My 1st Stator check out - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-12-2013, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
shark88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Central, PA
Posts: 2,484
iTrader: (27)
 
Garage
My 1st Stator check out

OK, so last year one of my friends at my previous job said his stator went bad on his 86 VN750. He didn't get a chance to bring it over last year so finally he was able to drop it off today. Went over sticky on testing and is sure looks bad to me.
Checking the voltage at the battery at idle I had 11.8 and when rev'd up to 4,000 I was getting around 12.1, so on to the stator test.

With meter set to 200 Ohms I'm getting between 7.6 & 7.7 across all 3 wires to the engine case.
With the engine running & meter set at VAC 200 I'm getting mid to low 20's between each lead and it should be 40 to 70 VAC.

So looks like I'm going with the engine pull route, since I've done it before and then get TPE to do it for him. Hoping I'll get him on the road again before the 1st week of June.

So what's the easiest way to pull the R/R? I was thinking of pulling the battery box, but if I pull the engine I have to remove the exhaust anyway so that might be easier.

"Show me a man who makes no mistakes, and I'll show you a man who doesn't do things." Theodore Roosevelt."

2007 Victory Kingpin
Current projects - 1986 VN750 & 1988 EL250
shark88 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-12-2013, 08:01 PM
Prowling Tiger
 
blazblu82's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,048
iTrader: (4)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shark88 View Post
OK, so last year one of my friends at my previous job said his stator went bad on his 86 VN750. He didn't get a chance to bring it over last year so finally he was able to drop it off today. Went over sticky on testing and is sure looks bad to me.
Checking the voltage at the battery at idle I had 11.8 and when rev'd up to 4,000 I was getting around 12.1, so on to the stator test.

With meter set to 200 Ohms I'm getting between 7.6 & 7.7 across all 3 wires to the engine case.
With the engine running & meter set at VAC 200 I'm getting mid to low 20's between each lead and it should be 40 to 70 VAC.

So looks like I'm going with the engine pull route, since I've done it before and then get TPE to do it for him. Hoping I'll get him on the road again before the 1st week of June.

So what's the easiest way to pull the R/R? I was thinking of pulling the battery box, but if I pull the engine I have to remove the exhaust anyway so that might be easier.
What I did was unbolted the battery box and unbolted and moved the JB. I was able to tilt the bottom of the box towards me where I could get a 10mm wrench in there. I tried to get at it from underneath, but the swing arm was too close to get a wrench to the bolt.

I only understand what I don't understand.
blazblu82 is offline  
post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-12-2013, 08:45 PM
bamafrankie
 
bamafrankie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: south east alabama
Posts: 83
iTrader: (1)
 
I JUST REPLACED MY R/R AND I RELOCATED MINE IN THE PROCESS. I JUST UNPLUGGED MINE AND INSTALLED NEW R/R IN NEW LOCATION AND DRILLED OUT THE BOLTS TO THE OLD ONE
I JUST HAD CHARGING TROUBLES AND I HAD MID/LOW 20vac AL LOW RPM BECAUSE I COULDN'T GET IT TO REV HIGHER REPLACED BATTERY NOW ITS DOING FINE I'M GETTING 13plus VOLTS AT IDLE AND OVER 14 AT 3K. JUST FOOD FOR THOUGHT

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
bamafrankie is offline  
 
post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-12-2013, 10:06 PM
Members who have donated towards server costs
 
denny6006's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: InezKY pop.600
Posts: 5,236
iTrader: (9)
     
Garage
When I had to replace mine I just relocated it and didn't even bother to take the old one out. Even if you put it back where it came from drilling the bolts out seems easy enough and you can put new uncorroded bolts back in easier,




If you see it on my bike I did it
VROC#30324
92 vn750(sold)
Current ride 05 1500 Classic FI
lovin' the new scoot



Quote:
"When all is said and done,usually more is said than done" UNK
Click on one x and drag to the other to read between them.

Psalm 40:1...
XI waited patiently for the Lord; and he turned unto me, and heard my cry. X
denny6006 is offline  
post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-12-2013, 10:22 PM
Senior Member
 
Okiebezer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: OKC
Posts: 1,011
iTrader: (2)
 
I drilled mine out from top and moved it over by the left side passenger foot peg. Not too bad, didn't take too long.

I used part of a 2" x 1/8" aluminum flat stock piece that I had left over from making coasters. Also used a conduit bracket from electrical dept at HD, I think was about a 1" or 3/4" piece. Some clear rubber tubing I had slipped over the bracket portion and secured to the frame. Very sturdy.
Okiebezer is offline  
post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-13-2013, 02:45 PM
Senior Member
 
kc2dgq's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 3,350
iTrader: (13)
 
Garage
When i relocated mine, I just unbolted the battery box and tilted it so I could get a wrench on the R/R.

It wasn't that hard to get to honestly.
kc2dgq is offline  
post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-13-2013, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
shark88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Central, PA
Posts: 2,484
iTrader: (27)
 
Garage
So does the plug come right out of the R/R? I was trying to pull the plug off last night and it seems to hang up. Is there a clip holding it? I plan on putting a new one on and just might leave the old one there.

"Show me a man who makes no mistakes, and I'll show you a man who doesn't do things." Theodore Roosevelt."

2007 Victory Kingpin
Current projects - 1986 VN750 & 1988 EL250
shark88 is offline  
post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-13-2013, 04:33 PM
Captive New Yorker....
 
peterherrm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Marlboro, NY
Posts: 264
iTrader: (1)
 
Send a message via AIM to peterherrm
You've got to squeeze the tab to get the plug out. My bike is a 94 and I think I had the original R/R in there, so the plug was really stuck in there. Took a while to get it out.



Pete Herrmann
1994 Vulcan 750 40K on the clock and counting....

Bought 4/2011 28k Miles,
New Rick's Motorsports R/R
Tim Parrot Stator
Tuxedo Mod
KAW Saddlebag/signal relocation brackets
NGK Iridium Plugs
TOC MCCT's
peterherrm is offline  
post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 09:02 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 67
iTrader: (0)
 
parts

are you going to buy this?

ttp://www.ebay.com/itm/STATOR-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-KAWASAKI-VN750-VULCAN-750-1986-2006-MOTORCYCLE-/280988744272?item=280988744272&vxp=mtr

saw that in the parts page here. I need it . Should I prefer Electrosport instead of this ? This is a good price. R/R alone at any Kawa distributor $170. Anyone know about Caltric quality?
GENERA1 is offline  
post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 09:31 AM
Members who have donated towards server costs
 
JM2001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Rochester, New York
Posts: 1,803
iTrader: (1)
 
I would go with this Mosfet one. A little more but way better.

http://www.roadstercycle.com/

JM2001

" Loud Pipes Risk Rights "

2001 Vulcan 750
marbled
TOC upgrade on ACCT
Air/fuel mixture set to 2 1/2 out
rectifier relocated
splines lubed
iridiums
decals removed
upgraded mirrors
Pic up coil mod done
degoated
All LED lighting
Upgraded Mosfet rectifier
JM2001 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Once registered, your User Name"cannot be changed". We can make exceptions within 7 days, but after that, it is set in stone.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome