How do I release the electrical wire connector locks on the junction box? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-18-2012, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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Question How do I release the electrical wire connector locks on the junction box?

I know that I figured out how to disconnect the electrical wire connectors on the jb/fuse box once before, maybe 2 years ago. I was out checking the bike over a few days ago and could not get the connector locks to release on the 10 and 8 wire connectors. Seems like I used a very small flat screwdriver to lift the tabs and pull them out before, but 20 or 30 minutes of combinations of lifting, pushing down, pulling out etc., etc. got me no where. I have always been able to figure out how to unlock electical connectors on my cars and trucks, but this bike has me buffaloed right now.

Any suggestions as to what I am missing here?

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-18-2012, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlHossCanada View Post
I know that I figured out how to disconnect the electrical wire connectors on the jb/fuse box once before, maybe 2 years ago. I was out checking the bike over a few days ago and could not get the connector locks to release on the 10 and 8 wire connectors. Seems like I used a very small flat screwdriver to lift the tabs and pull them out before, but 20 or 30 minutes of combinations of lifting, pushing down, pulling out etc., etc. got me no where. I have always been able to figure out how to unlock electical connectors on my cars and trucks, but this bike has me buffaloed right now.

Any suggestions as to what I am missing here?
When TS'ing my JB, I had a tough time with the same. I D K how i finally got 'em disconnected...maybe more muscle.

WilliamTech

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-18-2012, 01:26 PM
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I broke the little tab over the 8 pin off and used a small bladed screwdriver.

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-26-2012, 12:59 AM Thread Starter
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Scant help on this topic eh? Oh well, that is OK.

What I was really doing was getting some hands on experience in how to move the blue wire for the headlight to the empty space in the 10 connector that is always hot when the key is turned on. It is much easier to learn on a warm day at home in the yard, than on a cold wet night on the side of the road 50 miles from home.

slimvulcanrider and others, including myself, have often mentioned this as a quick emergency fix to get home if the headlight circuit loses power.

What I learned was that bridging the blue wire in the connector to the empty space beside it with a short 2" piece of solid 14 ga copper house wire bent over double, was easier than releasing the clip and moving the blue wire.

This procedure triggers the headlight circuit as if the engine had started and the sensor wire (brown one on the r/r I think?) was receiving current from the alternator. Removing the short wire bridge from the connector left the headlight burning with a properly functioning HL circuit.

This could help you determine if the HL circuit is good on a bike you are restoring even if the bike won`t currently start for some reason.

Alternatively if you are stuck on the side of the road some dark night with a recently discovered non working HL circuit, you could leave the wire bridge in place long enough to light the road and get you home.

Note here that you can substitute almost any type of wire for the piece of solid copper wire I used, as long as it is heavy enough to carry the current without melting. ie. 14 or even 16ga multistrand automotive wire, steel mechanics wire, even a heavy paper clip or ladies hair pin if that is all you have.

I have added some tools and repair supplies to my daily carry toolkit, including 6 or 8 feet of isulated 14 ga automotive wire and a couple of feet of solid 14ga copper wire salvage from the scrap pile of a recent house wiring project.

Hope this post encourages some less experienced wrenches to think about what potential problems you might be able to deal with while out on the road. Maybe more than you think with some planning and preparation.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9127

Last edited by OlHossCanada; 08-26-2012 at 01:02 AM.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-26-2012, 01:06 AM
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Ollhoss, sorry for not understanding what you were trying to do... but here is a good read for what you were trying to do.

Reusing Plastic Wire Connectors
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