Spark Plug Wire info needed... - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 08-07-2004, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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Question Spark Plug Wire info needed...

I know someone within our group posted the type of plugs and wire needed for replacing the wires. I need that info.

I washed my bike today with a pressure washer at the car wash and on the way home I started to lose power in the rear cylinder. I limped home the 2 miles and in my garage I discovered that I was arcing from my right rear plug boot to the engine. I disassembled the plug wire and dried everything out, so it is working fine now. But, I also discovered that my weather boots are getting long in the tooth and need to be replaced. I believe that they are the original wires, on the bike since 1990.

So, I need the info and the knowledge since I have never done anything like this before.

I would like to do something other then black wire. Red maybe or maybe braided stainless mesh. Advise and suggestions are needed, seeing that I have never done this before...

How hard it it and what do I need???


Evan Breyn ~ The Bulldog
http://www.bulldogsbike.com
2006 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic FLHTCUI ~ The Big Black Bitch ~ 26,000 miles.
2002 Kawasaki Nomad 1500 ~ The Red Dog ~ Traded in at 22,000 miles of smiles (purchased new 10/05 / Traded in 6/12).
1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 ~ Black Betty ~ 34,999.7 miles
VROC ~v~ 485
McHenry County Road Pirates
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 08-08-2004, 02:11 AM
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Re: Spark Plug Wire info needed...

BTW.. if you are looking for colored wires.. check an auto performance shop, the usually have several colors to choose from to trick out your wires *S*

From the yahoo group..
To: [email protected]
From: "Red Baron (Chris Eggleston)" <[email protected]> View Contact Details
Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2004 23:18:21 -0400
Subject: Re: [VN750] Spark plug wire replacement info needed...


Here is Joe's info. I used it and got the parts from Dennis Kirk.

Job is not hard, but it is a bit tight to get the 8mm wire in. I found that using dielectric grease helped to remove and put the cap thingies on, and to put the new boots on the wire. I have no idea what they are called but they help compress the wire and lock it into place behind the coil caps.
Your front coil is on left side, just remove left cover in front of tank. Your back coil is in front of battery box. I removed seat and left/right side covers to get at it. I recall at the time that I did not have to remove either the seat or the side covers but I don't know which. Getting at the coil caps is tight work. I had to mark the wires to make sure I shoved them into the coils far enough.

RB



-------- Original Message -------- Subject: [VN750] Viagro's Answer to: New plug wires
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 23:32:06 -0400
From: Joe <[email protected]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
Organization: http://www.yunx.com
To: [email protected]
References: <[email protected]>


Sorry for the subject line... i can't track all the eMails these days so
I'm changing them as needed for my own benefit.

Here is something I sent someone else - and will gladly send you WITH WIRE
if you wish. I just need an address. 8 mm wire too. Bright yellow.
Limited supply.

You should consider buying NGK plug ends if you haven't already. They are
great looking and my directions are based on using them.

Dennis Kirk:
[email protected] or 1-800-328-9280

2 Part# 20306 - XD05F Spark Plug Cap $3.30 a piece.
2 Part# 20789 - NGK Spark Plug Cap/LD05FP $4.80 a piece.

Here are the wire lengths you will need:

2 x 11.5" long
1 x 14.5" long
1 x 20.0" long

Measure your old wires to make sure it'll work. I am sending 60.0" inches
of wire in a single piece which should cover the whole project with some to
spare.

I cut my wire with a sharp scissors and stripped off the yellow insulation
so that the wire slipped into the coil easily. If you can get it to slip
into the coil with the yellow intact, that's even better. Take the rubber
"O" looking thing along with it's plastic cap (if intact) and use them on
this new wire. I had to squeeze the wire into these "O" shaped holders on
the coil end with a very small screwdriver. I pushed the "O" onto the wire
as far as I could (about 1/10 of an inch) and then "stuffed" the yellow
insulation under the "O" thing. This "O" thing holds the wire in place
along with the cap that screws onto the coil. Obviously, put the wire all
the way into the coil with about 1/8th inch of room between the "O" thing
and the edge of the coil. Then use the screw cap to tighten the wire down
and into the coil.

The plug ends "screw" onto the wire if you buy the NGK I told you about.
Just make sure you have the proper parts at hand and already slid up the
wire before you do this or you will have to unscrew the ends and start over.
The "short" ends have a tighter rubber seal that is a pain in the tuckus.
Be prepared to work that baby on by hand for a bit.

As for payment - like I said, none necessary. www.youthelate.com or the
"pay it forward" method of guilt removal should suffice if you feel the
absolute need to be stubborn about this. <grin> See the movie "Pay it
Forward' if you don't understand.

Joe - V#8013 - '86 VN750 - joe @ yunx .com
Northern, NJ
Ask me about "The Ride" on July 31, '04:
http://www.youthelate.com/the_ride.htm

Born once - Die twice. Born twice - Die only once. Your choice...

Dianna
Conway, AR
Patriot Guard Rider
2000 VN750 Sere (Serendipity)
1990 GL1500 (Ole Blue)
1986 VN750 EVie (project bike, heavy custom)
VROC # 11628 / 25000-H
ARVROC # 12 Coordinator and Crowd Control
OKVROC # 18 (H)
TNVROC # 45 (H)
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