charging systems on these little bikes - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-31-2013, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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charging systems on these little bikes

After spending the afternoon with the bike, my ohm meter, soldering gun and torch and an assortment of wire, Feel I have a feel for the system. From my viewpoint some faulty connectors and the ignition switch seem to be a huge issue with these. Did the coil mod but with a twist, redid the main power supply to the fuse box, doing away with the bullet connector, and soldering the wire directly. Checked the fuse box and her connections all check well, So wired it up using the auxillirary power supply fuse { this fuse is 12 volt hot at all times}. to power the coils through the coil relay mod. As not to have all kinds of inline fuses floating all over the place. Built a new battery strap hold down, and a relay mount that bolts off of it, The harness on my relay connector has a bolt hole and tab in it instead of the relay,so you just pop out the relay should it need replaced. Definitly could tell a difference in the way it ran immediately, which tells me the power wire out of the ignition switch def has issues, but works fine for closing relay contacts. removed all the emission garbage, cleaned up the front side of the battery box by doing it.
New regulator harness from ricks stator came in so went after that, removed the complete stator harness from the main harness, {wanted to see where the wire from the stator that runs the headlight connects}. Cut off the harness a few inches from the stator, and rewired the stator harness directly to the new harness soldering each connection,{ricks comes with a heavier guage wire that's plenty long to reach back over to the stator} then reattached the yellow lead which runs the headlights. Installed a 12 gauge wire from the connector where the white wire would normally be, to a 30 amp fuse and an eyelet to attach to the positive battery connection. ran a 12 gauge wire from the black wire cavity to the neg side of the New battery directly. Then attached the brown lead to the middle between the two after verifying it was battery voltage with key on. Insuring charging to battery is direct with no loose ends, then retaped the entire harness with improvements with 3 m electrical tape. Will continue to monitor to make sure she's not losing voltage there, but would think would notice if the tail lights had an issue dimming. Now waiting for the regulator to make it so I can plug it in and see how it works. Stator tested fine, but hadn't been able to run it long enough to get it hot.

Fork seals replaced, brake fluid flushed and mc cleaned out, Radiator is cleaned and flushed out as well.
My thought process on the engineers on this bike, Why in the heck did they put the removable engine cradle frame on the clutch side when it really isn't needed to replace the clutch, would have been nice to design it for the left side and make the right side solid {idiots} Its a 20 something year old bike but has promise. carbs all cleaned along with tank and petcock gone through. carbs adjusted and synced. Heading towards the driveshaft splines later in the weak, bike only has 5300 miles on it so hoping its fine, If not mistaken remember someone saying the later years had the issues moreso.
Not hearing much timing chain noise, but plans for switching to the manual adjuster soon. Not going to relocate the regulator simply because the bike has vance and hines slipons on it and no belly pan exhaust so heat shouldn't be an issue, although did drill out the nuts from battery box and will be installing bolts with a nut on the regulator assy so I can just stick it through the bottom and put nuts on it for ease of replacement, probably looking to switch to the mosfet design in the near future as well. wireings pretty much set up to change it now. that should get her back in top condition and add a little trustworthiness to it so I feel safe knowing my son should be trouble free on the rides with us.

Last edited by artstoy; 07-31-2013 at 08:51 PM.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-31-2013, 11:14 PM
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Hope you took some pix documenting these improvements. Sounds like you've been pretty busy, in a good way.


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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-01-2013, 08:15 AM
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After spending the afternoon with the bike, my ohm meter, soldering gun and torch and an assortment of wire, Feel I have a feel for the system. From my viewpoint some faulty connectors and the ignition switch seem to be a huge issue with these. Did the coil mod but with a twist, redid the main power supply to the fuse box, doing away with the bullet connector, and soldering the wire directly. Checked the fuse box and her connections all check well, So wired it up using the auxillirary power supply fuse { this fuse is 12 volt hot at all times}. to power the coils through the coil relay mod. As not to have all kinds of inline fuses floating all over the place. Built a new battery strap hold down, and a relay mount that bolts off of it, The harness on my relay connector has a bolt hole and tab in it instead of the relay,so you just pop out the relay should it need replaced. Definitly could tell a difference in the way it ran immediately, which tells me the power wire out of the ignition switch def has issues, but works fine for closing relay contacts. removed all the emission garbage, cleaned up the front side of the battery box by doing it.
New regulator harness from ricks stator came in so went after that, removed the complete stator harness from the main harness, {wanted to see where the wire from the stator that runs the headlight connects}. Cut off the harness a few inches from the stator, and rewired the stator harness directly to the new harness soldering each connection,{ricks comes with a heavier guage wire that's plenty long to reach back over to the stator} then reattached the yellow lead which runs the headlights. Installed a 12 gauge wire from the connector where the white wire would normally be, to a 30 amp fuse and an eyelet to attach to the positive battery connection. ran a 12 gauge wire from the black wire cavity to the neg side of the New battery directly. Then attached the brown lead to the middle between the two after verifying it was battery voltage with key on. Insuring charging to battery is direct with no loose ends, then retaped the entire harness with improvements with 3 m electrical tape. Will continue to monitor to make sure she's not losing voltage there, but would think would notice if the tail lights had an issue dimming. Now waiting for the regulator to make it so I can plug it in and see how it works. Stator tested fine, but hadn't been able to run it long enough to get it hot.

Fork seals replaced, brake fluid flushed and mc cleaned out, Radiator is cleaned and flushed out as well.
My thought process on the engineers on this bike, Why in the heck did they put the removable engine cradle frame on the clutch side when it really isn't needed to replace the clutch, would have been nice to design it for the left side and make the right side solid {idiots} Its a 20 something year old bike but has promise. carbs all cleaned along with tank and petcock gone through. carbs adjusted and synced. Heading towards the driveshaft splines later in the weak, bike only has 5300 miles on it so hoping its fine, If not mistaken remember someone saying the later years had the issues moreso.
Not hearing much timing chain noise, but plans for switching to the manual adjuster soon. Not going to relocate the regulator simply because the bike has vance and hines slipons on it and no belly pan exhaust so heat shouldn't be an issue, although did drill out the nuts from battery box and will be installing bolts with a nut on the regulator assy so I can just stick it through the bottom and put nuts on it for ease of replacement, probably looking to switch to the mosfet design in the near future as well. wireings pretty much set up to change it now. that should get her back in top condition and add a little trustworthiness to it so I feel safe knowing my son should be trouble free on the rides with us.
So.........that's all you did?

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-01-2013, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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well built new stainless coasters too lol.. Makes me appreciate my stratoliner that much more, start I and just ride it lol.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-01-2013, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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oh and a shiney new chrome brake reservoir cover lol
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-01-2013, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-01-2013, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-01-2013, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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