2003 with electrical problems!!! I NEED HELP!!! - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-16-2012, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy 2003 with electrical problems!!! I NEED HELP!!!

The bike has been running great then it started getting harder to crank! Instead of the instant start-up it would take several times turning over to finally crank! Then last night it just would not start. After many attempts and waiting between so not to burn up the starter it finally cranked, i had to drive it about 6 miles home and the lights were going from dim to dimmer, back and forth all the way home. When i got home it was idling fine, but the lights werte still going from dim to dimmer and back and forth. I shut the bike off and tried to start it again and it will not even turn over. I pulled the battery and checked the voltage. It was about 10 volts. I checked the batt. Water level and charged to a full charge. Reinstalled the batt. And tried to start it, it will not even turn over. Key on, in neutral, clutch-in, no start!!! I turned the key on and jumped the silenoid with a screw driver and it turns over really strong but will not start. I haven't checked the spark yet to see if it is firing? I do not understand that if it is the generator, what happened to the starter silenoid? Tomorrow i will check the spark and the starter button power to the silenoid! Help me guys what does it sound like to you'll???
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 12:01 AM
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sounds like a job for supper slim the electrical wizard follow his flow chart and post up all your readings here he will chime in soon i'm sure in the mean time clean all your ground connections and have your battery load tested at a parts store
also check your voltage at the coils and see if there is a voltage drop from the battery to the coils

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 03:50 PM
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What's the chance that the ignition switch has gone bad and needs a rebuild or replace?

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TWEDJR View Post
The bike has been running great then it started getting harder to crank! Instead of the instant start-up it would take several times turning over to finally crank! Then last night it just would not start. After many attempts and waiting between so not to burn up the starter it finally cranked, i had to drive it about 6 miles home and the lights were going from dim to dimmer, back and forth all the way home. When i got home it was idling fine, but the lights werte still going from dim to dimmer and back and forth. I shut the bike off and tried to start it again and it will not even turn over. I pulled the battery and checked the voltage. It was about 10 volts. I checked the batt. Water level and charged to a full charge. Reinstalled the batt. And tried to start it, it will not even turn over. Key on, in neutral, clutch-in, no start!!! I turned the key on and jumped the silenoid with a screw driver and it turns over really strong but will not start. I haven't checked the spark yet to see if it is firing? I do not understand that if it is the generator, what happened to the starter silenoid? Tomorrow i will check the spark and the starter button power to the silenoid! Help me guys what does it sound like to you'll???
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gemguy View Post
What's the chance that the ignition switch has gone bad and needs a rebuild or replace?

That is exactly what this sounds like, along with some kind of charging problem.. but a bad ignition switch would cause it too... also look at the starter button and kill switch contacts as well.

Rebuild the ignition switch PDF

Last edited by slimvulcanrider; 10-17-2012 at 07:22 PM.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 07:53 PM
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and check to make sure all three bullet connectors on the stator wires are connected good

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Sucks getting old but it beats not getting old.

i got my helmet but it sure makes licking the windows a chore

cell phone number for anyone who needs it 214-516-1738

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by new rider 9984 View Post
and check to make sure all three bullet connectors on the stator wires are connected good

Great point, but even better, cut off the connectors, solder and heat shrink the stator leads. You can still check the stator at the R/R connector. The bullet connectors will corrode and fatigue over time, and they are expected to carry up to about 10 Amps each.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012, 11:11 AM
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Check the battery ground to the frame. Also do battery test.

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Last edited by niterider; 10-18-2012 at 11:13 AM.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the advice guys! You have been very helpful! Turns out to be the ignition switch! And i think the battery probally needs replacing also. Thanks again for such quick and wise info!!!
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-19-2012, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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Angry Overheating rectifier = loss of voltage???

When the bike is cold it is charging fine @ 14.2 volts, then when it gets hot it actually drains power from the battery! When hot at idle i only have 10 to 11 volts at the battery. Turn it off and the battery has 12.2 volts. I ran through the flow chart and it is pointing to the rectifier / regulator as the problem. Does this sound right to you guys??? Also has anyone used an electrosport or a rick's motorsport brand as a replacement???
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-19-2012, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TWEDJR View Post
When the bike is cold it is charging fine @ 14.2 volts, then when it gets hot it actually drains power from the battery! When hot at idle i only have 10 to 11 volts at the battery. Turn it off and the battery has 12.2 volts. I ran through the flow chart and it is pointing to the rectifier / regulator as the problem. Does this sound right to you guys??? Also has anyone used an electrosport or a rick's motorsport brand as a replacement???
No it doesn't... Post up your hot and cold charging system results.

Lots of people have.. and recently with bad results... the best thing to do is go with a MOSFET FH022A or equivalent MOSFET R/R
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