Regulator - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-03-2013, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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Regulator

Will this regulator work for our bike?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/85-1986-87...item35c2994160

1992 Vulcan 750.
Ear shaved and re-jetted.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-03-2013, 04:48 PM
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Will this regulator work for our bike?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/85-1986-87...item35c2994160
I don't know but why buy a used one for a total cost of $ 105.40 when you can buy the best new for $ 126.95?

http://www.roadstercycle.com/

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" Loud Pipes Risk Rights "

2001 Vulcan 750
marbled
TOC upgrade on ACCT
Air/fuel mixture set to 2 1/2 out
rectifier relocated
splines lubed
iridiums
decals removed
upgraded mirrors
Pic up coil mod done
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-03-2013, 06:02 PM
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I got mine on eBay from a ZX10R Ninja and it worked great. I got it for $39 shipped.

1985 VN700 unknown mileage (over 33K)

AGM Battery
Iridium spark plugs
NGK wires and caps
Relocated R/R
Marbled
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-03-2013, 09:39 PM
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Wow, that seller is making a killing on shipping! I mailed my stator for about $8, insured for $100 too.

I have the kit from Roadstercycle, it's a MOSFET design which handles the current better, has larger cooling area, and the kit bypasses the factory wiring which is too small. Relocated it behind the left side cover on a bracket I made from an aluminum frying pan. Jack will also work with you if you have any problems.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-04-2013, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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I actually got one like the pictured one for free from a friend but wasn't sure it would work for my bike.

1992 Vulcan 750.
Ear shaved and re-jetted.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-04-2013, 08:33 AM
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I agree 100%. Installed this on mine with new stator. I'm wondering if the OEM RR was overworking the stator causing it to fail prematurely (25k mi.) Guess I'll find out.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-04-2013, 01:00 PM
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Well yes, it will work. Just need to figure out which pins are for the yellow wires, then which pins are positive output, ground and monitor.

If the harness connector fits directly on it, it's probably the same as the stock unit. Still, you should check with a multimeter to make sure. Also with the multimeter (volt meter) to see if you are getting good output to the battery from it once it's installed.

1985 VN700 unknown mileage (over 33K)

AGM Battery
Iridium spark plugs
NGK wires and caps
Relocated R/R
Marbled
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-04-2013, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
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I agree 100%. Installed this on mine with new stator. I'm wondering if the OEM RR was overworking the stator causing it to fail prematurely (25k mi.) Guess I'll find out.
I don't see how. The stator is all output AC. The R/R is the same thing as the R/R used in alternators. The R/R's only purpose is to convert AC to DC and regulate the voltage coming off the stator. So, when you find AC coming off a car alternator, the generator portion is still good, just the R/R died.

I only understand what I don't understand.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-04-2013, 01:23 PM
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Lightbulb

You might be able to google the part number and eventually dig up a pinout diagram. Or just find what bike it goes on, then dig up the wiring diagram.

The R/R also has to dispose of the excess current when there is any, that's why they get hot, they're shunting the excess to ground. The stock R/R is a shunt type, and then there's the MOSFET type. MOSFET = Metal-Oxide Semiconductor Field-Effect Transistor

The way Jack at Roadstercycle explained it to me, we're better off using most of the available current, leaving just enough to keep the battery happy. If we switch to all LEDs or other power saving methods, the R/R has to handle a lot more leftover current because the stator runs at full output all the time. Finding that balance makes a voltmeter on the dash pretty handy.

Hmm, AC voltage out of the stator... How about an AC voltage headlight? I'm sure an electrical guru could come up with a way to wire that. Or just a pair of AC volt deer lights for when there's no oncoming traffic. :q
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-04-2013, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
You might be able to google the part number and eventually dig up a pinout diagram. Or just find what bike it goes on, then dig up the wiring diagram.

The R/R also has to dispose of the excess current when there is any, that's why they get hot, they're shunting the excess to ground. The stock R/R is a shunt type, and then there's the MOSFET type. MOSFET = Metal-Oxide Semiconductor Field-Effect Transistor

The way Jack at Roadstercycle explained it to me, we're better off using most of the available current, leaving just enough to keep the battery happy. If we switch to all LEDs or other power saving methods, the R/R has to handle a lot more leftover current because the stator runs at full output all the time. Finding that balance makes a voltmeter on the dash pretty handy.

Hmm, AC voltage out of the stator... How about an AC voltage headlight? I'm sure an electrical guru could come up with a way to wire that. Or just a pair of AC volt deer lights for when there's no oncoming traffic. :q
When checking voltages from the stator wires, the voltmeter must be in AC.

Stator > R/R > Junction Box. Battery is wired in there somewhere.

I only understand what I don't understand.
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