Engine Pull Question... - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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Engine Pull Question...

Can the carbs stay on when pulling the engine?

Clymer says no, shop manual says no, looking at it says yes.

Any tips from experience will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Jon

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 11:40 AM
 
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I've pulled mine with the carbs on and with them off. I think the biggest clearance issue is to unbolt the wiring connector bracket above the air box. Another trick is to pick UP the front of the engine before trying to lower it at the rear. This seems to prevent the habit of the engine falling on knees.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 11:57 AM
 
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yes the carbs can definetly stay on during motor pull...just be sure all linkage is disconnected first...I think that is the reason they say to pull the carbs b4...linkage is a little tricky to remove..do what wwmkwood says about lifting up on front of motor first...but remember this...the motor comes out much easier if you have your knee underneath, or at least your helpers knee...lmao
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice, glad I asked, carbs don't come off (or go on) easy.

Guess I have to run down to Wally's and get a mannequin so I can put it's knee under the engine!

Jon

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Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
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Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 05:06 PM
 
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also its good to do what I neglected to do.....label the motor mount bolts, as to which one goes where....I haven't looked in the manual for that as yet but hopefully it will show...I was very careful to label everything else to make assembly that much easier...but when it came to them I think the knee pain took control...........love the mannequin idea...maybe DMAG should add that 1 to the verses lol
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 06:50 PM
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i always label everything... i tag it with masking tape....
also it helped me alot when i relized i can remove the top motormount bracket from the frame.... i spent 2 hours fighting, then saw that... took it off and baam out it came...

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-25-2006, 09:03 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrashLord
yes the carbs can definetly stay on during motor pull...just be sure all linkage is disconnected first...I think that is the reason they say to pull the carbs b4...linkage is a little tricky to remove
Ditto. IIRC the top linkage is a b!tch while the carbs are still on the bike. Otherwise I see no reason for this. It's also easier to take the carbs on and off once the engine is out. It took me about an hour or two to remove the carbs, while the engine was still in, about 5 minutes to put it back on once the engine was out of the bike. Also I bent up one of the hose clamps while removing it! Definitely better to remove the engine first.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 05:41 PM
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Just be careful on the reinstall if the carbs are back on. I managed to dislocate them just enough that the bike wouldn't run but they looked OK upon casual inspection. There was just enough of a gap or leak between the carbs and the cylinder intakes that it wouldn't run.
Also, do be aware that this engine has a very strong magnetic attraction to knees as has been mentioned. Trashlord is not the only one to run afoul of this phenomenon.

Jim W
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 07:53 PM
 
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I've pulled the motor twice now with the carbs attached. My only word of advice is to reattach the throttle cables while the motor is going back in, before it's completely back in place. The first time I didn't have much of a problem, but the second time it took me over an hour and a half with needle-nose pliers and a long screwdriver to get the cables reattached to the carb.

As for dropping the motor on your knees -- a Harbor Freight ATV lift makes the job much easier. A short length of 2x4 under the front lifting pad gives the engine the proper cant to slide right out.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhavasy
-- a Harbor Freight ATV lift makes the job much easier. A short length of 2x4 under the front lifting pad gives the engine the proper cant to slide right out.
Glad to here of someone using one of these for engine removal. That's what I'll be using. Though mine's not the Horror Fright brand (several bad experiences w/ them) but it's the same thing, an ATV/motorcycle lift.

Can the linkage stay inplace if just tilting the engine for a stator replacement?
Sounds like it would be alot nicer if it can.


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