I am happy to report that after your guys' feedback and a trip to Advance Auto Parts and my local bike shop, I was finally able to mount my after market signals on the license plate bracket and strap on my new saddlebags!
It was a lot of trial and error to get up to this point, but thankfully I maybe only "wasted" 10 or 15 bucks on certain parts that didn't work out. Here is the breakdown of my final setup for anyone interested:
1 set of Vikingbags saddlebags plus included supports and signal relocation kit free with purchase: http://www.vikingbags.com/Kawasaki-V...-7757-prd1.htm
1 set of Chrome LED turn signals (as the OEM signals did not fit the license plate bracket): http://www.ebay.com/itm/310654393715...84.m1497.l2649
I did need an impact driver from Harbor Freight in order to loosen both the helmet locks and the turn signal screws, but that may not be necessary for everyone. Other than that, the included directions from Vikingbags are pretty straightforward- I went with the throw-over mounting option but that may change in the future.
Then it gets down to the electricals:
As you already know, I needed to make some extension cables to reach down to the license plate bracket. I picked up 18g wire from Advance Auto Parts (had the best price in my area), and then headed to my local bike shop for help with the connector terminals. These guys were great and if you're in the Prince George's county area, I can't recommend Clinton Cycles more highly! I was directed to their service area where one of their guys supplied me with 4 male and female bullet connectors and 4 butt connectors, and he walked me through what I should do to fashion these cables. All completely free of charge
Both the connectors on the bike AND on the turn signals were really awkward sizes that neither of us could find a match for, so here's how I did it:
I replaced the connector terminals on the turn signals with the male bullet connector to coincide with the female connectors going on my DIY extension cables. To connect the extension cables to the bike, I cut away the OEM terminals on the bike for the same reason, and spliced them using butt connectors. If you're going to try this, pick up a few extra of each connector, as your crimps may not be as solid as you first think and feeding stripped cable back into an already crimped connector is a pain. Also, be sure to test that you have the right wires hooked up to each other before you crimp because you only have so much real estate on the bike end to make up for those kinds of mistakes. Thankfully, I only had to experience the first problem but was able to overcome it. I ran the cables out through the passenger handholds and behind the bags to the signals on the license plate brackets.
Results: It almost looks like I knew what I was doing! I will take pics later since the sun's already going down, but the wires hide away behind the saddle bags for the most part. The signals work great and look great. Since they're down by the license plate now I have them angled ever-so-slightly upward to be pointed more at driver's eye level than at the eye level of a cat. I figure it can't hurt my visibility since LEDs can be unintentionally directional.
Mounting the signals and plate bracket gets a little tight against the rear fender, so your socket set may be too big and you'll need to resort to an old-fashioned wrench to get that squared away.
The only real quirk is that the signals blink at the increased rate, so it seems that the bike thinks my signals are malfunctioning. I believe that's due to the fact that the LED signals don't provide the same feedback that the OEM bulbs do which tell the bike that all is well with the signals (I don't know the technical details on that, but I think there's a thread elsewhere that explains it). Not a big deal IMO, since I do a pre-flight before every ride anyway. If the signals don't work, I'll know
Whew! I'm glad it's over, but it was a hell of a learning experience and a damned good confidence builder for a rookie like me.