Shindigen FH020AA - Page 3 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-26-2012, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
Crap, I WAS in 5th gear.
 
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The latest.... On the way home after 20 minutes on the freeway, "blinky" turned orange at 5,000 RPM. I have the Roadstercycle indicator. In my setup, this equates to about 13.2V output at the R/R. Then I assume the fan came on, battery voltage dropped to about 12.6V-- all of this at 5,000 RPM. In the two miles off of the freeway, I never got over 12.6V. I grabbed the multimeter and checked things out-

Stator all good- 1.0 ohms, 35V at 1500 RPM, no leg-leg shorts or leg to ground shorts.
I have not relocated the R/R and it was HOT, about 150 degrees F or so.
I thought there was a problem with the R/R checks (doing it by memory), but in the time it took to print out the checklist and re-check, everything was fine. R/R was cooling off by now. I plugged everything back in and started it up. Was getting 13.2 at idle. Fan came on while the R/R was still relatively cool, was getting 12.9V at idle, which dropped in a linear fashion over time (as the R/R heated up.)

It looks like perhaps the MOSFET does not like the stock location because it is too hot (duh.) I did not expect that 150F would affect it, perhaps it does. It is also possible that the R/R is generating its own excessive heat in some kind of failure mode I haven't been able to spot yet. In any event, my issue seems to be with the MOSFET, the mounting location, or both.
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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-27-2012, 08:36 AM
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Garage
try moving the R/R first.
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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
Crap, I WAS in 5th gear.
 
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Shindigen FH020AA is bad. Just figured it out. It totally failed on the way home from work. The R/R tested fine on the bike, which has been going on since October. The TPE stator tested fine as well. I pulled the R/R off and gently warmed the whole unit to 90 degrees F- diode checks all failed except negative DVM lead to stator pins. 5 minutes later after it cooled off a little, everything passed again. I'll let you know what Roadstercycle says- it is still under warranty. I should have stuck with the tractor R/R I had on there before; so much for upgrades.
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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-24-2013, 11:33 AM
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Put the tractor R/R back in and yank the goats belly ???



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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-24-2013, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
Crap, I WAS in 5th gear.
 
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I thought about it. I relocated the R/R last week just before it started to totally fail. I don't want to mess with my wiring, but fortunately I live near Roadstercycle. Jack is going to check it out tonight using a heat gun to warm it up, and on his custom bike if it isn't raining.

I think we can remove the sticky now. I'll post the final results in a few days.
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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-11-2013, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
Crap, I WAS in 5th gear.
 
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Just wanted to follow up. I had overheated the R/R when doing my test. Jack checked it out, and it was OK. I pulled the stator and found that it was not centered and the core and one of the coils was making intermittent contact with the rotor. I drilled and tapped three additional locating holes after centering the stator using duct tape. I would recommend extra fasteners besides the three cover pass-through a to keep the stator perfectly centered. The cover bolts have a reduced diameter shoulder, coupled with any locating errors of the faster clearance holes could cause the core to rub the magnets.

Got it all buttoned up and working fine now.


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