Junction Box 2.0: Redesign Open Source Project - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
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post #1 of 93 (permalink) Old 12-16-2012, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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Junction Box 2.0: Redesign Open Source Project

Junction Box 2.0: Redesign Open Source Project

Several members have expressed an interest in designing a replacement unit for the stock junction box. I believe a collaborative effort will yield the finest results; by collecting and implementing the best ideas of the participants in an ‘open source’ style build. My goals for this project are as follows:

1) Open Source- meaning all relevant information and details shall be shared between members.
2) Plug and Play- The replacement unit shall be a direct bolt on for the OEM box.
3) Low Cost- The cost shall be within the means of the average forum member.
4) User Serviceable- The JB shall have replaceable components.
5) Added Functionality- The JB shall have extra user circuits and expandability.
6) ?

Some Ideas I have:
1) Possible solid state components
2) Extra switched circuits for lights, horns, ect…
3) Indicators for displaying the state of the relays inside (LED’s turn on when relay is energized)
4) 3 color LED to indicate system voltage
5) Possible port for expansion boards
6) ?

I’m looking for members to join me to make this concept a reality….
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post #2 of 93 (permalink) Old 12-16-2012, 07:45 PM
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What I would be after is replaceable relays and an extra switched power supply for an accessory. But I do like the led idea ..... run with it!!

87 vn750at least that is what the frame #'s say
"Squirrel Bike" aka Jersey

Rat bike with a good PR agent

shaved and coastered
2 into 1 exhaust
rear 170 and front 110
Relocated R/R
custom dash with voltmeter
Spitfire windscreen
Plutonium plugs
Recovered seat without "butt hammers"
More to come
Praise to the Parts Goddess Crobins for needed things

When someone tells me "Great minds think alike" all I can think is "You Pervert"
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post #3 of 93 (permalink) Old 12-16-2012, 09:00 PM
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I am in favor of a rebuildable JB with replaceable relays etc.

I will be lucky to understand half of what the electrical gurus here are talking about, but if it is plug and play anyone can install it!

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/9127-top-ten-items-you-would-suggest-new-owner-do-his-new-ride.html
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post #4 of 93 (permalink) Old 12-17-2012, 06:27 PM
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Very interesting project, I would like to follow the progress on this. I think the first thing that would need to be done it to see what limitations you have to work within. Mainly the size/shape of the new JB.
1). Since your talking replaceable relays there would need to be space for a socket and the relay.

2). Are you planning on creating a new circuit board ? I do believe that radio shack could help you there. They have the board, etching liquid, and the things required to design one. They have breadboards for building circuits, and project boxes. Browse the website to get some ideas. I'm sure Radio shack is not the only source.
Enough from me for the moment.
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post #5 of 93 (permalink) Old 12-17-2012, 09:23 PM
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I would suggest a factory made circuit board. Quick turn houses can do these so cheap its not worth the time to do your own. Certainly not worth it if we are going to do even 10 pieces.

I like the LED idea.
I want to have the option to plug in the voltage regulator cables and have leads out to a mosfet regulator. Might be able to do this as a plug in board and jumper option on the main board.
Is it worthwhile to have a delay circuit before turning on some of the loads--especially the headlights? Headlight off if voltage is too low so you can limp home?
Would it be good to have one modulated output, even if it was only to drive LED loads?
Diodes--higher capacity surface mount? Pin sockets so even the diodes can be swapped?
Packaging--I really like a solid diecast aluminum box. But I plan to mount the regulator to this. Others may want a lighter weight plastic. Board outline should fit both if at all possible.
Do we want to consider moving some of the relays to mosfets or driver ICs?

Project questions--
Design to be done with open source software or just make sure the files are available?

I'm looking forward to this! Thanks for taking the lead!

ArkTinkerer
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post #6 of 93 (permalink) Old 12-17-2012, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ifixf18s View Post
... I think the first thing that would need to be done it to see what limitations you have to work within. Mainly the size/shape of the new JB.
I wonder if we could re-use JB's..... You could save the box and connectors and scrap the rest. Insert your new board and components within the old box? Would save some $$$. On second thought, there probably isn't depth for a relay and socket...
[/QUOTE]

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArkTinkerer View Post
I would suggest a factory made circuit board. Quick turn houses can do these so cheap its not worth the time to do your own. Certainly not worth it if we are going to do even 10 pieces.
If you have any info on who does this kind of small run and/or pricing please pass that info along.

Quote:
I like the LED idea.
I want to have the option to plug in the voltage regulator cables and have leads out to a mosfet regulator. Might be able to do this as a plug in board and jumper option on the main board.
An option to replace the OEM R/R with the MOSFET should be addressed. If you have an idea for a circuit, please sketch it up.

Quote:
Is it worthwhile to have a delay circuit before turning on some of the loads--especially the headlights? Headlight off if voltage is too low so you can limp home?
I was thinking along the lines of turning on the headlight once the start button was pressed and released. Seemed simple and gets the stator wire out of the circuit. A timer is another option here...
Also, I was thinking of perhaps some kind of jumpers in the box to enable/disables the headlight relay, stand switch, clutch switch, neutral switch.... to aid in trouble shooting or to jump something out in an emergency.


Quote:
Would it be good to have one modulated output, even if it was only to drive LED loads?
Diodes--higher capacity surface mount? Pin sockets so even the diodes can be swapped?
Packaging--I really like a solid diecast aluminum box. But I plan to mount the regulator to this. Others may want a lighter weight plastic. Board outline should fit both if at all possible.
Do we want to consider moving some of the relays to mosfets or driver ICs?
I really like the idea of going with SSR's on this. Problem is of course price. I'm looking for a source that is reasonable (under $20/Ea.?)

Quote:
Project questions--
Design to be done with open source software or just make sure the files are available?
Seems most design software has at least a free viewer for their file types. I would think just making the user files available is good enough.

Quote:
I'm looking forward to this! Thanks for taking the lead!

ArkTinkerer
We have a lot of good input so far..... this is exactly what I was hoping for
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post #7 of 93 (permalink) Old 12-17-2012, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dariv View Post
I wonder if we could re-use JB's..... You could save the box and connectors and scrap the rest. Insert your new board and components within the old box? Would save some $$$. On second thought, there probably isn't depth for a relay and socket...
Need about 1.5" depth for relay and socket + about 1/8" for PCB and leads.

If you have any info on who does this kind of small run and/or pricing please pass that info along.

http://www.protoexpress.com/content/noTouch.jsp does a good job on simple designs like this one.

An option to replace the OEM R/R with the MOSFET should be addressed. If you have an idea for a circuit, please sketch it up.


I was thinking along the lines of turning on the headlight once the start button was pressed and released. Seemed simple and gets the stator wire out of the circuit. A timer is another option here...
Also, I was thinking of perhaps some kind of jumpers in the box to enable/disables the headlight relay, stand switch, clutch switch, neutral switch.... to aid in trouble shooting or to jump something out in an emergency.


Timer was first thought--using the voltage level seems better to me the more I think about it. Turns on shortly after the system voltage is high enough.

I really like the idea of going with SSR's on this. Problem is of course price. I'm looking for a source that is reasonable (under $20/Ea.?)

What is the required current for each of the circuits? I think I'm going to crack my box this weekend and trace the circuit. I'll post it here when I'm done. Should make a good starting point.


Seems most design software has at least a free viewer for their file types. I would think just making the user files available is good enough.

http://www.graphicode.com/GC-Prevue lets you look at the gerbers/drill info which is pretty standard across the industry. The schematics could be put out in PDF for anyone to read or re-enter if they wanted to do another design.
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post #8 of 93 (permalink) Old 12-18-2012, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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The relay coils are 320 ohm
The contact config is SPDT, the NC contacts go to unused pads
They are either 5A or 10A, going by NEC's code
Link to NEC data sheet (go to the MR301 section): https://dl.dropbox.com/u/60642790/EP2-B3N3S.pdf

One thing to note: The unused pin10 is connected internally to pin8. So it goes on and off with the headlight. Might be a nice place to tap into to drive a relay for switched loads on a stock bike.
I confirmed that the JB is identical (electrically) to the diagram in the Clymer manual on page 340
In the pictures, the numbers drawn on the traces indicate the pin# of the connectors.



Here are some pics:




















Last edited by dariv; 12-18-2012 at 09:44 PM.
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post #9 of 93 (permalink) Old 12-18-2012, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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continued...






Last edited by dariv; 12-18-2012 at 09:36 PM.
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post #10 of 93 (permalink) Old 12-18-2012, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
One thing to note: The unused pin10 is connected internally to pin8. So it goes on and off with the headlight. Might be a nice place to tap into to drive a relay for switched loads on a stock bike.
Will be a great asset/improvement/mod. !

great pics/notes/details !

I am highly interested in your project... I would like your finished results.
Let me know of any assistance u may need, although I believe u can do it as good/probably better than I.

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