soldering stator wires - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question soldering stator wires

During my day long trip to the shop today (where I got to watch a Harley clutch being replaced, a race car having its carbs synched and its valves adjusted) I had them look at the connections from my stator to my r/r. They suggested that I have them soldered (sp?) instead of the butt connectors replaced. I hope I didn't BUFU it by having them do this! They said it would keep the melt-down from happening again, and that they do a lot of Goldwings the same way.

Any comments by the peanut gallery on what advantages this has over the connectors?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 10:22 PM
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Just that the connectors will eventually start to corrode and will weaken your voltage going through the corrosion (resistance). The soldered connections should be trouble free.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fergy
The soldered connections should be trouble free.

Wooohooo! I did something right! Glad to hear it Fergy.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 11:29 PM
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Yeah, OK. I'll go with Ferg's answer.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-16-2006, 01:35 AM
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yep... in case if anyone wants to do this themself this is what you need.

1) silver soder from radio shack (the lower stuff breaks up to easy)
2) a >15 watt sodering iron (30 watt works great)
3) liquid electrical tape or any type of expoy, potting compound or you could even try RTV silicone


i wish they did a hard wire from the R/R in the first place... would save so much time and money

Take the wire and place some through the hole in the R/R spade and the other wrap around the terminal... then heat the wire with the iron. place the soder on the wire and let the wire melt the soder, not the iron melt the soder. Do this for each connection and your set.

**note, you should only have to hold the iron to the connection for a few seconds (<@10), holding it too long can burn the insulation on the wire, indicated by a burnt plastic smell!

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Last edited by Hizzo3; 09-16-2006 at 01:38 AM.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-16-2006, 01:37 AM
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Better than the liquid tape is heat swhrink tubing, thats what I used and it is waterproof and last longer than liqiod tape or rtv.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-16-2006, 01:58 AM
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OK, I'm confused already. Everytime I hold the soldering iron, I get a burnt fleshy smell. And it is really hot. Well, it was only really hot the first time. I can't feel the heat now.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-16-2006, 02:01 AM
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Try turnig it around

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