odd dying problem - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-01-2013, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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odd dying problem

Surely someones experienced this, got the wiring finished for the stator and new regulator and harness. starting great charging great, went to take it for a ride turned the handlebars to the right, it died, brake lights were still on dash light came on, but it wouldn't crank. turned the wheel straight and it cranked, and sometimes it would require turning the key off then back on to get it to crank again. Even wiggled the wires from the right side kill switch going into the frame a couple of times and got it to die. but not every time. Well looks like we are going to rewire the front end now, Anyone else experience this is it a known problem.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-02-2013, 03:57 AM
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the red connector under the left hand neck cover is getting pulled tight when you are turning the handlebars to the right.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-02-2013, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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its possible, although it died going straight a couple of times yesterday, never lost tail lights and the oil light came on when it died, as well as neutral light when shifted in gear. played with the wire coming out of the right kill switch pulling it from around the neck area and got it to die a couple of times{but not always} and when it did die it would not crank at that time but noticed also turning the key on and off it would crank, making me wonder if its more of an intermittent power supply to the kill switch and starter button or possibly a bad kill switch. although hadn't experienced this before. but did have problems restarting the bike when it was hot. turn off key give it a few minutes and it would finally start up, but thinking it was the ignition switch and the coil relay mod helped this. but even then it would still crank, which tells me there was some power there. it didn't do this problem till after the coil relay mod, that I had ever experienced, Ill check the connector though, planned on pulling the tank back off anyway so I could wire up the digital volt meter. I guess worse came to worse I could jump the ry wire over to the tail light circuit. if it is in the ignition switch to get him by till he can order a new switch, if that is the problem. well back to wiring lol, only on the front now though.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-02-2013, 07:20 AM Thread Starter
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do have a question on the wiring diagram, The white wires going to the ignition switch are obviously power, notice most of the wires coming out on the diagram go directly to the item they run as well as jump over to the fuse box. is this a wiring diagram error, considering most items go through the fuse box and back to the item. Going to check all the fuses in the box today and see if they are all main power or ignition power. Now I want to know how everything ticks on this bike.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-02-2013, 07:57 AM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artstoy View Post
its possible, although it died going straight a couple of times yesterday, never lost tail lights and the oil light came on when it died, as well as neutral light when shifted in gear. played with the wire coming out of the right kill switch pulling it from around the neck area and got it to die a couple of times{but not always} and when it did die it would not crank at that time but noticed also turning the key on and off it would crank, making me wonder if its more of an intermittent power supply to the kill switch and starter button or possibly a bad kill switch. although hadn't experienced this before. but did have problems restarting the bike when it was hot. turn off key give it a few minutes and it would finally start up, but thinking it was the ignition switch and the coil relay mod helped this. but even then it would still crank, which tells me there was some power there. it didn't do this problem till after the coil relay mod, that I had ever experienced, Ill check the connector though, planned on pulling the tank back off anyway so I could wire up the digital volt meter. I guess worse came to worse I could jump the ry wire over to the tail light circuit. if it is in the ignition switch to get him by till he can order a new switch, if that is the problem. well back to wiring lol, only on the front now though.
Yeah, cleaning the connectors & contacts in that area is on my To-Do list, as I would like to avoid such problems.
There are threads on "Ignition Puck" (switch) Disassembly -contact cleaning...probly what's needed here.

Good luck

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-02-2013, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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lol couldn't sleep, After years of wrenching and building race bikes for my sons, My theory on if they get passed or make mistakes in a race its on them, if the bike fails its on me. Couldn't sleep, went out checked connections, Apparently someone else has been in here lol. Pulled the ignition electrical connector while running the bike and it would die, Removed headlight to access, pulled off the electrical connection from the switch, disassembled only to find the little detent ball that also acts as a pressure point for the other side on the contacts is gone, someones removed it or it never got installed from the factory. It just so happens to be the main connection to the red wire as well which feeds the coils and igniter, speaking of which when you do the coil mod according to the wiring schematic here you leave the igniter still connected to the main coil harness so iyt doesn't feed off the relay mod as well. not sure its a big deal in this situation beings I have a definite contact issue. But considering putting in a failsafe system with a switch that also drives the relay mod as well should the ignition switch leave you stranded so will be adding the igniter wire to the relay and setting up a toggle switch to run the relay contact in case of an ignition failure on the road, probably wire in a fail safe light so it is on when the switch is on as well and install it in the dash so you wont leave it on in case of turning it on accidentally or if you have to use it
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-02-2013, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artstoy View Post
lol couldn't sleep, After years of wrenching and building race bikes for my sons, My theory on if they get passed or make mistakes in a race its on them, if the bike fails its on me. Couldn't sleep, went out checked connections, Apparently someone else has been in here lol. Pulled the ignition electrical connector while running the bike and it would die, Removed headlight to access, pulled off the electrical connection from the switch, disassembled only to find the little detent ball that also acts as a pressure point for the other side on the contacts is gone, someones removed it or it never got installed from the factory. It just so happens to be the main connection to the red wire as well which feeds the coils and igniter, speaking of which when you do the coil mod according to the wiring schematic here you leave the igniter still connected to the main coil harness so iyt doesn't feed off the relay mod as well. not sure its a big deal in this situation beings I have a definite contact issue. But considering putting in a failsafe system with a switch that also drives the relay mod as well should the ignition switch leave you stranded so will be adding the igniter wire to the relay and setting up a toggle switch to run the relay contact in case of an ignition failure on the road, probably wire in a fail safe light so it is on when the switch is on as well and install it in the dash so you wont leave it on in case of turning it on accidentally or if you have to use it
Will that completely do away with the Key Ignition Lock for security ?

WilliamTech

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-02-2013, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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would actually use both would have to hide the switch in an unobscure place, although if you drop power in the ignition switch circuit on the brown wire, charging system may not work with the brown wire not providing power to it. unless you had wired the mosfet regulator into your system. Found a gm ignition switch at the shop and diassembled it has several springs and balls in it, goin to check tonight if they are similar. may plastic weld it together with plastic epoxy to hold it tight with no flex. and see what happens. you could always use a plug in connector behind a side cover as a back up power source for you bike. just plug it together if ya had an issue and unplug it when its resolved. just make sure you add the power wire from your igniter to your coil relay mod.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-02-2013, 10:12 AM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artstoy View Post
would actually use both would have to hide the switch in an unobscure place, although if you drop power in the ignition switch circuit on the brown wire, charging system may not work with the brown wire not providing power to it. unless you had wired the mosfet regulator into your system. Found a gm ignition switch at the shop and diassembled it has several springs and balls in it, goin to check tonight if they are similar. may plastic weld it together with plastic epoxy to hold it tight with no flex. and see what happens. you could always use a plug in connector behind a side cover as a back up power source for you bike. just plug it together if ya had an issue and unplug it when its resolved. just make sure you add the power wire from your igniter to your coil relay mod.
smart way to do it !

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-02-2013, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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Well ignition switch retrofitted to gm springs just a tad bit smaller around and a hair taller, but a little stiffer.And a new detent ball bearing, some dielectric grease on the contact plate after polishing it off and a little white grease on the underside for the ball bearing, thing turns to a solid click now, feels like a new one. Everythings working, test now to finish wiring up the mini voltmeter and give her another go. looking good at this point.anything else on this electric system lol.
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