Question about accessory connection - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-21-2007, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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Question about accessory connection

I finally got my Kuryakyn LED battery gauge in, and was wondering if anyone could tell me if the spare accessory connection up by the headlight would be a good place to connect this? And, if anyone knows if this connection is only powered on when the key is on, or only when the engine is running? Thanks for any help here.

Steve in TX
'06 VN1600 Classic
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-21-2007, 02:50 PM
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IIRC that is in an always on. may be wrong with that.... I recomend the battery meter connected directly to the battery terminals though. you can do this with a small automotive relay with the signal side run off the igition switch, headlight or put in your own switch so you can check it without starting it. i think there was a .25 volt drop from battery to the headlight housing... may not seem much but at idle every volt counts.....

'04 Vn750
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nat'l cycle deflector shield
westco 12v30 MF, 30A/h w/ 350 CCA's w/ custom box
TOC stator cover w/ Frankenstator mod!
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-25-2007, 02:12 PM
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I just installed the single-LED Heads-Up battery monitor/gauge and opted to use the dash lighting circuit to power it. This is the same circuit which powers the front parking lights. I measured about ~0.35V drop between the battery and the connector where the fuel gauge lights plug in behind the headlight. What the heck, the gauge will still do it's job...if it indicates low, then I have a charging problem.

To mount the voltage monitor circuit box, I zip-tied it to the frame under the gas tank near the thermostat and routed the wires forward to the back of the headlight bucket. I cut the wires there and reconnected them with a 6-pin Molex connector and mounted the indicator LED through the instrument panel next to the ignition key. This lets me remove the gauge cluster without removing the battery monitor circuit.

By the way, I tested the accessory plug-in inside the headlight bucket, and it's always on.

Darrel
'03 Vulcan 750 (90k miles)
-Corbin Seat
-V-Force Windshield
-LeatherLyke Touring Bags
-Chrome Luggage Rack
-Headlight Modulator
-Brakelight Flasher
-MF Battery
-Heads-Up Voltage Monitor
-Replaced Stator (9,000 and 16,000 mi.)
-Oil-cooled Stator Mod (photos)
-Replaced and Relocated R/R
-Greased rear splines
-Fused Stator (photos)
-Metzeler ME880 Marathon 170/80-15 (Rear), 110/90-19 (Front)
-TOC MCCTs installed
-Headlight Relays
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-25-2007, 02:18 PM
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I got a LCD voltmeter/clock/thermometer mounted on top of the triple forks.
The meter leads go directly to the battery. The power lead for the gauge (switched with key) is connected to the hot lead for the rear coil. Keeps all the connections right in the battery area.

Been getting 13.1-13.3 at idle and 14+ above 2500rpm since putting in my Rick's stator and R/R.

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-25-2007, 02:30 PM
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Sounds good! I suppose you routed all this when the tank was off while replacing your stator.

I just got my engine back in after replacing the stator (second time!). I used the Rick's product after hearing your description and talking to Rick. I need to test it better, but I think I'm getting about the same voltage. Unfortunately, I have been focusing more on getting it to run correctly. I'll post a question in the other forum about that.

Darrel
'03 Vulcan 750 (90k miles)
-Corbin Seat
-V-Force Windshield
-LeatherLyke Touring Bags
-Chrome Luggage Rack
-Headlight Modulator
-Brakelight Flasher
-MF Battery
-Heads-Up Voltage Monitor
-Replaced Stator (9,000 and 16,000 mi.)
-Oil-cooled Stator Mod (photos)
-Replaced and Relocated R/R
-Greased rear splines
-Fused Stator (photos)
-Metzeler ME880 Marathon 170/80-15 (Rear), 110/90-19 (Front)
-TOC MCCTs installed
-Headlight Relays
SOLD - 2013
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-25-2007, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darrelc5 View Post
Sounds good! I suppose you routed all this when the tank was off while replacing your stator.

I just got my engine back in after replacing the stator (second time!). I used the Rick's product after hearing your description and talking to Rick. I need to test it better, but I think I'm getting about the same voltage. Unfortunately, I have been focusing more on getting it to run correctly. I'll post a question in the other forum about that.
Yes, while the tank was off, but don't see why it couldn't be done with the tank on. Just fish the leads along side the factory harness.

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
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