Stator testing - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-12-2012, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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Stator testing

The problem: I'll charge the battery over night, starts great next morning. rides fine all day but starting up time gets increasingly longer. More cranks to get her to turn over... Ill get home and the battery will show like 12 volts or less bike off and while cranking putting out ~9volts until the relay kicks in and it just starts clicking instead of cranking.

I've replaced the R/R not even 200 miles ago, the battery was bought by PO new 4 months ago. However, he didn't put any water in it! I filled her up a while ago but still having voltage issues. Gets so bad I have to push start her to make it home. Running up and down the street pushing a vulcan in summer in florida in riding gear is not fun!

So, got the multimeter out, going off of the "goof Proof stator testing" HERE.

I was getting 1 on the ohms for checking the ground to one of the wires until i went to 20m then it showed roughly 1.4 ohms. if i went to 2m i got like 3.4ohms...
I then tested each wire together. results:
Wire 1 and 2: .7 ohm
Wire 1 and 3: .8
Wire 2 and 3: .8
Those readings on 200 on the multimeter.

I don't know electrical at all... Do you think the stator is still good? If not I'll send the oem one off to Tim Parrot at TPE for a reliable rebuild.

1990 VN750 Red and Black
Bought on 6/30/2012 w/ 13,230 miles
At ~20,000
To Do List: Paint Front Rim, Acct- mcct mod

Done: Adjusted Float Bowls, R/R Replace and Relocate, Coastered, Ear Shave, Front/Rear Tire Change, Replaced Final Gear Seals, Splines Lubed, Relay Coil Mod, Replaced Fork Seals, Rebuilt Starter
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-12-2012, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
I was getting 1 on the ohms for checking the ground to one of the wires until i went to 20m then it showed roughly 1.4 ohms. if i went to 2m i got like 3.4ohms...
these are bad numbers should read O.L. (open Lead)
Quote:
I was getting 1 on the ohms for checking the ground to one of the wires until i went to 20m then it showed roughly 1.4 ohms. if i went to 2m i got like 3.4ohms...
I then tested each wire together. results:
Wire 1 and 2: .7 ohm
Wire 1 and 3: .8
Wire 2 and 3: .8
Those readings on 200 on the multimeter.
these reading are good. you want them to be close to 0 ohms.

So with leads grounding out, you have a bad stator even though the windings show normal. Time to call Tim Parrot at http://tpe-usa.com
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-13-2012, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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Thinking of going with this brand new stator on ebay made by Racetech Electric, the great thing about it is the lifetime warranty. I'm concerned that Tim using the oem one I have will be doomed to fail after the year warranty is up. It also apparently comes with thicker windings putting out estimated 20% more power...

1990 VN750 Red and Black
Bought on 6/30/2012 w/ 13,230 miles
At ~20,000
To Do List: Paint Front Rim, Acct- mcct mod

Done: Adjusted Float Bowls, R/R Replace and Relocate, Coastered, Ear Shave, Front/Rear Tire Change, Replaced Final Gear Seals, Splines Lubed, Relay Coil Mod, Replaced Fork Seals, Rebuilt Starter
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-13-2012, 04:13 PM
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Tim was recommended by many here with successful results....and good customer service if something does go wrong.

Do what you want, but the advice given seems to be sound.
A lot of others make claims of better or stronger output.....buyer beware.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-13-2012, 07:29 PM
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Something dont seem right to me, unless im reading your post wrong. If checking the resistance from wire to wire are all less then one ohm then theres no way just one wire reads to ground. All of them would read a short to ground.
My meter, which is one of the nicer ones from sears displays a 1. when you turn it on, meter leads not touching so the circuit is OPEN. Meters are different so it depends on the one you have. Also you should set the meter on the lowest scale possible depending on the application. This time its reading resistance that should be < 1 ohm so putting the meter on the 20M scale isnt right.

Last edited by ifixf18s; 09-13-2012 at 07:32 PM.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-17-2012, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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I retook the readings, and the multimeter I have when turned on to the ohms part reads a 1 when nothing is connected and that's what I was getting when I tried connecting one connection to a ground. I'm going to assume that the stator is still working adequately since the other wires are getting the correct readings.

I did find two loose grounds. The first one coming right off the battery wasn't tightened down completely. Either I was an idiot or it rattled loose...

The second one is for the wire coming out the rear of the engine and connects up to the frame on the right side of the battery box. That one was a full ince out of the hole... idk how that happened but I've cleaned both connections and tightened them down. I'm also going to replace the male connectors for the three yellow wires for the stator.

IMPORTANT: I didn't mark which wire was connected to which one... does it matter when I plug them all back together?

1990 VN750 Red and Black
Bought on 6/30/2012 w/ 13,230 miles
At ~20,000
To Do List: Paint Front Rim, Acct- mcct mod

Done: Adjusted Float Bowls, R/R Replace and Relocate, Coastered, Ear Shave, Front/Rear Tire Change, Replaced Final Gear Seals, Splines Lubed, Relay Coil Mod, Replaced Fork Seals, Rebuilt Starter
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-17-2012, 05:56 PM
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Grounds, Grounds, and Grounds!!! I am a firm beliver that most probs with any 12 volt system is related to not having good grounds, if you do not have them it will run you in circles. IMOP that is ALWAYS the first place to start!!!

04-3,200 miles bought July 2011 with 928 miles. Loaded with acessories to many to list here, see my albums for more details! I also make a custom tank bib specific for the 750 if anyone is interested, ck my albums for some pics.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-17-2012, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
IMPORTANT: I didn't mark which wire was connected to which one... does it matter when I plug them all back together?
nope doesn't mater witch wire connects to which wire, as long as yellow goes to yellow.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-17-2012, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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Cool thanks guys.
I plugged it all back up, put the new male connection ends on to the wires. Started right up no problem. I had a multimeter on the battery, before starting it was 12.13.
While revving at different ranges I noticed that the amount the battery was putting at would decline as I gave it more throttle....
At 1500rpm-2k I;ll peak at 13, then as I rise up it starts dropping. 12.9 at 2500rpm, 12.8 at 3k, 12.7 at 3700 and so on... at 5k its at about 12.5?

Seems odd.

1990 VN750 Red and Black
Bought on 6/30/2012 w/ 13,230 miles
At ~20,000
To Do List: Paint Front Rim, Acct- mcct mod

Done: Adjusted Float Bowls, R/R Replace and Relocate, Coastered, Ear Shave, Front/Rear Tire Change, Replaced Final Gear Seals, Splines Lubed, Relay Coil Mod, Replaced Fork Seals, Rebuilt Starter
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-17-2012, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stVulcan View Post
Seems odd.
Not odd, just a bad stator.

That's the exact behavior mine exhibited.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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