Stator Failures - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-16-2006, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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Stator Failures

As a newbie I don't want to beat a dead horse but has anyone been able to put their finger on the cause of these stator failures. Are there things I should avoid to prevent a failure? thanks.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-16-2006, 07:09 PM
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yes.. main cause is poor mantinance.... that is the leading cause of premature failure. anything after 10k is typically due to over heating, and breakdown of insulation on the windings.... i am addressing this in frankenstator that should be in production around march....

'04 Vn750
Currently Installed
nat'l cycle deflector shield
westco 12v30 MF, 30A/h w/ 350 CCA's w/ custom box
TOC stator cover w/ Frankenstator mod!
R/R relo

Soon to have (own or on order)
TOC ACCT's
Mez's 110-FRT 170/80-Rear
Custom rear fender and tail light
Givi hard bags w/ custom rear turn signals


Band Engineer/Webmaster for Josey Contreras Tejano Band
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-16-2006, 09:39 PM
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Couple of other things, wet type battery which can lead to r/r failure which can lead to stator failure.

Mines gone, going to be replacing it shortly.

Get a good MF AGM type battery A S A P!

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-16-2006, 11:38 PM
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Making the electrical crash as soft as possible...

Quote:
Originally Posted by engine89
As a newbie I don't want to beat a dead horse but has anyone been able to put their finger on the cause of these stator failures. Are there things I should avoid to prevent a failure? thanks.
Best action to take is this:
Immediately mount your R/R out in the cool air--get it out from under the battery where all that heat is.
Next, order a new stator to have for standby. I think Electrosport's stator is better than Kawasaki's OE. But I think I've found Kawasaki's R/R to be better than Electrosport's--as long as it's mounted outside in the cool air.
Your OE stator is going down sooner or later--probably sooner. (Kawasaki's electrical engineering dept should be hung up on a flagpole by their . . .! And their management who never fixed the problem for twenty years...!)
You might also order a new stator cover, then send it to the outfit that redoes them so that the stator can be easily replaced. (Look elsewhere on this site for that info.) Keep that on standby too so that you have a minimum of downtime. I spent three weeks of perfect riding weather waiting for parts and time to pull my engine.
Before any of this, put 20-amp fuses in the stator leads so that if the R/R burns out (like mine did) it won't take the stator with it. Actually, it might be the R/R that is knocking out the stators, I don't know.
Another good idea is to put a voltmeter in right now. That way you can see it when it goes down and you won't be 90 miles out alongside a riverbank in the boondocks when your battery goes dead--like happened to me! You can see the voltage die and you can get back to civilization before you sputter to a dead stop--out of cell phone range.
(I know precisely the spot I'd like to take Kawasaki's lead electrical engineer on a friendly bike ride--him riding a newly broken in VN 750 with 18,000 miles on it! OOPS! Correction, 18,000 was the ACCT. The stator was 11,000.)
The bike is a great bike. Enjoy it. But when the electrical system crashes, just fix it better than OE and go on your merry way. That's part of the fun of the game anyway.

Last edited by vn750angky; 11-16-2006 at 11:42 PM.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-17-2006, 03:30 AM
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One other thing that can contribute to stator failure is add-on electronics. Don't add anything unless ya really need it. And if ya really need the extras, consider LED signal lights. That'll free up a good bit of power.


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


"When life throws you curves,
Aim for the apex."

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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-17-2006, 05:21 PM
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sorry i didnt get to expand on my first post. was in a hurry at work.

Batteries gone bad seem to be the number one cause it causes the stator to over heat and fry its insuation causing a short... get a MF batt asap.

the next cause is r/r over heating and failing, causing the same as the battery. this is fixed with the r/r relocation.

3rd is cause from what is known as heat soak. when the engine sits in traffic, the oil gets hot enough to burn the insualtion on the windings causing a short. this is fixed by know your area and alternate routes...

My frankenstator project is addressing the overheating issue, by using a higher grade insulation. It is also producing more amps, and a full charge at idle. with it i will also offer a r/r relocation. as i mentioned in my earlier post, should be ready by spring. I am currently running it and have a lil over 1k miles on it sofar. Well that was untill my TOC cover (this is the modified cover) had a leak in it... but TOC is fixing the issue.

also good point hyperbuzzin on the led tail lights... depending what you get, it can free up 15 watts on the running side and almost a solid 40 durring braking...

'04 Vn750
Currently Installed
nat'l cycle deflector shield
westco 12v30 MF, 30A/h w/ 350 CCA's w/ custom box
TOC stator cover w/ Frankenstator mod!
R/R relo

Soon to have (own or on order)
TOC ACCT's
Mez's 110-FRT 170/80-Rear
Custom rear fender and tail light
Givi hard bags w/ custom rear turn signals


Band Engineer/Webmaster for Josey Contreras Tejano Band
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-17-2006, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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I had a 1978 honda cb200t for many years. It had more lights than this bike, never gave me any elec. problems. What gives man?
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-17-2006, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engine89
I had a 1978 honda cb200t for many years. It had more lights than this bike, never gave me any elec. problems. What gives man?
the cooling system on these bikes dont cool the oil very well, and cheap stator materials as mentioned before... i figure they are using polyester coated wire which is good for about 250-300 degs.... a hot summer day can easily toast that..

'04 Vn750
Currently Installed
nat'l cycle deflector shield
westco 12v30 MF, 30A/h w/ 350 CCA's w/ custom box
TOC stator cover w/ Frankenstator mod!
R/R relo

Soon to have (own or on order)
TOC ACCT's
Mez's 110-FRT 170/80-Rear
Custom rear fender and tail light
Givi hard bags w/ custom rear turn signals


Band Engineer/Webmaster for Josey Contreras Tejano Band
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-17-2006, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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It seems to me that adding the volt meter is the best way to deal with this problem in the short term. Can it simply be wired directly to the battery,or is there a better place for it?
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-17-2006, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engine89
I had a 1978 honda cb200t for many years. It had more lights than this bike, never gave me any elec. problems. What gives man?
I'm just guessing but, it probably didn't rev as high as the Vulcans do, which would cause less heat, resulting in less electrical problems.
Quote:
Originally Posted by engine89
Can it simply be wired directly to the battery?
Yes, but you'd want to have the meter activated by a relay which is powered only when the key is turned on. Otherwise, you'll be drawing power even when the key is shut off.


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


"When life throws you curves,
Aim for the apex."

Author Unknown

Last edited by hyperbuzzin; 11-17-2006 at 05:57 PM.
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