regulator wiring - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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regulator wiring

Ordered a new regulator from rmstator, Not sure of the quality of the item. I have aftermarket exhaust, so thinking stock location is ok at present. Been studying the wiring diagrams on whats been stated as per the coil rewire, and think I will do the same. Seems like the weak point would be the ignition contacts. considering the only other thing ran off this is the starter switch which basically just controls another relay contact.
Question on R/R mod wiring, One of the wires to it is a ground, the other seems to be hot with key on power, and the white one is 12 volt all the time, Im assuming you are grounding the black wire from the R/R directly to the battery, and the white wire are you disconnecting it and goin directly to the positive or are you splicing into it, I assume looking at the wiring it gets 12 volts from the fuse box. so it wouldn't be needed, so adding a 30 amp fuse inline at the battery with this wire gives it direct charge from the R/R. In the process of building a couple of stainless coasters to do away with the emmissions. Bike is a 91 750 my son purchased, ran but ran poorly, only has 5000 miles on it and he got it for 800 bucks, weve done a few things to it so far, have it running pretty well, but noticed the new battery seemed to be getting weaker, found the r/r to be corroded on its terminals and the plug looked melted, cleaned them up and the charging increased slightly, so decided to just replace it and ad a new connector and rewire directly to battery. I assume the key on power wire is needed to energize the R/R. kind of wish we would have seen this new updated mosfet set up before I ordered the new regulator. may just have to do it later.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 03:38 PM
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You have six wires on the r/r, 3 yellow, a black with yellow stripe, a white, and a brown. The white write runs directly to the battery, black with yellow stripe runs to the frame ground (bolt next to the battery box on the shifter side with a Barry cable and a bullet connector), the brown wire senses the strain on the electrical system to determine how much and when to drop excess voltage.

I hope this is what you were asking

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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So being powered by the ignition switch, if it had a voltage drop at the switch or wire, it could cause a possible overcharging situation, if it didnt see enough voltage on that wire.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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You see alot of post about failed stators, and from everyone i talked to this seems to be a very reliable design, Wondering why so many fail, has to be some explanation. And what is the consensus on the most reliable stator out there, OEM or aftermarket
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artstoy View Post
You see alot of post about failed stators, and from everyone i talked to this seems to be a very reliable design, Wondering why so many fail, has to be some explanation. And what is the consensus on the most reliable stator out there, OEM or aftermarket
They seem to fail over time due to the stock regulator design, resistance at the bullet connectors, manufacturing defects, owners running their engine with low oil, etc.

The best stator is using your OEM core and sending it to Tim Parrot. He'll rewind it better than anyone you can buy, and it will output much higher than OEM. I combined that with a MOSFET regulator and I get 14.6v @ all RPMs.

www.tpe-usa.com

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 07:55 PM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thtanner View Post
They seem to fail over time due to the stock regulator design, resistance at the bullet connectors, manufacturing defects, owners running their engine with low oil, etc.

The best stator is using your OEM core and sending it to Tim Parrot. He'll rewind it better than anyone you can buy, and it will output much higher than OEM. I combined that with a MOSFET regulator and I get 14.6v @ all RPMs.

www.tpe-usa.com
x2 on all written !

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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