bigger battery - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-19-2013, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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bigger battery

dont know if any can answer this but here goes
my 750 is a trike i have standard battery if i was to remove it extend +- wires and put a car battery in my back box would it still charge?? battery is 17 ah and car battery is 90 ah . i do need extra power for extra lights
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-19-2013, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by airguner View Post
dont know if any can answer this but here goes
my 750 is a trike i have standard battery if i was to remove it extend +- wires and put a car battery in my back box would it still charge?? battery is 17 ah and car battery is 90 ah . i do need extra power for extra lights
Sure it will charge...Should not be a problem.
Longer cables will justify a heavier cable /gauge (1 gauge heavier).
Of course, ensure all cable connections are clean.

The only limits on Additional Lights etc (Current draw)..... is the Stator output.

The bigger/heavy duty battery will aide in bike starts, .....will be able to supply needed current for an HD Air Horn or such (short duration current draw), but operating many lights for (longer) durations, you are still limited by your stator output.


Last edited by WilliamTech; 01-19-2013 at 04:34 PM.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-19-2013, 05:33 PM
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I don't follow....
Wouldn't a larger capacity battery offer more current available at any given time for loads?
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-19-2013, 05:42 PM
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I think the batteries peak output measurement is defined as CCA - cold cranking amps. - that is a useful value when the starter is turned. If you have so many lights that you are going to draw as much current as a starter then a psychiatrist is in order not a bigger battery - just saying....

What a lager capacity battery will do is run more devices a longer amount of time then a smaller capacity battery which will run those devices but for a shorter amount of time.

A bigger battery will help keep your bike running if the stator cannot keep up, but on long rides if you are running off the battery and not the stator then it can be thought of as not having a charging system - eventually your battery will die, ignition will fail and you will be stuck.

Actually a better idea instead of a larger battery would be a stator custom wound to produce higher output (if somebody is able to do that for you - i do not know)

If you are going to look into good batteries though - check out http://www.odysseybattery.com/ their specs are what I consider to be pretty good, everything I own has one of these batteries in it, never an issue.

good luck

If you go one short rides and charge your battery after every ride then the extra lights are ok, even with the small battery, the only thing the larger battery will do, if you are past the max output of the stator is give you more time between necessary charges - i hope this helps. BTW, if you are past the max output of the stator all the time I think you risk burning it up, I have been past my max output a few times, and still have not burnt it up but I guess it is possible, I thought it was fused though so what the heck right?

kenny
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-19-2013, 06:30 PM
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Not sure how you would burn up the stator with a higher load. The stator puts out what it puts out, current wise. It almost seems to me that running "on the edge" would be good, as the R/R wouldn't have to shunt that power to ground.
As for the battery, seems like the bigger battery would be able to handle the increased load and give more cushion room for the stator to catch up when the load is below max output of the charging system. He's talking about 4x the capacity, I guess if you keep it on a tender it would be ok? Hook a damn car alternator up and be done with it.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-19-2013, 07:22 PM
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Hook a damn car alternator up and be done with it
Not as far fetched as it seems, btw...a buddy in SF had an old 45cu in trike and worked in an aux battery that was charghed off of a Chevy alternator via the chain drive. Thats whats nice about a trike....you have the room to add all of these lil extras.

Also....you could run 2 bike batteries with a charge balancer like they do on motorhomes. The stator would then charge the battery which is at its lowest, and the system itself would always be using a full battery.
But switching to a larger battery is ok too...I just wouldnt get "too" big...you could even run 2 std batteries in parallel. Same voltage, higher amps.

I need to build a trike to play with, lol...too many neat ideas here...hey Merc, wanna go in on a project ?....we make my 454LTD a trike....keg hauler, lol...



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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-19-2013, 07:38 PM
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Not sure how you would burn up the stator with a higher load. The stator puts out what it puts out, current wise. It almost seems to me that running "on the edge" would be good, as the R/R wouldn't have to shunt that power to ground.
As for the battery, seems like the bigger battery would be able to handle the increased load and give more cushion room for the stator to catch up when the load is below max output of the charging system. He's talking about 4x the capacity, I guess if you keep it on a tender it would be ok? Hook a damn car alternator up and be done with it.
Yeah I never had a problem running my stator past the limits, but I thought that was the big problem in the headlight thread - the stator limitations and risk of killing something (namely stator).

If 'beating' up the stator is ok and it wont burn up then go for it. I just did some quick reading and it looks like running past the limits of the stator will possibly burn out the regulator.... something is going to get hot with max current being put out all the time. (I thought the windings of the stator would be one failure mechanism).

When the bike runs normally the stator does not put out maximum current. Dariv, please clarify - "The stator puts out what it puts out, current wise." Because that is really not true. If your bike requires 20A with ign, lights etc... then the stator will give you 20A even though it could possibly do 40A - just picking numbers...

I am with ya on the car alternator, if the room is there - do it.

wolife - I have projects coming out of my ears, but if you start it I would stop with a beer or two some times to check it out and give a day of my time into it, I just can't fully commit.

kenny
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-19-2013, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury View Post

When the bike runs normally the stator does not put out maximum current. Dariv, please clarify - "The stator puts out what it puts out, current wise." Because that is really not true. If your bike requires 20A with ign, lights etc... then the stator will give you 20A even though it could possibly do 40A - just picking numbers...

kenny
When the bike runs normally the stator does not put out maximum current.

. . This, as I understand it, Is not entirely true !

Quote:
Dariv: Not sure how you would burn up the stator with a higher load. The stator puts out what it puts out, current wise. It almost seems to me that running "on the edge" would be good, as the R/R wouldn't have to shunt that power to ground.
That's how I understand it......un-used/unneeded current the R/R Shunts to ground.


Last edited by WilliamTech; 01-19-2013 at 08:25 PM.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-19-2013, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury View Post
...
When the bike runs normally the stator does not put out maximum current. Dariv, please clarify - "The stator puts out what it puts out, current wise." Because that is really not true. If your bike requires 20A with ign, lights etc... then the stator will give you 20A even though it could possibly do 40A - just picking numbers...

kenny
What I mean is that the induced output of the stator is based on RPM of the engine. It has no relation to the demands of the battery or other loads. Whatever output from the stator that isn't used by the electrical system is shunted to ground.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-19-2013, 08:34 PM
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...sooooooo....instead of shunting to ground, send it to a second battery, no ?...like RVs do. Why send juice flying into your frame adding to galvanic corrosion too ?? Store the extra for when its needed....thats a no brainer for a trike...besides, its wrong to shunt it to the frame since much of the VN is aluminum...if shunted away, should go via a sacrificial anode. Anybody with an boat and motor OB or IB or I/O would know that. Yamaha, Suzuki and Honda know it...

Airgunner...sorry (for all of us) we hijacked your thread (common here) sort of in answering yer question, but its all in the goal to learn/develop/innovate....if it gets too involved, I'll start an offshoot thread on this subject and move the posts....

Quote:
but if you start it I would stop with a beer or two some times to check it out and give a day of my time into it
Need yer truck and resources to get the rear (Spechts) and tubular steel...the rest is easy....




Last edited by Wolfie; 01-19-2013 at 08:37 PM.
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