Sporadic turn signal - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-22-2013, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Sporadic turn signal

My left rear signal is acting crazy... sometimes it works... sometimes it doesn't. I checked the bullet connectors and the are tight and lubed with electrical grease. And since it works occasionally the bulb must be good... Any ideas? Its only the left rear, the left front works every time.

"Pain is weakness leaving my mouth! *&%^$ that hurt!"

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-22-2013, 02:00 PM
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Did you reseat the bulb to make sure it's getting a good connection?

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-22-2013, 02:02 PM
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I'd think it's most likely a short or broken (breaking) wire somewhere between the bullet connector and the turn signal itself. Probably have to trace it back and look for any place where it might be rubbing or pinching. Could even be at the turn signal itself. But sporadically working like that I'd have to guess it is something wrong with the wire or the bulb not seated well.

Edit: And thtanner with the ninja reply while I was typing.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-22-2013, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't mess with the bulb... but I had the blinker on and was wiggling the wires with no change... I even tapped on the signal module... I guess I'll take out the bulb and give it a looksee

"Pain is weakness leaving my mouth! *&%^$ that hurt!"

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-23-2013, 07:18 AM
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Are these the stock signals and did you relocate them for your saddlebags? If so, did you have to extend the wires to move them back?

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Leave it to me to NOT be fond of something then end up banging it.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-23-2013, 08:47 AM
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Just occasionally I have had a faulty bulb that you could tap and it would work. A long shot I agree, but if everything else checks out a bulb change would be worth trying.

One can never have too many alternative forms of transport.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-23-2013, 09:25 AM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris32250 View Post
My left rear signal is acting crazy... sometimes it works... sometimes it doesn't. I checked the bullet connectors and the are tight and lubed with electrical grease. And since it works occasionally the bulb must be good... Any ideas? Its only the left rear, the left front works every time.
I had the same problem....used to reach back & slap it to start blinking.
Eventually got around to cleaning contacts in socket & on bulb.


'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!

Last edited by WilliamTech; 06-23-2013 at 05:59 PM.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-23-2013, 05:28 PM
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I run into this all the time and it is time to get out the multimeter. If you don't have one you can get them at Sears, Home Depot or Radio Shack to mention a few.

Two culprits here that you are dealing with, the positive and the negative. Without either you won't have anything.

Unhook the battery positive terminal from the battery. If you unhook the negative without unhooking the positive and that wire accidently touches another grounding point you can damage your multimeter and scare the snot our of you.

On the ohmage scale Ω of the multimeter, test the center of the light holder. Looking at the schematic follow back at various places if you have constant continuity (it would be zeros on the multimeter screen) have someone wiggle the wires after you make good contact. The points on the multimeter (DMM) need to be sharp so it can penetrate the insulation and touch the wire inside the insulation. You may need to do this all the way to the blinker relay.

If you don't find a break in the positive, try it in the negative. If you still don't find a break, then you may want to consider cutting the wires where the bullets are and soldering them together with a bare butt connector along with heat shrink tubing. Then also where that blinker wire hooks up to the blinker relay replacing the solderless connector with a new female spade and solder that solderless connector to the wire for added continuity strength. Before connecting that connector back to the blinker crimp down the female spade so it is a little difficult to put the connector back on the blinker relay. Also some dielectric grease will prevent further problems.

If you still have an issue then you will need to clean the inside of the grounding section of the blinker is (inside the tube) and possibly use a dremel tool to make sure the place where the nipples on the bulb touch the ground part of the tube is clean. There is a spring in the bulb assembly that keeps pressure on the nipples to the ground. Pull that spring out a little to make sure there is enough pressure on the grounding. Actually this is where I would start the procedure.

If that doesn't work then you may have a bad part in your flasher relay. I know you will find it if you take these procedures.

Grace and Peace to you!
Richard
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-24-2013, 04:36 AM
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Everything mrseedsower says is spot on. Just to add, the bulb consists of a glass envelope with the wire connections joined inside the holder. Sometimes these internal connections, and sometimes the cement fail and all your wiring checks out perfectly, but still the bulb is intermittent. Quite a rare fault, but one to keep in the back of your mind.

One can never have too many alternative forms of transport.
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