Stator fried? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-17-2012, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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Stator fried?

I'm having charging issues. I've done quite a bit of reading, but have a few questions still.

I first noticed the battery wasn't charging. But I haven't really ridden the bike yet, so from my understanding, this bike won't charge the battery unless ridden for a while at higher RPM's. None the less, I still felt it important to test the charging system. I understand I should see a fully charged battery rise from 12.5 to up to 14 v when reved at close to 4000 RPM. I tested this with my multimeter and at higher RPM's I saw no climb. I thought I should do some testing.

Tested all 3 stator wires on lowest Ohm setting... Received 0.7 - 0.8(fluxuated quite a bit, but finally rested between these two readings). Apparently(from what I read on some forum posts), to zero a digital multimeter you touch the two leads together and subtract that reading from the reading received from the stator tests.

When I zeroed the multimeter(by touching the red and black lead together) I received a reading of 0.2 - 0.3

Am I correct in thinking that I should assume the stator test on all thee detached bullet connections in front of the battery, whatever those readings are, should be 0.2 - 0.3 less?

If so, is that not within spec and my stator is good? At which point I should look at the R/R...?

I did this test with battery connected and fully charged with the bike off.

1986 VN750
33,000 km's
Coastered
R/R relocated
Yuasa MF Battery
Iridium plugs/new wires & boots.
Custom 900 Seat
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 01:40 AM
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While the ohm tests are helpful, the two really important ones for the stator are grounding (if any leg has any continuity with ground, it is bad), as well as AC voltage output.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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I'll check those tests as well when I get home later. Thanks!

1986 VN750
33,000 km's
Coastered
R/R relocated
Yuasa MF Battery
Iridium plugs/new wires & boots.
Custom 900 Seat
Bar end mirrors
Lowered headlight
Carbs cleaned
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 11:18 AM
Crap, I WAS in 5th gear.
 
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If you don't find anything odd with the engine cool, warm it up thoroughly since there can be intermittent problems that only show up when hot. If you have a stock stator you should be reading around 20v at idle. Use slimvulcanrider's spreadsheet.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, looks good so far. I tested for continuity between each stator leg and the ground, and I received a zero reading(no change from Multimeter from just holding the two prongs seperated in the air to apply the prongs to each leg while keeping the black prong touching the ground terminal on the battery.)

I also tested all three legs(between each other) for AC output. I received a reading of around 20V @ idle to around 70V around 4000rpm.

From what I've researched this is right on the money.

I plan on testing the R/R next unless anyone has any feedback here.

1986 VN750
33,000 km's
Coastered
R/R relocated
Yuasa MF Battery
Iridium plugs/new wires & boots.
Custom 900 Seat
Bar end mirrors
Lowered headlight
Carbs cleaned
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 06:48 PM
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The resistance test isn't really all that useful..... check for a short to ground and check that you have close to 20vac/1000RPM leg to leg (unloaded, of course)
those are the best tests for the stator. Oh, and do the tests with an engine at normal operating temp.... cold stator tests can give false readings.....
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Dariv,

To start, thanks for your input. Secondly, I'm not sure what the procedure is to test a short to ground.

Also, I thought I tested 20vac/1000RPM leg to leg. In my last post I described receiving 20 V. At around 1000(idle more like 1100 Rpm.) and close to 70v @ near 4000 rpm. Did I use the wrong setting on the multimeter?

1986 VN750
33,000 km's
Coastered
R/R relocated
Yuasa MF Battery
Iridium plugs/new wires & boots.
Custom 900 Seat
Bar end mirrors
Lowered headlight
Carbs cleaned
Gold Phillings is offline  
post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 08:16 PM
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You just use your ohm meter and check for any continuity between any of the three stator wires and the case. That would be bad. But the coils can also short to each other. The symptom of that is low stator output. Nominal stator output is 20 vac per 1000 rpm. So at idle should be around 20 volts. 4000 rpm should get you around 80 volts and so on. Your numbers are fine.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Dariv,

Sounds like my stator is fine.

So I tested the R/R with it removed from the bike and tested all spade connections @ 2000 Ohms on my multimeter.

I received no readings from my mulrimeter.(1) I get 1 when not reading anything and 1 when testing every connection on the R/R.

Then I tried all settings on the multimeter just to be certain I wasn't missing anything. All readings again are one(1).

Do I have a bad R/R?

1986 VN750
33,000 km's
Coastered
R/R relocated
Yuasa MF Battery
Iridium plugs/new wires & boots.
Custom 900 Seat
Bar end mirrors
Lowered headlight
Carbs cleaned
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry, just to be clear when I said I tried all settings on my multimeter, I meant all denominations available on the Ohm setting.

1986 VN750
33,000 km's
Coastered
R/R relocated
Yuasa MF Battery
Iridium plugs/new wires & boots.
Custom 900 Seat
Bar end mirrors
Lowered headlight
Carbs cleaned
Gold Phillings is offline  
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