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Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
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post #1 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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100% not POOGS but similar

I have a '93 with 34000 miles on it. A couple of weeks ago I was on my way home from work when she started cutting out on me on the highway. I thought it might be a sticky float so I got off of the Interstate and onto a back road for the rest of my journey. I made it about 2 miles past that and the bike just shut off as I was sitting at a light. I took it to two different bike shops both said the carbs need to be gone through and cleaned out.

The following day I took it to a shop and it backfired and popped and lurched the whole way there. All in all a 3 mile trip.

After the shop did the carbs they called and told me that a CDI box was in my near future. As it was the CDI box that was causing the popping and backfiring it did on the way to the shop. I picked up the bike ordered a gently used warrantied CDI box and put it on. Same problem.

When it jerks and pops and backfires it feels like it is starving for fuel and it seems to only be on the rear cylinder. I can't be certain as i'm mostly deaf in my right ear.

The bike runs fine until it warms up and then it will just die if I sit at a light for too long, and it always fires right back up and idles fine.

I have spent $500 on this problem so far and still don't have any results, if you guys could help me out I would be forever in your debt.
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post #2 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 10:33 PM
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I would check the ignition system. How do your plugs look? Check for loose grounds. Check for a weak battery. There is a page here which will help u test everything electrical on the bike. If i had time, I would post it for you.

I only understand what I don't understand.
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post #3 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 10:50 PM
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yeah,... mine does kinda the same thing, but not as bad as yours seems to be. Mine will be perfect, then act like poogs, the tach will start freaking out and it will bog then eventually shut down. Turn the key off, open the tank and close it, start her back up and she is perfect again. Just last week i cleaned the ignition switch (look in the verses section), and stretched the contact spings in the switch. seemed better but it has not been very long since then. If the problem returns, im thinking front coil. I think that is where the tach gets its signal for rpm. Thats all i know right now.
Peace out.

1990 vn-750
metzler 880's
r/r relocated
iridium plugs
ngk plug caps
mf agm battery
ballancer and stator replaced. (Lance328)
Pro Tac Backrest
progressive fork springs
fork seals replaced
2003 kdx 220
frp chain gude
frp skid plate
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post #4 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 11:17 PM
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sounds like a bad connection inside the ignition switch... lots of threads on how to fix the switch.. for the amount of time and zero cost I suggest you start there.
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post #5 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimvulcanrider View Post
sounds like a bad connection inside the ignition switch... lots of threads on how to fix the switch.. for the amount of time and zero cost I suggest you start there.
Please respond to my last pm. Thanks.

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post #6 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blazblu82 View Post
I would check the ignition system. How do your plugs look? Check for loose grounds. Check for a weak battery. There is a page here which will help u test everything electrical on the bike. If i had time, I would post it for you.
Plugs are brand new just put them in today as a last ditch effort. I charged up the battery today too. As far as loose grounds go, I have chased down wires to the Coil and CDI box and everything checked out on Voltmeter.

As far as plugs go the front ones were black and carbon coated and are only 2 months old. The rear plugs looked good but I went ahead and changed them anyway.

I don't have any loss in signal from the tac. Everything seems to work just fine except that it jerks and cuts out and its every time I ride the bike. I can have the fuel cap open when I'm riding and it still does it.
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post #7 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-07-2012, 02:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimvulcanrider View Post
sounds like a bad connection inside the ignition switch... lots of threads on how to fix the switch.. for the amount of time and zero cost I suggest you start there.
okay I have done the Ignition switch fix, and it still is doing the same thing. The temp is a lot cooler now (about 85) and I was able to get about 2 more miles out of it. Is it possible that I have a coil that is going bad and once it gets hot enough it starts intermittently firing?

I am beating my head against a wall here and just want to get this thing running so I can enjoy the bike. I know its a good bike its just causing me major headaches.
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post #8 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-07-2012, 02:33 AM Thread Starter
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Please respond to my last pm. Thanks.
I never got a PM from you blazblu
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post #9 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-07-2012, 02:40 AM
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I never got a PM from you blazblu
That was aimed at slim, sorry.

have you tried relocating the R/R? It can be a problem when it gets too hot from the stock exhaust. Aftermarket corrects this by removing the goats belly.

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post #10 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-07-2012, 03:03 AM Thread Starter
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That was aimed at slim, sorry.

have you tried relocating the R/R? It can be a problem when it gets too hot from the stock exhaust. Aftermarket corrects this by removing the goats belly.
I haven't but when I bought the bike it was located on the left side of the frame just above and rear of the passenger peg.
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