Hi from a new member - with question - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-01-2006, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Hi from a new member - with question

Hi Everyone,

I have been lurking for a couple of months and I really appreciate all of the information that I have culled from your lively posts. There are some real characters here! I chose to make my introduction in the Electrical forum because that's where I have spent most of my time.

I have an '03 vn750 and have already replaced the stator and the R/R and relocated it as suggested here. It seems to be charging well, except for the battery not holding a charge very long. (I replaced the battery with a Yuasa or Westco MF this summer as you guys recommend.) Last night it had to be jump started as I left from work, then stalled after idling for about 4 minutes at a red light and had to be jump started again. I have high-falutin' Amprobe DC current clamp and I when I got home I monitored the current at the battery cable. Here's what I observed (from memory, didn't write it down):

Idle - headlight OFF - (-) 3~4 Amps (current FROM battery)
Idle - headlight ON - (-) ~8 Amps
1500 rpm - headlight ON - (-) 1 Amp
2500 rpm - headlight ON - (+/-) 0 Amps
4000 rpm - headlight ON - (+) ~8 Amps

The battery was not fully charged and I did not monitor it long enough to verify that the current diminshes as the battery became fully charged. I measured about 12.2 V at idle and about 13.5 V at 4000 rpm.

All of this makes me think that the stator and R/R are working properly. I may test the raw stator output this weekend, but I suspect that the problem is with the battery. Someone said that a ruined regulator will take the battery out. I will take the battery to Autozone to be load tested this weekend.

Does anyone know what the failure mode is that kills the battery? Is it too high of voltage when the R/R control circuit stops working? Just wondering what your experience has been.

One more thing: I have about 16k on my bike and haven't checked the rear drive splines yet. Hopefully I can get to it this weekend. I have read a lot about the lack of grease and I found the front spline sorely lacking when I did the stator replacement. Maybe I will be pleasantly suprised. I'll let you know what I find.

Well, thanks for the great info.

-DC

Darrel
'03 Vulcan 750 (90k miles)
-Corbin Seat
-V-Force Windshield
-LeatherLyke Touring Bags
-Chrome Luggage Rack
-Headlight Modulator
-Brakelight Flasher
-MF Battery
-Heads-Up Voltage Monitor
-Replaced Stator (9,000 and 16,000 mi.)
-Oil-cooled Stator Mod (photos)
-Replaced and Relocated R/R
-Greased rear splines
-Fused Stator (photos)
-Metzeler ME880 Marathon 170/80-15 (Rear), 110/90-19 (Front)
-TOC MCCTs installed
-Headlight Relays
SOLD - 2013

Last edited by darrelc5; 12-04-2006 at 05:55 PM.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-01-2006, 02:45 PM
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You could have ended up with a bad out of the box battery, as I've seen it happen before. It could also be some weak wiring going to your coils. Does the bike turn over good but not fire? Or does it turn over weakly? If it turns over good but doesn't fire, I'm betting on weak spark from weak wiring. If it barely turns over, even when warmed up, I'm leaning toward a bad battery.

Fergy
Kyle, TX VN750.com member #707 VROC#19556
2002 VN1500 Classic
Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod
Rusty Tank Cleaning!
Electrical Fault Finding Flowchart
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-01-2006, 02:52 PM
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The Westco's seem to lead over the Yuasa's for bad out of the box batteries.

Jim W
93 VN 750 "Ursula"
Moved R/R 08Sep06
R/R rewire 17Feb07
New R/R, Installed 14Jun08
New Stator installed 10 Jun08
Maintenance Free Battery 12Jan08
21480 Miles
VROC #8542
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-01-2006, 07:19 PM
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My Yuasa has been working fine.

Ron from Jersey
2005 VN750
HellFire windshield
Kaw extended backrest
Cobra exhaust
Re-located stator wires
Side bags
15,000 Miles July/2012
It's PAID OFF ! May 2009
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-01-2006, 07:40 PM
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Your voltages at the battery should be higher. 13.5Vdc at 4K rpm is low, should be into the 14's by then.

Should not be 12.2Vdc at idle, should be closer to if not over 13Vdc.

Your battery may not be getting charged correctly with these lower voltages.

Check out the charging system fault chart here http://tinyurl.com/y99ef8.

Let us know what you find out.

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-01-2006, 10:26 PM
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That's what I meant, the Yuasa's seem to have a lower failure rate. The Westco's seem to have a problem. It could just be the results from this forum but if those results are indicative of a problem, those of us in the market for a MF battery should know about it.

Jim W
93 VN 750 "Ursula"
Moved R/R 08Sep06
R/R rewire 17Feb07
New R/R, Installed 14Jun08
New Stator installed 10 Jun08
Maintenance Free Battery 12Jan08
21480 Miles
VROC #8542
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-01-2006, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies.

The bike just cranks slowly and eventually won't crank (click, click, click). The battery is either not getting charged enough or has no capacity.

But wait! I just got back from Checker Auto where they tested the battery and the machine said 187 CCA; I have the Yausa YXT14AHL-BS maintanence free, CCA of 210. Only 10 percent difference, probably not the culprit. What do you guys think?

I agree with Jon, is seems that the voltages should be a little higher. BTW, I cannot access the troubleshooting link that you gave. I guess I will have to go through the whole procedure tomorrow---unloaded stator voltage, regulator output voltage, current in. Can't think of anything else to test. I'm kind of suspecting that, since (if?) the voltage is low, the stator may be partially shorted. Has anyone seen an R/R that is faulty out of the box, causing low regulated voltage? I just got mine, OEM from Ron Ayers.

Well, I'll let you know what I find. Any other ideas would be appreciated.

Darrel
'03 Vulcan 750 (90k miles)
-Corbin Seat
-V-Force Windshield
-LeatherLyke Touring Bags
-Chrome Luggage Rack
-Headlight Modulator
-Brakelight Flasher
-MF Battery
-Heads-Up Voltage Monitor
-Replaced Stator (9,000 and 16,000 mi.)
-Oil-cooled Stator Mod (photos)
-Replaced and Relocated R/R
-Greased rear splines
-Fused Stator (photos)
-Metzeler ME880 Marathon 170/80-15 (Rear), 110/90-19 (Front)
-TOC MCCTs installed
-Headlight Relays
SOLD - 2013
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-01-2006, 11:04 PM
 
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I would check the wiring...187 CCA should be fine IMO. what is the history of your bike? has it been outside alot? connections could be corroded. as for the question about a faulty r/r out of the box...anything is possible.

hopefully those splines will look like mine when I saw them 66k miles and they look like new...not a whole lotta grease but was such a pretty site to see.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-02-2006, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darrelc5
Thanks for the replies.

The bike just cranks slowly and eventually won't crank (click, click, click). The battery is either not getting charged enough or has no capacity.

But wait! I just got back from Checker Auto where they tested the battery and the machine said 187 CCA; I have the Yausa YXT14AHL-BS maintanence free, CCA of 210. Only 10 percent difference, probably not the culprit. What do you guys think?

I agree with Jon, is seems that the voltages should be a little higher. BTW, I cannot access the troubleshooting link that you gave. I guess I will have to go through the whole procedure tomorrow---unloaded stator voltage, regulator output voltage, current in. Can't think of anything else to test. I'm kind of suspecting that, since (if?) the voltage is low, the stator may be partially shorted. Has anyone seen an R/R that is faulty out of the box, causing low regulated voltage? I just got mine, OEM from Ron Ayers.

Well, I'll let you know what I find. Any other ideas would be appreciated.
The troubleshooting chart is over on the Yahoo groups site unders files, electrical, fault finding.

Definitely check all connections for corrosion. Hate to say this, but I'd suspect that stator over a new out of the box r/r.

Let us know.

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-02-2006, 08:53 AM
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Also For Voltage Tests Do You Have Permanent Daytime Headlights Or Not. As uk Vn's Usualy Don't Have This And Battery Demand Is Lower?

BEST OF HEALTH AND HAPPYNESS
EDALBRIS

1952 NORTON (MODEL ONE) 'BIG 4'
1955 NORTON DOMINATOR 88/99 CAFE RACER
1981 KAWASAKI Z1000ST SHAFT
1988 KAWASAKI VN750 (UK) HARDTAIL + 5"
1988 KAWASAKI VULCAN 750 (US)

ALL TIME WISHLIST BIKES
1939 BROUGH SUPERIOR SS100 GRAND ALPINE SPORT
ANY 1940ish NORTON WITH CS1 ENGINE
A RIDE ON A NORTON NEMISIS 'A'
NEVER HAD A CAR LICENCE AND HOPFULLY NEVER WILL
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