A Reason why to use proper bulbs - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-03-2013, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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A Reason why to use proper bulbs

When I got my 2002 the license plate bulb didn't work. I noticed the housing was a little deformed, so I finally got around to fixing it today with a new housing I had and I found out why it melted. The PO used a 12v 23w bulb and it should have been only 8 watts. So use the proper bulbs.


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Last edited by shark88; 08-03-2013 at 09:02 PM.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-03-2013, 09:15 PM
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Agreed but it looks cool when the little flames are coming off the back as you are riding. lol I would suggest looking at all the other lenses to see if there is any deformation or discoloration before you have to buy more.

and always remember, "Ride until you rot!"
**Really not sure if the Big "C" is back right now
but having to face the fact that this is a lifetime routine
going forward. Five operations done and it still continues.

Tom
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 08:24 AM
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The oem bulb is always on and draws about .66 amps. I use a 1156 LED bulb for the license plate bulb and draw .03 amps. Every amp you can save on our bikes is worth it.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 08:35 AM
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i am pretty sure the original owner was not trying to over illuminate his license plate, i bet he went to an auto store, showed them the bulb, the idiot behind the counter said, oh we got that, and gave him the wrong bulb. I have no faith in anybody any more.

But thanks for the post, it just goes to show you what 3x the wattage will do!

kenny

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 10:05 AM
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I still like the small flames coming out when it over heats and the lens begins to burn. (lol) Not sure if the original owner would not have gone into Wallyworld and just picked up the first bulb that looked to be the right size and socket tab configuration. If you are unwilling to check the numbers on the replacement you usually also go for the cheap stuff. At least it is fixed now without too much of a problem and he had a new housing and lens already.

and always remember, "Ride until you rot!"
**Really not sure if the Big "C" is back right now
but having to face the fact that this is a lifetime routine
going forward. Five operations done and it still continues.

Tom
Vulcan 2000
New ride: 2009 Victory Vision Arlen Ness Signature Series
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JM2001 View Post
The oem bulb is always on and draws about .66 amps. I use a 1156 LED bulb for the license plate bulb and draw .03 amps. Every amp you can save on our bikes is worth it.
You may be correct, but I am not sure I understand. As I understand it the alternator stator puts out maximum output all the time, and the regulator holds the voltage at ~13.5 Volts DC The excess is shunted to ground by the regulator and produces heat.
One could argue that every bit of power you save is going into work for the regulator and that the best scenario would be to load the system such that the stator was running at just below the maximum needed to hold regulated output thus minimising the power to be dissipated by the regulator. To put it another way, the stator is producing full power all the time and that power is shared by dissipation due to the regulator and consumption by the electrical system. As long as you do not draw more than the regulator is dissipating to regulate, if you try to draw more then you may increase the load on the stator. I think, but I may be wrong.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 03:40 PM
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You are correct Gibo. That is why we recommend swapping to the MOFSET R/R

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-05-2013, 07:09 AM
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Thanks for the confirmation. My '95 VN700 would appear to still be running on the original reg/rec. Fingers crossed, although I have quite a number of them that I got for 5-00 each when I was building the Norton. Do the MOSFET ones still shunt the excess to ground and is the reliability due to their inherent robustness in terms of transients and heat ?

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-05-2013, 10:41 AM
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Yes MOSFET R/Rs still shunt to ground, but they do it more efficiently. The MOFSET Bridges are designed to handle both low amp draw and high amp draw better than the standard shunt type R/R. The biggest advantage is they produce a full 14.5 volts through the whole RPM range delivering full amperage when the system needs it most like at a traffic light in a hot day when the cooling fan is kicked on and brake light is activated.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-05-2013, 01:32 PM
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All understood, many thanks.

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