headlight power drain - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-27-2013, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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headlight power drain

Hello, I'll get down to intro real soon but for now... I bought an 89 VN750 with 30k miles that didn't charge. I just installed a Tim Parrot re-wound stator, coupled with Shindengen (MOSFET) relocated about an inch over JB. Conducted test on stator; she works perfect (not grounding & idle = 31-32 Vac & 3k rpms = 60-70+ Vac.

My problem: she doesn't charge correctly once I connect the headlight (JB yellow to stator leg), I'm barely getting 13v (DC). But, when I connect just the stator to the mosfet, (WITHOUT the yellow headlight relay wire in the JB) I get an awsome 14.27+v, but of course, no headlight. So I moved the Blue wire of the JB 8-connector to the empty slot (yes, I've done extensive research on this site) and now I have headlight upon turn of key but... only 13.5v (cold eng). This is unacceptable voltage for a cold engine, and I'm not too happy with this blue wire rearrangement (bypassing trigger relay/3 diodes of JB).

What/where/how do I look for this power drain? short? Something is not right. why is she draining nearly a whole volt upon teeing off the headlight?

Thank you.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-27-2013, 10:36 AM
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While 13.5v is not unacceptable voltage for idle, I personally see 14.6v across all RPMS with my MOSFET/TPE stator.

I'd check the wiring for the headlight. Clean all connectors associated with it, etc, and go from there.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-27-2013, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bambu View Post
Hello, I'll get down to intro real soon but for now... I bought an 89 VN750 with 30k miles that didn't charge. I just installed a Tim Parrot re-wound stator, coupled with Shindengen (MOSFET) relocated about an inch over JB. Conducted test on stator; she works perfect (not grounding & idle = 31-32 Vac & 3k rpms = 60-70+ Vac.

My problem: she doesn't charge correctly once I connect the headlight (JB yellow to stator leg), I'm barely getting 13v (DC). But, when I connect just the stator to the mosfet, (WITHOUT the yellow headlight relay wire in the JB) I get an awsome 14.27+v, but of course, no headlight. So I moved the Blue wire of the JB 8-connector to the empty slot (yes, I've done extensive research on this site) and now I have headlight upon turn of key but... only 13.5v (cold eng). This is unacceptable voltage for a cold engine, and I'm not too happy with this blue wire rearrangement (bypassing trigger relay/3 diodes of JB).

What/where/how do I look for this power drain? short? Something is not right. why is she draining nearly a whole volt upon teeing off the headlight?

Thank you.
check the bulb itself, make sure it is not a 80/100 bulb, they draw more then the 55/65

Make sure your voltage checks are at higher RPM, these bikes don't really charge at idle.

kenny

Merc
2000 Vulcan Drifter 800
Roadhouse classic 2 > 1 exhaust
Okie Smokie intake config
Changed jets
52K miles or so, always going up
Corbin Seat
Painted flat black winter '12
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-27-2013, 11:02 AM
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I am/have been diagnosing a headlight issue for some time now. A PO, previous owner can have some weird stuff done.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-27-2013, 11:44 AM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bambu View Post
Hello, I'll get down to intro real soon but for now... I bought an 89 VN750 with 30k miles that didn't charge. I just installed a Tim Parrot re-wound stator, coupled with Shindengen (MOSFET) relocated about an inch over JB. Conducted test on stator; she works perfect (not grounding & idle = 31-32 Vac & 3k rpms = 60-70+ Vac.

My problem: she doesn't charge correctly once I connect the headlight (JB yellow to stator leg), I'm barely getting 13v (DC). But, when I connect just the stator to the mosfet, (WITHOUT the yellow headlight relay wire in the JB) I get an awsome 14.27+v, but of course, no headlight. So I moved the Blue wire of the JB 8-connector to the empty slot (yes, I've done extensive research on this site) and now I have headlight upon turn of key but... only 13.5v (cold eng). This is unacceptable voltage for a cold engine, and I'm not too happy with this blue wire rearrangement (bypassing trigger relay/3 diodes of JB).

What/where/how do I look for this power drain? short? Something is not right. why is she draining nearly a whole volt upon teeing off the headlight?

Thank you.
I would suspect the old wire harness as the voltage sucker culprit. The same reason the "Coil Mod" is recommended. Is there a voltage difference between Low & High Beam ?
I would run new (replacement) headlight wires as necessary...also ensure the headlight has a good electrical ground.

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!

Last edited by WilliamTech; 06-27-2013 at 11:48 AM.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-27-2013, 01:58 PM
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just curious...does your low/hi beam actually work?

I am curious if the low beam filament is burned out and the system is forcing the high beam on.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-27-2013, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kc2dgq View Post
just curious...does your low/hi beam actually work?

I am curious if the low beam filament is burned out and the system is forcing the high beam on.
That is a good thing to note. I believe you are correct that the high beam activates if the low beam has failed.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-27-2013, 02:41 PM
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The headlight will draw 4-5 amps hi or lo. Only 5 watts different. I would suggest you have the battery tested.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-27-2013, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmsonta View Post
The headlight will draw 4-5 amps hi or lo. Only 5 watts different. I would suggest you have the battery tested.
agreed unless it has an offroad type bulb.... 80/100W

just saying, worth a quick check

kenny

Merc
2000 Vulcan Drifter 800
Roadhouse classic 2 > 1 exhaust
Okie Smokie intake config
Changed jets
52K miles or so, always going up
Corbin Seat
Painted flat black winter '12
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-27-2013, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury View Post
agreed unless it has an offroad type bulb.... 80/100W

just saying, worth a quick check

kenny
Agreed. Merc, why do you think Kaw chose to overcharge the battery? Higher voltage keeps the R/R from shunting higher amperage to ground with the large increase in heat.
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