, I found the r/r test procedure in the verses, but I'm multimeter challenged.

I've been able to figure out the AC and DC settings, but the resistance still baffles me. I was hoping that the AC readings from the stator (yellow wires) once the bike warms up was a good sign. The settings on my meter (digital electro-tek) are 20M, 2M, 200K, 20K, 2K and 200 w/ some sort of noise looking symbol. Which setting should I put the meter on to get an accurate resistance reading.

Will I need to test the r/r with the bike hot or can that be done cold?
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-24-2007, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigT View Post
Thanks Dianna, I found the r/r test procedure in the verses, but I'm multimeter challenged.

I've been able to figure out the AC and DC settings, but the resistance still baffles me. I was hoping that the AC readings from the stator (yellow wires) once the bike warms up was a good sign. The settings on my meter (digital electro-tek) are 20M, 2M, 200K, 20K, 2K and 200 w/ some sort of noise looking symbol. Which setting should I put the meter on to get an accurate resistance reading.

Will I need to test the r/r with the bike hot or can that be done cold?
Looks like there are lots of members of the MC club (multimeterly challenged) - welcome! The ohms (resistance) symbol is an omega (looks like a hot air balloon with two little arms coming off the bottom - when this symbol is at its complete bow , that's what it looks like); I tihnk you can put your multimeter on "automatic" and it should find the right range (someone correct me on that if I'm wrong), although to test the stator, you're looking at less than 1 ohm resistance (so you want a low reading).

The Kaw repair manual says to test the stator, set the meter to x1 omega. FOr the r/r, set the tester to the 100 omega range.

C

Last edited by Crobins365; 04-24-2007 at 11:19 AM. Reason: Looked up Kaw specs
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-24-2007, 01:10 PM
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My money says your stator is toast.

Need to check the dc resistance of each yellow wire to ground. Should be infinite hot or cold.

Mine read the same as yours measuring the voltage at the yellow leads while running, still had bad stator.

If you can tell us make/model of your meter, we can tell you how to set it in order to make the measurement.

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-24-2007, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93VN750 View Post
My money says your stator is toast.

Need to check the dc resistance of each yellow wire to ground. Should be infinite hot or cold.

Mine read the same as yours measuring the voltage at the yellow leads while running, still had bad stator.

If you can tell us make/model of your meter, we can tell you how to set it in order to make the measurement.

Jon
It's an electro-tek digital multimeter from wal-mart with the resistance settings of 20M, 2M, 200K, 20K and 2K. There's also a 200 with an audio symbol next to it on the resistance settings. There's no model number on the meter, so I'm not sure what the model # is.

I hope that you're wrong, but I'd just like to know one way or the other. This is driving me crazy.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-24-2007, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigT View Post
It's an electro-tek digital multimeter from wal-mart with the resistance settings of 20M, 2M, 200K, 20K and 2K. There's also a 200 with an audio symbol next to it on the resistance settings. There's no model number on the meter, so I'm not sure what the model # is.

I hope that you're wrong, but I'd just like to know one way or the other. This is driving me crazy.
Basically if you set it on the 20M scale, it should show about the same reading as when you just have the two leads in free air. That's infinite.

If you get any solid number from any yellow lead to ground, you found your problem.

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-24-2007, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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I'll give it a shot when I get home from work and see what I can come up with.

Thanks for your help.

Tony
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