Frustrated. Bike can run but without running lights, horn, and headlight - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-09-2012, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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Frustrated. Bike can run but without running lights, horn, and headlight

My 1995 VN750 USA model is giving me a headache as of late. It's starting to feel more like a project bike than my daily commuter. Here's what I've got going on and what I've done to test.

Issue: Turning the ignition switch to ON does nothing as far as lights as concerned. I don't have the lights under my speedometer, neutral, front running lights, and the tail light isn't lit. When bike is running, (yes, it cranks up wonderfully), the head light doesn't come on either, high or low beam. I have no horn noise when depressing the switch. My hazard lights all come on when depressing the switch.

Testing:

-Tested voltage at battery, it's good, over 12.

-Tested voltage with bike running, higher than bike not running.

-Made sure ground screw on battery was tight, and it is.

-Pulled every single fuse out of the junction box and tested continuity to ensure that fuses weren't blown. All fuses, even spares, check out fine. Put fuses back into box and pressed down firmly.

-Pulled off gas tank. Pulled apart every single dang electrical plug connector, cleaned connections, packed with dielectric grease, and put back together. Most of my connections were already good from when I've done this before. Made sure nothing was getting squished.

-Called my dad. Removed top left fuse in junction box and headlight fuse. Made a jumper wire and connected positive terminal on battery directly into junction box where the fuse blades go in. All my running lights came on, lights up on speedometer, neutral, etc all came on. Tail light also on and lights up bright when front brake is pulled. If I apply directly to headlight fuse spot, headlight comes on.

-So, we figured that my junction box was bad. So I got with a vn750 member and got another one. It arrived here last week. Replaced junction box tonight. No change.

Got my Clymer's manual out and just poured over the diagrams. Tested W/R wire coming from battery positive terminal that goes into the junction box for the main fuse. Getting 12.-something volts here. Connected plug to junction box. I'm getting voltage on the bottom half of the connector but not the top 3 wires, blue and two other wires. I don't know if I should be getting voltage there or not with the bike not running.

At this point I'm at a loss. What else should I be attempting to do at this point? I have a multimeter and some patience and at this point in time I'm just lost.

I need an electrical guru to help me out, please.

Thanks,
Michael

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-10-2012, 12:21 AM
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I would suggest you check that your ignition key switch. In case you haven't tried this, turn it all the way to Park and see what happens. It really seems like to me some part of your ignition switch circuit is open or at fault since the signal for lights and horns to turn on comes from the key cylinder closing the circuit when the key is turned. Since you checked all your connectors and wires and you got lights to work when you bypassed the key switch by getting power straight from the battery and changing the junction block didn't help, its really the last thing I can think of. I haven't had to do anything with my instrument cluster or the key so perhaps some one else could chime in and explain any precautions on removing it, your ignition switch wire harness from your ignition switch. All of this stuff should be at the back or around the key cylinder.
Once you take it off and study the wiring diagram that *Slimvulcan rider * has, you can use a jumper wire to close the circuits like the key cylinder should and if doing this makes every thing work, it will be a safe bet your ignition switch is bad! Since you have a multy meter you could also check for continuity on the removed ignition switch with the key cylinder turned to Ignition. The pin that brings power in should have continuity to the other pins.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-10-2012, 12:57 AM
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Quote:
Made a jumper wire and connected positive terminal on battery directly into junction box where the fuse blades go in. All my running lights came on, lights up on speedometer, neutral, etc all came on. Tail light also on and lights up bright when front brake is pulled. If I apply directly to headlight fuse spot, headlight comes on.
looking at schematics, you are not receiving 12v at pin 6 (input) of the Junction Box.

The Charging System Schematic shows JB pin 6 as a BR/W (brown/white) wire coming from the Ignition Switch.

hope this helps
WilliamTech

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-10-2012, 12:11 PM
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Two things I would do is:

1: check all chassis grounds (not just the battery terminal negative)

2: the ignition switch itself may be faulty. The "puck" under the ignition key housing might need to be cleaned .

Search for Ignition switch threads to find how to clean then electrics in it.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-10-2012, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Got my Clymer's manual out and just poured over the diagrams. Tested W/R wire coming from battery positive terminal that goes into the junction box for the main fuse. Getting 12.-something volts here. Connected plug to junction box. I'm getting voltage on the bottom half of the connector but not the top 3 wires, blue and two other wires. I don't know if I should be getting voltage there or not with the bike not running.
The bike has to be running for the blue wire to have voltage.
I agree, it sounds like a bad ignition switch... fortunately they are easy to take apart and repair.

IGNITION SWITCH REBUILD

Last edited by slimvulcanrider; 09-10-2012 at 04:33 PM.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-10-2012, 04:53 PM
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There are 3 accessory wires coming from the ignition switch if memory serves me correctly.
IIRC those feed the lights on your bike, ie: dash lights, running lights and tail light.
The R/BL wire from the ignition switch supplies power to your dash lights, and your running lights.
I couldn't make out the rest of the wiring diagram, but it's a place to start.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-10-2012, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Gah!

I got the ignition switch assembly at the bottom out. Got some electrical contact cleaner and started to gently wipe down contacts. Took some very fine sandpaper and cleaned up some contacts. Everything was going great, until I lifted up the little piece and was looking on the bottom of it and whoops! One of those tiny springs fell out on to my garage floor.

I spent like 15 minutes out there looking with a flashlight and I've no clue where in the world that sucker landed or bounced. Anyone know a place that might have different sizes of springs? Would Home Depot or Lowes have a cache of springs?

Oh, and I do get continuity from the blue wire at the ignition switch to the blue wire at the junction box. So that's good news.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-11-2012, 02:19 PM
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Small Spring... Radio Shack, any electrical supply store like radio shack.
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