stator woes and a moral dilemma
Hi all... it's been a while. Please don't mind the long winded post. I'm in a bit of a dilemma.
Recently found the paperwork for the '86 I rode around on before I got my BMW. With that in hand I serviced the bike (all fluids, splines, carb clean and sync, cleaning, new agm battery, aside from some other longer term stuff I've done over the last few years) and sold it last night...
then 60 miles later the stator failed... I think. I met the buyer on the side of the road today a few miles out of town. 12v at 4-5k rpm. Went back to the city where the other two bikes are in boxes, and brought 2 other R/R's to the side of the road. Both of these also rendered 12v at 4-5k rpm.
I didn't check the regulator. Had a test lamp with me... but the link to the diagram in the verses was bad so I was kind of at a loss there. I find it hard to believe all 3 could be bad. I didn't test the stator. Haven't ever had to do it, wasn't entirely sure on what to check, and as I was kind of rushed to go help the guy out...
Jumped it again and told him to keep the revs up and followed him home. So here's where I'm at:
1) I checked the voltage at the battery when I was bringing the bike back up to snuff, after I put in the new AGM battery. Voltage was correct. Could it be that the 100 degree heat killed it today? Coolant needle would swing up to about 3/4 at a standstill before the fan would bring it back down. Didn't overheat though. Coolant was done about 1-1/2 years ago. Stator is sitting in a fresh bath of Rotella T, and I was good about changing the oil.
2) Also, since it's a permanent magnet rotor, could it be that when he zinged it up to 8k on the test ride that loaded up the windings with more juice than they could take? Not that it shouldn't be able to take it... but these are a weak link on the Vulcans and I'm thinking along the lines of "the straw that broke the camel's back" What is the proper procedure to check the condition of the stator?
3) I did move the R/R back to the clutch side helmet lock mounting hole a couple years ago for the obvious reasons. Never had charging problems. I replaced the battery recently because I had let the old one die while the bike was sitting. The old one was a flooded battery, but I was good about keeping the levels proper. What is the proper procedure to check the R/R? I'm thinking more along the lines of the test lamp procedure. I know the multimeter one is pretty useless.
I had offered to buy the bike back from him for the selling price (1450, 150 less than asking). He's into it for $200 in registration and taxes, so I don't think he wants to. Thing is, I know that the bike was charging the last time I had it running, which was to sync the carbs a couple weeks ago. I don't wan't to screw this guy, but it just seems like bad luck. I have a used stator off my last 86 I would give him for nothing... but why spend all that time to put in a used, failure-prone part?
I suggested that if the stator is bad to replace it with an aftermarket one, and probably do the balancer gear bushings while the stator is out for good measure (26k on the clock). I'd kinda eat it at $350 for parts and labor, but that's what I'm thinking of offering if he wants me to do it. I've thought about kicking him back a few bucks, but I checked that bike inside and out before I put it up for sale... and I gave up $150 on the phone before he came to buy it.
So... thoughts, advice, vindication? I'd welcome it all.
Thanks for staying tuned,
If it ain't broke... well I'm sure I can find something that is