New stator....regulator?? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-14-2006, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
 
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Angry New stator....regulator??

Having the stator replaced in my 05 with a mere 5200 miles on it. Could I be reasonably sure that a competent certified mechanic would know to check the regulator when the new stator gets installed? It could have caused the stator to go in the first place, right?

First bike, learning as I go.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-14-2006, 10:48 AM
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Right, the r/r could have killed your stator. You can check it yourself, after the stator is installed. You'll need a volt/ohm meter.

Get the mechanic to inspect it and see why it fizzled out on you. This is the first I've heard of such a new model frying its stator. When you get it replaced, ask for the old stator back. I'd like Hizzo to take a look at it. Oh, and make sure they replace it with a Kawasaki brand, not something else.

2000 A16
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$65 leather saddle bags
Kuryaken grips
relocated R/R
de-badged
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-14-2006, 11:32 AM
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yes, i am with cegodsey. do the check yourself. there is too much error in 'certified' motorcycle mechanics. And i would like to take a look at that stator. i am trying to figure out what is causing them to fail so soon. i know what caused mine to fail at 9k miles in my 04, but that is a single case. If you want, just pm me and we'll exchange info and i will send you s&h.

***Important*** i am more then willing to bet that you have a bad battery though, unless you sit in traffic alot. If you have a wet battery, change it with the stator that you are getting done with a sealed battery. Now if you do sit in traffic alot, you may wanna undertake a relocation for the R/R so that the heat doesnt cause it to fail again. Let us know how it turns out.

'04 Vn750
Currently Installed
nat'l cycle deflector shield
westco 12v30 MF, 30A/h w/ 350 CCA's w/ custom box
TOC stator cover w/ Frankenstator mod!
R/R relo

Soon to have (own or on order)
TOC ACCT's
Mez's 110-FRT 170/80-Rear
Custom rear fender and tail light
Givi hard bags w/ custom rear turn signals


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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-14-2006, 01:17 PM
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Has there been a correlation between corroded connections and failed R/R's or stators? I thought I was seeing that trend.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-14-2006, 07:16 PM
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there is too many variables to rule just one issue as the cause. so far here is a list of what i have seen

1) hot climates and traffic
2) bad r/r (due to heat)
3) bad r/r connection
4) bad battery causes r/r to fry
5) the occasional flywheel rub on the stator causes short


these are all major potential issues that cause the failures. cant just say its always one or the other...

'04 Vn750
Currently Installed
nat'l cycle deflector shield
westco 12v30 MF, 30A/h w/ 350 CCA's w/ custom box
TOC stator cover w/ Frankenstator mod!
R/R relo

Soon to have (own or on order)
TOC ACCT's
Mez's 110-FRT 170/80-Rear
Custom rear fender and tail light
Givi hard bags w/ custom rear turn signals


Band Engineer/Webmaster for Josey Contreras Tejano Band
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 06:38 AM Thread Starter
 
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Hizzo,
After talking to a friend who is a longtime Harley rider/mechanic...I'm leaning toward a faulty r/r having boiled the battery and fried the stator....I just bought a new battery the other day for the bike.
I'll get back to you on that stator


Edit....can you explain that #4 scenario to me?
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R.C.inOhio
Hizzo,
After talking to a friend who is a longtime Harley rider/mechanic...I'm leaning toward a faulty r/r having boiled the battery and fried the stator....I just bought a new battery the other day for the bike.
I'll get back to you on that stator


Edit....can you explain that #4 scenario to me?

Hizzo and cegodsey, see if I learned my lessons from this summer in order to answer the #4 scenario:

The battery is DC and all of the electrical components on the bike suck up the juice from the battery as the bike is running (or not - like if it's sitting in your garage and you forgot to turn the key to 'off' ). The only way to recharge the battery is to generate AC (stator), convert it to DC (rectifier), and then store it back in the battery. If the battery isn't holding its charge, the r/r is working that much harder to try to recharge the system; given where it's located on these bikes (under the battery box, where it can cook), the harder it works, the hotter it gets. And when the r/r gets fried, then "something unimaginable happens to the stator." Well, I think the current from the battery that normally would go through the r/r to the stator is now unregulated, and thereby theoretically sends an infinite amount of current to the stator (thereby blowing it).

That said, the regulator/rectifier set-up is both a "push" and "pull" system, right? It controls the flow of DC from the battery to the stator (push), but also converts the AC flow from the stator back to the battery.

Okay, now someone can correct my folk theory of how our 750 charging systems work (but that's what I took from my summer repair lessons).

C
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 08:50 AM
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That's really good and close. The difference is that the stator puts out to the rectifier/regulator, which in turn puts out to the battery. But how much each puts out depends on what it is putting out to. When the rectifier/regulator shorts, the output of the stator becomes infinite, which heats it up enough to cause it to short internally. (V/R=I, as R goes to 0, I goes to infinity).

The stator produces a lot of AC voltage and some current. The rectifier takes the voltage and converts it to DC. The regulator keeps the voltage less than 15 volts (thereabouts), which in turn charges the battery. In a perfect world, the regulator would be 100 % efficient, and all of the stator's output would be converted. But nothing's perfect, so the regulator's internal resistance converts some of the stator's output to heat.

As to #4, the first paragraph explains it, but here's a more generalized idea. Lets say you have a manual transmission car. You drive the car up to a wall and stomp down on the gas. What's it going to do? If it's a powerful car, it will push against the wall while spinning its tires. Now if you were to suddenly remove the wall, the car would go as fast as it could in whatever gear it was in, all the way up to and past the red line, until the engine blew up. That's a pretty good analogy. The wall is the internal resistance of the rectifier/regulator, the car is the current of the stator.

There is a scenario in which the regulator stops working and sends all the voltage that the stator can make through the rectifier and then to the battery. This is a good way to fry the battery.

2000 A16
Drilled baffles
$65 leather saddle bags
Kuryaken grips
relocated R/R
de-badged
25,000+ original owner miles
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 11:51 AM
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yep...

'04 Vn750
Currently Installed
nat'l cycle deflector shield
westco 12v30 MF, 30A/h w/ 350 CCA's w/ custom box
TOC stator cover w/ Frankenstator mod!
R/R relo

Soon to have (own or on order)
TOC ACCT's
Mez's 110-FRT 170/80-Rear
Custom rear fender and tail light
Givi hard bags w/ custom rear turn signals


Band Engineer/Webmaster for Josey Contreras Tejano Band
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 08:45 PM
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Is this charging system typical of just the vn750 or all motorcycles? What can be done to upgrade it to something more efficient and less prone to failure? Comments
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