Turns Over But Won't Start Without A Jump - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-18-2013, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Turns Over But Won't Start Without A Jump

My 86 VN750-A2 will turn over just fine, but will not start unless I jump connect another battery, and then it starts immediately.

It runs great once running. Idles at a little over 1000 and is responsive to the throttle without hesitation. It charges the battery after a nice ride, but even with the battery at full charge, the starter turns normally, but will not start unless I jump it with another battery.

It does this whether cold or warm.

I replaced the battery and still have the same problem.

I'm hoping there is a simple solution to the problem, but I'd settle for whatever solution will fix it.

Does anyone have any ideas on what to check?

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-18-2013, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1970swbc10 View Post
My 86 VN750-A2 will turn over just fine, but will not start unless I jump connect another battery, and then it starts immediately.

It runs great once running. Idles at a little over 1000 and is responsive to the throttle without hesitation. It charges the battery after a nice ride, but even with the battery at full charge, the starter turns normally, but will not start unless I jump it with another battery.

It does this whether cold or warm.

I replaced the battery and still have the same problem.

I'm hoping there is a simple solution to the problem, but I'd settle for whatever solution will fix it.

Does anyone have any ideas on what to check?

Thanks in advance.
My first thought....
Starter is pulling excessive amps......
Williamtech +1

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
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Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
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Dampers went out @ 13+K !
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-18-2013, 04:23 PM
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What battery did you go with? Should use a gell cell starts easier with that. You might want to look into the relay mod for the coils its an easy mod to do your self. Also chech you voltage out put when you get her running may be a charging issue there.

Best of luck with her
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-18-2013, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replys TheEDGE and WilliamTech.

I did get a $110 Gell Cell, but that had no effect over the fully charged liquid battery.

I was reading a little about the relay mod and will give that a try this weekend.

Not sure what to do about the possibility of the starter pulling excessive amps.

It sure is a bummer not being able to shut her off on a ride, knowing it won't start again without a jump. Carrying an extra 12 volt battery and jumper cables is a bit much.

Thanks again for the replys.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-18-2013, 06:07 PM
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Need an amp draw test on the starter and voltage readings on the battery and charging system.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-18-2013, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
Need an amp draw test on the starter and voltage readings on the battery and charging system.
At Auto Zone / Pep Boys etc. -Don't they sell a cheap amp gauge which slips over a cable,
......not the most accurate, but, when compared to proper draw per spec, would provide a ball park reading.... should indicate a problem or not.


Other option is to remove starter, have it tested at an automotive parts store.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-18-2013, 07:29 PM
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If the parts store battery tester is up to the task, it should have an amp draw tester built in. It has to have settings for the motorcycle battery, going down around 250 amps, they could load test the battery (simulated starter draw), and then check the starter amp draw just by cranking the engine.

I don't think the bench test for starter amp draw is accurate, since they can't put a load on the starter. Some do just fine freewheeling on the bench, but still can't turn the crank.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-18-2013, 10:36 PM
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another thing to check... the battery box to engine ground... those get loose and cause hard start problems because the engine sits on rubber isolators, so you won't get a very good ground to the starter
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-19-2013, 10:47 AM
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My 2002 did the same thing when I got it. Iridium plugs cured it right up.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-19-2013, 02:22 PM
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Do you have a voltmeter or multimeter? If so, you can measure how much voltage you're getting at the coils. Simply put a test lead to ground and the other on the positive lead to each coil. This is with the key on the "on" position. If the voltage is considerably lower than battery voltage, the coil relay mod will help you and probably fix the problem.

I had a similar problem with my bike, when I measured voltage at the coils I was getting very very very low voltage. Did the coil relay mod and it started right up!

I don't remember jumping it with a car battery though, so I don't know if it's exactly the same problem, but measuring the voltage at the coils will tell you if the mod will solve your problems.

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