Hope it's not the stator !!! - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
and the Adventure Cycle
 
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Hope it's not the stator !!!

Well, I went for a ride Friday. Had troubles with the bike losing power. If I pulled the clutch in, the bike would die altogether. If I kept the throttle on, it'd run, but not all that well. This happened about 5 times in less that 50 miles.
Once I finally made it home, I realized my headlight isn't working, high or low beam.
I just checked the bulb & fuse. They're fine.
There were two of the headlight wires that were rubbing something in the bucket and had some insulation wore of. Got those fixed, hoping I'd see the light. Well, I'm still in the dark !
I was supposed to do some riding tomorrow (Sunday) but now it's looking like I'll be checking that the stator is showing good numbers.
The ride isn't supposed to start until about noon, so, just maybe, I'm hoping, I'll get things working by then and get a few more rides in before the snow falls.


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


"When life throws you curves,
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post #2 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 09:03 PM
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Don't suppose you checked the fuse too did you? If the wires shorted, may have popped the fuse too..

Dianna
Conway, AR
Patriot Guard Rider
2000 VN750 Sere (Serendipity)
1990 GL1500 (Ole Blue)
1986 VN750 EVie (project bike, heavy custom)
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post #3 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 09:34 PM
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Mine acted similarly, found out two of three stator leads shorted to ground.

Was just enough to keep it running at 1500 rpm or higher, much lower then I knew it would stall and never start without a jump or push.

Let us know what you find out.

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
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post #4 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dianna
Don't suppose you checked the fuse too did you?
Yep, I checked the fuse. Even switched fuses around to be sure.
I did find out the fuse on my Battery Tender was blown though. But that couldn't have had anything to do with this problem. I'm pretty sure I touched the + side to the frame when I hooked up the clamps to check the headlight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 93VN750
Was just enough to keep it running at 1500 rpm or higher, much lower then I knew it would stall and never start without a jump or push.
Well, when it was running good (between problems) it would run/idle fine.
Also, after the < 50 miles I did get in, the bike is still starting fine.
It doesn't seem like the battery isn't getting a charge.

And now I can't find my multimeter !!!
Off to Wally World to get another.

I should get 50+ volts AC checking the stator, right?
And .3-.5 ohms checking between stator wires? (1-2, 2-3, 3-1)
Back in a while........


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


"When life throws you curves,
Aim for the apex."

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post #5 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperbuzzin
Yep, I checked the fuse. Even switched fuses around to be sure.
I did find out the fuse on my Battery Tender was blown though. But that couldn't have had anything to do with this problem. I'm pretty sure I touched the + side to the frame when I hooked up the clamps to check the headlight.


Well, when it was running good (between problems) it would run/idle fine.
Also, after the < 50 miles I did get in, the bike is still starting fine.
It doesn't seem like the battery isn't getting a charge.

And now I can't find my multimeter !!!
Off to Wally World to get another.

I should get 50+ volts AC checking the stator, right?
And .3-.5 ohms checking between stator wires? (1-2, 2-3, 3-1)
Back in a while........
Yes, and more important is infinite resistance from every stator lead to ground.

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
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post #6 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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Well, all they had at Wally World were analog meters.

I just checked quickly, but if I did it right, it looked like I had 0 ohms (opposite end of scale from infinity ??) between all stator leads & battery ground.
Did I do something wrong, or does that mean fried stator?

Then I fried my little finger while getting the bike warmed up, so I'm calling it quits 'till tomorrow.


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


"When life throws you curves,
Aim for the apex."

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post #7 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperbuzzin
Well, all they had at Wally World were analog meters.

I just checked quickly, but if I did it right, it looked like I had 0 ohms (opposite end of scale from infinity ??) between all stator leads & battery ground.
Did I do something wrong, or does that mean fried stator?

Then I fried my little finger while getting the bike warmed up, so I'm calling it quits 'till tomorrow.
Did you disconnect the stator leads first? Checked one lead at a time with respect to ground? If so, time to blow taps for the stator and join the club. Sorry.

When you can, return that analog meter and get a dmm. Then check your r/r before you fire up a new stator in there or you may be doing it again. Pretty sure my r/r went and took the stator with it. They were both 13 + years old.

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)

Last edited by 93VN750; 11-26-2006 at 09:16 AM.
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post #8 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 09:20 AM
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Buzz, when your finger heals, try to get readings a couple more times. I have had a really hard time getting the leads in there to check the resistance - I remember someone else posting a similar problem, and CEGodsey saying something like, "Just jam them in there." It still could be that your stator's fried, but give it a few more tries.

And, yeah, 40-70 volts is what you want to get with your engine running.

If your stator bit it, looks like you, Jon, and I will all being doing engine pulls in the next couple o' weeks!!

C
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post #9 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crobins365
Buzz, when your finger heals, try to get readings a couple more times. I have had a really hard time getting the leads in there to check the resistance - I remember someone else posting a similar problem, and CEGodsey saying something like, "Just jam them in there." It still could be that your stator's fried, but give it a few more tries.

And, yeah, 40-70 volts is what you want to get with your engine running.

If your stator bit it, looks like you, Jon, and I will all being doing engine pulls in the next couple o' weeks!!
Mine put out 40 -70 Vac unloaded too, still, if it's shorted to ground, it's toast. Current takes the path of least resistance, in the stator's case when shorted, right to the case (ground). That's why the open circuit voltage test for the stator is not as important as it's insulation (from ground).

But Cindy is right, make sure that you have good connections for the test, though, a short (zero ohms) is hard to mistake for anything else in this case.

I might have my motor out today. Decided to pull it completely out so I can clean it up well before putting it back in. Areas of the cylinder heads are pretty bad.

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
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post #10 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 11:59 AM
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you really need a Digi meter(just the standard 100M Ohm, 1-20VDC, 1-150 VAC).... the stator leads should read in the market of .4-.6 ohms. this is the resistance of the wire. if you get a solid '1', that means u have a broken wire somewhere. if you get much lower then .4 like .2 or .1 then you know ur windings are shorting in themself, and it may not short to ground. Also check for resistance to ground. you should get a '1'. if there is the smallest resistance, you have an issue... check both hot and cold. also make sure the stator is disconnected. if this is all good, then check the voltages. you should read about 8 VAC at idle. and at 5 rmp you should be getting in the market of 60-80VAC. If all checks out, do the fault finding guide for the R/R unit. In most cases it shorts, but there are some cases where it can just burn a component in the R/R and you get no voltage from it at all....

I hope its just a fuse, as stator failures i've noticed occur a lot less durring the winter.

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Currently Installed
nat'l cycle deflector shield
westco 12v30 MF, 30A/h w/ 350 CCA's w/ custom box
TOC stator cover w/ Frankenstator mod!
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Soon to have (own or on order)
TOC ACCT's
Mez's 110-FRT 170/80-Rear
Custom rear fender and tail light
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