Simple charging system troubleshooting. - Page 3 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #21 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-15-2014, 10:29 PM
New to Cruisers
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: West Tennessee
Posts: 34
iTrader: (0)
 
So stupid newbie question. I rode my bike yesterday and it ran fine all day. Parked it and had to drive a car for a bit to take a baseball player to his new team. Came back to pick up my bike and the battery was dead and wouldn't start. Jumped it off and then it died while loading my bag back on it and would start again so jumped it off again and left it hooked up for a bit to charge. About 20 miles down the road my gauges turned off then my headlights went dim, started backfiring and then shut off going down the bypass. Got it jumped off again and got it to my grandparents house. Charged it all night and all day today and it had enough juice to make my hour ride back home. Am I looking at replacing the stator?
rwall89 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #22 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-16-2014, 12:19 AM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
WilliamTech's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pensacola, FL.
Posts: 4,508
iTrader: (17)
   
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwall89 View Post
So stupid newbie question. I rode my bike yesterday and it ran fine all day. Parked it and had to drive a car for a bit to take a baseball player to his new team. Came back to pick up my bike and the battery was dead and wouldn't start. Jumped it off and then it died while loading my bag back on it and would start again so jumped it off again and left it hooked up for a bit to charge. About 20 miles down the road my gauges turned off then my headlights went dim, started backfiring and then shut off going down the bypass. Got it jumped off again and got it to my grandparents house. Charged it all night and all day today and it had enough juice to make my hour ride back home. Am I looking at replacing the stator?
Sounds right or R/R .....maybe a shorted battery, but doubt it.

Measure the voltage at battery with bike rev-ing at 4K rpm.....sb= 14.+ VDC
if not, Stator / R/R issue. Meter Tests are in the stickies/Threads.


'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
WilliamTech is offline  
post #23 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-16-2014, 06:59 AM Thread Starter
Members who have donated towards server costs
 
denny6006's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: InezKY pop.600
Posts: 5,236
iTrader: (9)
     
Garage
read the first few posts in this thread ,check it like it says too and you will know for certain.




If you see it on my bike I did it
VROC#30324
92 vn750(sold)
Current ride 05 1500 Classic FI
lovin' the new scoot



Quote:
"When all is said and done,usually more is said than done" UNK
Click on one x and drag to the other to read between them.

Psalm 40:1...
XI waited patiently for the Lord; and he turned unto me, and heard my cry. X
denny6006 is offline  
 
post #24 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-12-2014, 04:31 PM
Members who have donated towards server costs
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Chandler, Arizona
Posts: 2,833
iTrader: (0)
 
It's really easy.

1. Disconnect the 3 bullet connectors.

2. Set your meter on ohms

3. Touch one lead from the meter to the engine case. I used the rear manifold to avoid paint getting in the way. It does not matter which lead goes where. With a lead touching the engine, take the other lead and touch each of the 3 yellow wires in turn. Make sure they are the wires coming from the stator, not the wires coming from the R/R. You should get no continuity between any of the wires and the engine. If you do, your stator is shot. If not, move onto the next test.

4. Set your meter to VAC. Start the engine and rev it to 3000 rpm. Now check the AC volts between all 3 of the yellow wires, 2 at the time. Do not let the wires touch each other or ground. You should get high 40 to low 50 AC volts at each wire on a stock stator. If you do, your stator is good.

5. Now with a fully charged battery showing 13.xx volts with the engine off, start the engine and rev it to 3000. With the meter set to DC volts, and the leads connected to the battery terminals, you should get over 14 volts. If you do, everything is ok. If the voltage does not go up, or drops (the lights draw power from the battery, and can make the voltage drop down to around 11 volts if the system is not charging) the system is not charging, but the stator is ok.

6. There are a lot of possible problems, but I'd bet on the R/R, as it is the most expensive part. But check for proper ground, check the R/R connector, check the headlight relay, etc. You can check the R/R, but as was said, it can show good and still not work. If nothing else is found, and the DC voltage at the battery connections is low and doesn't budge when the engine is revved, you can be pretty sure it is the R/R

A charging system that is not working will cause the bike to misfire badly and die at idle, even with a fully charged battery. Apparently on the Vulcan, the ignition system requires the charging system to be working for the bike to run right.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
VN750Rider/Jerry is offline  
post #25 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-28-2015, 02:44 PM
Member
 
johnoni's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Northern Ireland
Posts: 40
iTrader: (0)
 
Hi all. New Newbie question. Have checked all the different things suggested on here with a multimeter. Cleaned connections etc. But still my indicators stop working when i pass 1500rpm. Baffled. Anyone have any ideas please.
johnoni is offline  
post #26 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-04-2015, 09:11 PM
Senior Member
 
vulkan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: North Central Fla
Posts: 450
iTrader: (0)
 
If the headlight relay is the culprit, there is an easy (and free)
repair you can do to bypass the relay. This will make the headlight
come on when you turn on the key, instead of when the engine starts.
There are 2 plugs going into your junction box (where the fuses are);
one is a 10 pin connector, the other is an 8 pin connector. Unplug
the 8 pin connector. There are only 7 wires going to this plug, so
one of the holes is empty. Move the blue wire to that empty hole and
plug it back in to the junction box. Now when you turn the key on the
headlight comes on. Let us know if you have any problems.......OK what does this fix??If the "headlight relay is the culprit" ...the culprit of WHAT!!??Hard starting??Battery drain??Extra "bright" lights??
vulkan is offline  
post #27 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-01-2016, 10:04 PM
Member
 
mick.park's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Chicago
Posts: 55
iTrader: (0)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by VN750Rider/Jerry View Post
It's really easy.

1. Disconnect the 3 bullet connectors.

2. Set your meter on ohms

3. Touch one lead from the meter to the engine case. I used the rear manifold to avoid paint getting in the way. It does not matter which lead goes where. With a lead touching the engine, take the other lead and touch each of the 3 yellow wires in turn. Make sure they are the wires coming from the stator, not the wires coming from the R/R. You should get no continuity between any of the wires and the engine. If you do, your stator is shot. If not, move onto the next test.

4. Set your meter to VAC. Start the engine and rev it to 3000 rpm. Now check the AC volts between all 3 of the yellow wires, 2 at the time. Do not let the wires touch each other or ground. You should get high 40 to low 50 AC volts at each wire on a stock stator. If you do, your stator is good.

5. Now with a fully charged battery showing 13.xx volts with the engine off, start the engine and rev it to 3000. With the meter set to DC volts, and the leads connected to the battery terminals, you should get over 14 volts. If you do, everything is ok. If the voltage does not go up, or drops (the lights draw power from the battery, and can make the voltage drop down to around 11 volts if the system is not charging) the system is not charging, but the stator is ok.

6. There are a lot of possible problems, but I'd bet on the R/R, as it is the most expensive part. But check for proper ground, check the R/R connector, check the headlight relay, etc. You can check the R/R, but as was said, it can show good and still not work. If nothing else is found, and the DC voltage at the battery connections is low and doesn't budge when the engine is revved, you can be pretty sure it is the R/R

A charging system that is not working will cause the bike to misfire badly and die at idle, even with a fully charged battery. Apparently on the Vulcan, the ignition system requires the charging system to be working for the bike to run right.

#3- I got a reading of OL across all combinations of the three yellow wires. Although, at times, it would flash quickly to a high two-digit number and then immediately return to OL. I tried multiple locations on the frame and got the same results at each location.

#4 I get a fraction of a VAC across all combinations.

#5 With a fully charged battery at 13v, I start 'er up and get no fluctuation of voltage at different RPMs. idle=12.xx; 3k=12.xx; 5k=12.xx

I do know that the PO replaced the R/R within the last year or so.
If I leave the bike on the trickle charger overnight, I come out in the morning to a 13v reading on the battery. It starts/runs fine, I can do my commute, park the bike for 7-8 hours, it reads 11.8v when I come back in the afternoon, and starts up fine for the ride home. Seems to not drain very rapidly, but it definitely doesn't seem to be charging on its own. I have a 90mi ride through back roads coming up next week and I'm a little nervous.

Am I in for a stator replacement?

Last edited by mick.park; 08-01-2016 at 10:07 PM. Reason: left out some info
mick.park is offline  
post #28 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-01-2016, 10:33 PM
Senior Member
 
Spockster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: WV
Posts: 6,444
iTrader: (5)
   
Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by mick.park View Post
#3- I got a reading of OL across all combinations of the three yellow wires. Although, at times, it would flash quickly to a high two-digit number and then immediately return to OL. I tried multiple locations on the frame and got the same results at each location.

#4 I get a fraction of a VAC across all combinations.

#5 With a fully charged battery at 13v, I start 'er up and get no fluctuation of voltage at different RPMs. idle=12.xx; 3k=12.xx; 5k=12.xx

I do know that the PO replaced the R/R within the last year or so.
If I leave the bike on the trickle charger overnight, I come out in the morning to a 13v reading on the battery. It starts/runs fine, I can do my commute, park the bike for 7-8 hours, it reads 11.8v when I come back in the afternoon, and starts up fine for the ride home. Seems to not drain very rapidly, but it definitely doesn't seem to be charging on its own. I have a 90mi ride through back roads coming up next week and I'm a little nervous.

Am I in for a stator replacement?
Sounds like it, but on #4, what ac volt setting was the meter set on? And what was the number of the fraction?

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
Spockster is offline  
post #29 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-01-2016, 11:27 PM
Member
 
mick.park's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Chicago
Posts: 55
iTrader: (0)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
Sounds like it, but on #4, what ac volt setting was the meter set on? And what was the number of the fraction?
My multimeter has two AC settings, 200v and 500v. I had it set to 200. I believe it was reading 0.1 to 0.2. I went inside and popped both leads into a wall receptacle just to be sure it was working right and it read 123v so I *guess* I trust the reading?
mick.park is offline  
post #30 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-02-2016, 09:18 AM
Senior Member
 
Spockster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: WV
Posts: 6,444
iTrader: (5)
   
Hmmm, yes, it does look like the stator is toast. Very low ac output.

TPE rewind is the best, most reliable stator you can get.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
Spockster is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Once registered, your User Name"cannot be changed". We can make exceptions within 7 days, but after that, it is set in stone.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome