coil relay mod, thought - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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coil relay mod, thought

Been steadily working on this bike for about the last week, I know it has a weak ignition switch and from reading the coil relay mod, Would seem that the ignition switch could be a major culprit in all this.
Question, if this is the case would it stand to reason that the brown signal wire going to the regulator from the ignition switch, could give faulty readings as well, assuming the R/R uses this wire to to control its charging output. Havent found enough data on it. But would it be feasible to run the brown wire along with the coil power wires off the positive side of the relay on the coil mod, that way you assure yourself a viable source for battery voltage, Considering it takes a lot less to turn a relay on then to actually power up the lead and what it controls, Now thius being said I don't know the inner workings of the r/r completely, but someone with a bit more info please chime in. Im curious
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 09:56 PM
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Id you are worried about a false reading through the r/r, just tire it into the battery lead... White wire... But going your route through the relay would get the same results.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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I was assuming the ignition wire needed to be able to turn on and off with the key, White wire is hot all the time. Is this the case,
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artstoy View Post
Been steadily working on this bike for about the last week, I know it has a weak ignition switch and from reading the coil relay mod, Would seem that the ignition switch could be a major culprit in all this.
Question, if this is the case would it stand to reason that the brown signal wire going to the regulator from the ignition switch, could give faulty readings as well, assuming the R/R uses this wire to to control its charging output. Havent found enough data on it. But would it be feasible to run the brown wire along with the coil power wires off the positive side of the relay on the coil mod, that way you assure yourself a viable source for battery voltage, Considering it takes a lot less to turn a relay on then to actually power up the lead and what it controls, Now thius being said I don't know the inner workings of the r/r completely, but someone with a bit more info please chime in. Im curious
Personally, thru a relay, I power the coils (Coil Mod) from the battery (attached @ Starter Solenoid).
It is a reliable source of 12V at any/all instant of time.
No voltage spikes/Hi's/ Low's etc...... In a way, it acts as a parallel voltage filter.

...just sayin'

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!

Last edited by WilliamTech; 07-29-2013 at 10:12 PM.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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will be wiring the white wire directly to the battery through a 30 amp fuse. and running the ground to the battery as well. once the new harness and R/R get here that is.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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That would be the case in this situation as well, but wondering if tying in the ignition feed brown wire to this relay source would be recommended, due to the high number of wiring issues this bike seems to have hampering it
Sometimes simplicity is the obvious approach
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artstoy View Post
will be wiring the white wire directly to the battery through a 30 amp fuse. and running the ground to the battery as well. once the new harness and R/R get here that is.
That's basically what I did with mine (I grounded to the frame). I used the rear coil wire (red one) as the relay trigger, this way it's only on when the ignition is on and taped up the front coil wire (red) and tucked it away in case I decide that I want a relay for something up front in the future. Hot output from the relay goes to both coils.

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Mods
Voltmeter/clock/temperature gauge
HD Electra Glide Fairing
Earshave/Coastered/CA emissions - gone...
R/R relocated
Nightster seat
Tombstone taillight
Drag specialties turn signals relocated
Sportster progressive shocks... Dropped rear 1 1/2"
Progressive Fork Springs dropped front 1"
NGK plug wires and iridium plugs
Coil Relay Mod
Paint
ACCT to MCCT
Honda Rebel luggage rack
VN800 Handlebars & controls
Screamin Eagle mufflers
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakzen View Post
That's basically what I did with mine (I grounded to the frame). I used the rear coil wire (red one) as the relay trigger, this way it's only on when the ignition is on and taped up the front coil wire (red) and tucked it away in case I decide that I want a relay for something up front in the future. Hot output from the relay goes to both coils.

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x2 ...wired exactly same on my bike. The Relay, I mounted inside the right frame - up against the battery box with a zip-tie.


'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 11:13 PM
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....that brown wire, by the way...runs straight to hell....the Kawasaki idiot engineers/designers decided to tie all kinds of stuff together....if you short out your horn, the rest in the circuit will go, and you cant start the bike.....stupid design....dumbazz engineering, inc....



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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfie View Post
....that brown wire, by the way...runs straight to hell....the Kawasaki idiot engineers/designers decided to tie all kinds of stuff together....if you short out your horn, the rest in the circuit will go, and you cant start the bike.....stupid design....dumbazz engineering, inc....
Tell me about it... That brown wire controls the brake lights... Switch shorted, main fuse popped... Redneck engineering (aka jumper in place of fuse)... Fried half of the wiring harness.

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Mods
Voltmeter/clock/temperature gauge
HD Electra Glide Fairing
Earshave/Coastered/CA emissions - gone...
R/R relocated
Nightster seat
Tombstone taillight
Drag specialties turn signals relocated
Sportster progressive shocks... Dropped rear 1 1/2"
Progressive Fork Springs dropped front 1"
NGK plug wires and iridium plugs
Coil Relay Mod
Paint
ACCT to MCCT
Honda Rebel luggage rack
VN800 Handlebars & controls
Screamin Eagle mufflers
F&S Engine Guard & Kury highway pegs
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