Shindigen FH020AA - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-19-2012, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by JM2001 View Post
Here is the Mosfet FH020AA diagnostic check from Roadstercycles: I quote: Multimeter on diode check.
Positive multimeter lead to positive mosfet pin, negative multimeter to each stator pin 1 at a time, should get all zeros.
Negative multimeter lead to positive mosfet pin, positive multimeter to each stator pins 1 at a time should get all close to the same, about 100, I've seen 70 to 140 depending on ambient weather (still all good).
Now, Positive multimeter lead to negative mosfet pin, negative lead to each stator lead 1 at a time should get 435 ish all close to the same (again varies by ambient temp).
Negative multimeter to negative mosfet pin, positive multimeter to each stator pin 1 at a time, should get zeros.
If you get a zero where you should not or a number where you should not, then you possibly have a bad mosfet, odds are not good of that." End quote
JM, can you link me to the diagnostics please, so I can update the TS Guide?
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-19-2012, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ifixf18s View Post
With the MOSFET at idle you will get more then battery voltage......
My MOSFET and TPE stator has never charged at idle. Cold it will start charging at 1300 rpm but warm its mostly around 2200 rpm, then will charge to as low as 1300 rpm. But now this is on my bike. I'm sur it varies a little per bike.
Last edited by Chuck A.; 10-19-2012 at 11:59 PM.
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-20-2012, 12:30 AM
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Something is wrong with your upgrade then Chuck... you should be seeing right around 14.5 volts through all RPM ranges with your set up... pm me
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-20-2012, 03:03 AM
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I Updated the Charging system TS Guide to reflect the Shindegen R/R information.
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-20-2012, 07:06 AM
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JM, can you link me to the diagnostics please, so I can update the TS Guide?
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-20-2012, 12:38 PM
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Got it.. thanks JM
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-22-2012, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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My MOSFET and TPE stator has never charged at idle. Cold it will start charging at 1300 rpm but warm its mostly around 2200 rpm, then will charge to as low as 1300 rpm. But now this is on my bike. I'm sur it varies a little per bike.
This is exactly what is going on with mine. Last night, I re-wired straight to the battery using the HUGE wire included with the Roadstercycles kit, and I used primary wire from the stator leads to the R/R. All connections are soldered. Worst-case when hot with my fan and the hi-beam on is around 12.4V. Basically, running a bit better than stock, but not what I had expected. I do expect it will vary from bike to bike a little bit, as each stator will be a little different as well as peoples wiring skills.

I will check out the R/R with my Multimeter in a couple of days and report back. I can't work on it for a few days, but still able to ride.
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-22-2012, 06:54 PM
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i still think its a bad stator... when it gets hot it is shorting one leg out to ground.. I just talked two people through this over the phone over the past 3 months.
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-23-2012, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
Crap, I WAS in 5th gear.
 
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i still think its a bad stator... when it gets hot it is shorting one leg out to ground.. I just talked two people through this over the phone over the past 3 months.
You might be right, but unloaded, I am getting around 25V at idle and 75+ @ 4-5K and no shorts. Even if it is the stator, I'm just foing to keep riding it. I'll have my other core rewound in the meantime, and do the R/R testing tomorrow night.

I'll also pick up a cheap ammeter clamp at Harbor Freight to check the legs.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-23-2012, 09:58 PM
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unloaded they were getting the same stator reading unloaded.. and if you unplug the tail light and headlight with the R/R plugged in you should be pulling 13.9-14.5 volts through all rpm, ranges, then drop down to 12 with the tail light plugged back in. I racked my brain for 3 months before one fo the guys finally went back and checked stator leg to ground resistance when hot. we came up with .05 ohms with engine at normal operating temps, with engine cold, the same leg to ground was getting a reading of OL. BTW all three stators had less than 2,000 miles, One was a 1 Was a rick's, one was an Electrosport, and the third was a TPE... TPE was the only one that made right as far as I know.
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