Stator Power - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-09-2006, 08:07 AM Thread Starter
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Stator Power

Since the main problem with our electrical system is heat build up I'd like to hear some thoughts on this position. Putting a higher output stator and top quality battery in this bike is only going to cause a back up of power in the r/r,thus more heat causing it to fail. Then taking out the new stator with it. It seems to me that having a slightly weaker battery or adding lights is a good way to keep that juice flowing. The stator keeps dumping out power, no matter what to a point where there is no place to put it. It would be nice if there was a circuit to bring the stator up and down, short of that I think extra lights etc. at highway speeds would actually be helpful to the system. I have read many posts of new stators with mf batteries going bad long before the the original factory set up did. Thanks for your patience in this matter.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-09-2006, 09:18 AM
 
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OK i'll bite. so then with the setup you suggest, the battery becomes the weak link in the system. so one would be chewing up batteries vs. stators & R/R's. is that the logic? ride'em safe, J
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-09-2006, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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The battery should not be a weak link if you can strike a balance between power power production and consumption. A volt meter running as you ride could let you know when you need to burn off some power.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-09-2006, 09:30 AM
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IMHO, the system needs a more efficient regulator (r/r) that could handle the wide range of dc voltage that gets applied to it.

My company designs and builds power supplies and I am talking with some of the other engineers about possibilities. One idea is a regulated 13Vdc circuit for everything but charging the battery and a second circuit with charge monitoring in it to vary the voltage as needed to charge the battery.

We have dc/dc converters the size of a cigarette pack that can handle 1kW.

There isn't a problem with any regulator dissipating the extra heat IF it is built to handle the task. Ours is not. Components are way too small and die from the heat.

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-10-2006, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
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Why do I need a stator that can deliver 14 or 15 volts most of the time? If the bike is designed to run on 12 volts the goal should be to deliver a steady 12 to 13 volts. The higher voltage probably shortens the life of the mf battery and bulbs.(not to mention the extra heat in the r/r) All I want is 12 volts in the battery when I hit that starter button. Once she fires up the system should be able to maintain itself at 12-13 volts and life is good.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-10-2006, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engine89 View Post
Why do I need a stator that can deliver 14 or 15 volts most of the time? If the bike is designed to run on 12 volts the goal should be to deliver a steady 12 to 13 volts. The higher voltage probably shortens the life of the mf battery and bulbs.(not to mention the extra heat in the r/r) All I want is 12 volts in the battery when I hit that starter button. Once she fires up the system should be able to maintain itself at 12-13 volts and life is good.
Problem is that you will not be able to charge the battery with 12 V. You have to have closer to 14 V. Agreed that most of the time, the extra voltage is wasted. That's our dilemma.

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-10-2006, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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If we have this extra voltage hanging around it would seem ok to have accessories running to burn off this power while cruising. I read alot of posts saying not to add,but to subtract wattage (led bulbs) from the system. This would seem to do more harm than good.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-11-2006, 12:19 AM
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ehhh lets just change over to 24v system... so much more efficent.

the extra voltage is what you need to charge the battery. keep in mind a battery is sitting at 12.25-12.65VDC. This means to get force into it, then it must be >13vdc. this is how all rechargable batteries are. some have higher voltages others lower.

Also keep in mind you really dont have excess voltage to burn like you think. Electricity is measured in 2 dimensions. Volts....and....Amps.... Just because you have the volts to burn, you dont have the amps. Also with a draw on amps, there will be a drop in voltage. Granted our chaging system is crap, sadly it will cost alot more then its worth to try and fix.

also we swap to leds bulbs to get a charge at idle. Our bikes do not charge at idle if you are OEM. they run off the battery untill about 2k-2.5k rpms.

'04 Vn750
Currently Installed
nat'l cycle deflector shield
westco 12v30 MF, 30A/h w/ 350 CCA's w/ custom box
TOC stator cover w/ Frankenstator mod!
R/R relo

Soon to have (own or on order)
TOC ACCT's
Mez's 110-FRT 170/80-Rear
Custom rear fender and tail light
Givi hard bags w/ custom rear turn signals


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