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Old 08-28-2012, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Question 2 Wire Front Turn Signals

I know the front turn signals have 3 wires for running lights and turn signal. I bought a set of four 2 wire turn signals from ebay because they were a good deal and I needed something for my rear turn signals. Now, I would love for all of my signals to match. The ones I bought are rectangular rather than the round stock ones.

What are my options for the front? I suppose I could wire them up to only be turn signals and not running lights. But what about getting a converter like you use for boat trailer when your truck has separate lights for brake and turn signals? Something like this? Would that work to convert the signal from the 3 wires on the bike to the 2 wires in the new turn signals?

My thought is hook the running light up to the stop light wire on the converter and then the turn signal wires on the bike to the turn signal wires on the converter. Then the wires out of the converter box to the new signals and run the signal grounds to the grounds on the bike. Think that would work?
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Old 08-28-2012, 12:09 PM
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just curious if you have a photo of the ones you purchased. can the wiring and socket be removed and replaced for 3 wire? are they LED??

not sure where you planned on installing this converter??

seems to me you either modify the stalk for a 3 wire plug or try a different stalk altogether. maybe I am just not understanding your question.
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Old 08-28-2012, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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The ones I bought are like these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...#ht_784wt_1165 They aren't big enough for the stock bulb assemblies to fit in. They aren't LED. They are single filament bulbs.

I was thinking of installing the converter inline to the front turn signals. Just wasn't sure if it would take the running light and turn signal and make them work somewhat like a boat trailer where you only have a single tail light that works for running light, brake light and turn signal. Worst case I have different looking signals on the front and back for the time being.
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Old 08-28-2012, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deviate View Post
The ones I bought are like these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...#ht_784wt_1165 They aren't big enough for the stock bulb assemblies to fit in. They aren't LED. They are single filament bulbs.

I was thinking of installing the converter inline to the front turn signals. Just wasn't sure if it would take the running light and turn signal and make them work somewhat like a boat trailer where you only have a single tail light that works for running light, brake light and turn signal. Worst case I have different looking signals on the front and back for the time being.
Depending on which state you live in, you may not pass inspection if the running lights/marker lights are disabled. As far as using a converter... they require more current and voltage which we all know isn't the best thing for the Vulcan electric system. I'm with the first guy (posting from my phone... sorry I can't remember user name), if you can't swap the sockets of the two wire assemblies for the stock 3wire socket/wires, which will have the provision for the correct watt and size bulb to allow the turn signal to flash correctly and the fuses not to blow, you most likely will not be able to use them for the front.
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Old 08-28-2012, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Here's another link of a guy that did something similar on a Honda Shadow: http://www.hondashadow.net/forum/72-...cal-gurus.html. Seems that he still had a little issue though.
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Old 08-28-2012, 01:54 PM
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Ok...the photo helps me grasp this...lol

if the converter is designed to make a single circuit bulb work like a dual filament bulb, then it should work. I imagine it will only supply partial voltage to the "running light" and then switch that bulb to "blinker" mode depending on the input signals to the converter.

It would require 2 converters (one for each stalk).

I am thinking you might be able to replace the socket in the housing with a dual element socket(3 wire) an save some money while keeping it clean on the wiring side.
Not having the lights to look at, I can't say for sure, but I am betting if you can remove the socket, you can re-install a 1157 socket and still pass a 3rd wire through the stalk.

here is a link to get the wired sockets:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...n.html%23BA15s

Last edited by kc2dgq; 08-28-2012 at 02:00 PM.
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:01 PM
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I guess I'd just buy a whole matching set ...fronts and rears.... And not have to deal with converters wires and bulbs. Sell off the rears that don't match. You see sets for sale on eBay now and then, some dealers carry aftermarket signals too.

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Old 08-28-2012, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I think y'all are right. I thought I might be able to get a deal. *sigh*

So another question...in your opinion does it look bad/weird for a bike to have different front and rear turn signals?
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deviate View Post
Yeah I think y'all are right. I thought I might be able to get a deal. *sigh*

So another question...in your opinion does it look bad/weird for a bike to have different front and rear turn signals?
Not really. My bike, and alot of faired sport bikes have the rear turnsignal inside the tail light and stalk or flush mounted signals in front.

I guess if both are in real long stalks or have diffrent finnishes (chrome and black) it might look "weird

I had rectangular rears on my Suzuki and round fronts and no one noticed untill I pointed it out. Guess it is more if the question does it really matter to you? I tend to pick function over form. Some folks are "picky" about how their bike looks and would never mix parts ....lol.

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Old 08-28-2012, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kc2dgq View Post
Ok...the photo helps me grasp this...lol

if the converter is designed to make a single circuit bulb work like a dual filament bulb, then it should work. I imagine it will only supply partial voltage to the "running light" and then switch that bulb to "blinker" mode depending on the input signals to the converter.

It would require 2 converters (one for each stalk).

I am thinking you might be able to replace the socket in the housing with a dual element socket(3 wire) an save some money while keeping it clean on the wiring side.
Not having the lights to look at, I can't say for sure, but I am betting if you can remove the socket, you can re-install a 1157 socket and still pass a 3rd wire through the stalk.

here is a link to get the wired sockets:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...n.html%23BA15s
I believe there is a difference in the actual filaments within the glass bulb due to the electrical charge and the "burning" or "on" stage of the light. The blinker burns brighter but for a shorter on/off period. The running light is not as bright and burns steady but for a longer period. Because of that, I would agree that replacing the socket with a three wire option would be a better fix. I am not sure if the converter will be able to make up for the filament burn characteristics.

and always remember, "Ride until you rot!"
**Really not sure if the Big "C" is back right now
but having to face the fact that this is a lifetime routine
going forward. Five operations done and it still continues.

Tom
Vulcan 2000
New ride: 2009 Victory Vision Arlen Ness Signature Series
4507 miles

Last edited by Vulcan2000; 08-28-2012 at 07:59 PM.
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