Stator & R/R both bad - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-29-2012, 01:11 AM Thread Starter
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Stator & R/R both bad

Not mine thank goodness, but one of the guys at work here has an 86 VN750 and he told me the other week he couldn't keep it running, bought a new battery and it died. He took it to a dealer and they told him the Stator and R/R are both bad and it would cost about $800 to fix it. I've never pulled an engine but I read a few posts and it doesn't seem that bad. I would rather do it by pulling the engine. The bike looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor, so I don't want to cut it up by doing the stator mod.

So how many members have pulled their engine for any reason, and how long would you say it took you. I'm pretty handy with a wrench, I know if it was my bike I would go at it myself.

And by the way, I told him I could just give him $500 for the bike....then it's my problem.

"Show me a man who makes no mistakes, and I'll show you a man who doesn't do things." Theodore Roosevelt."

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-29-2012, 01:48 AM
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A motor pull is fairly simple if you take your time. It could be done in a few hours with two sets of hands. And with the help of the forum, any trip wires can be rememdied.

I'd say go for it and take plenty of pictures during disassembly to aid reassembly.

Oh yeah .... he should help too.

87 vn750at least that is what the frame #'s say
"Squirrel Bike" aka Jersey

Rat bike with a good PR agent

shaved and coastered
2 into 1 exhaust
rear 170 and front 110
Relocated R/R
custom dash with voltmeter
Spitfire windscreen
Plutonium plugs
Recovered seat without "butt hammers"
More to come
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-29-2012, 02:02 AM
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pulling the motor is very easy, takes about 10 or 15 minutes. it's the 6 to 8 hours of getting everything drained and unhooked that is the real work. be sure to label your electrical connectors and vaccuum lines. it's pretty straight forward to get it apart. i honestly haven't put one back together but it shouldn't be any harder than it was to take apart. i use a craftsman bike jack with a chunk of 2x12 on top, it's by far the easiest motor removal i have ever done due to the right frame cradle being able to be removed. a honda cb750 is about 20 times as hard to wiggle the motor out of the double cradle, where as the vn750 just "walks" out if you use a jack on wheels. if you are handy with a wrench, and take your time to label (and take lots of pics) as you remove stuff, you can do it in a weekend, no problem. i have removed 5 or 6 vn750 motors and like i said, i would rather do one of these than about any other bike out there. the bike jack will also make a super handy work table once it is out, as you can pump it up a couple feet. a mechanic's stool or a bucket to sit on, heck yeah, after the stator is replaced, drop the jack down and roll the motor right back in place. a craftsman bike jack can be found on craigslist easy enough, i paid $25 for mine and it was basically new. even $50 would be money well spent as the jack will make things go so easy. i wouldn't want to do it with a milk crate or blocks of wood, myself. that motor is going to be right at about 200 pounds and not real easy to man-handle if you are an old dogg like me

2005 VN750

2003 VN1500 Nomad FI Bagger

2004 KLX400SR Dual Sport light adv bike

1969 CB750 K0 sand cast #1767

couple of nice GL650 Silver Wing Interstates, one with hack

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-29-2012, 02:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragon159 View Post
A motor pull is fairly simple if you take your time. It could be done in a few hours with two sets of hands
i have never once done a motor pull with any assistance. a good jack and a good double set of pry bars are all that is needed. i have removed well over 100 motors using this technique. it obviously helps to have a smooth concrete floor to roll the jack on. a pile of 1x4 and 2x4 chunks are always handy to have close too, although you shouldn't need them for the vn750 as it is pretty flat on bottom. i pulled a motor last month using my jack. there is absolutely no "brute force" needed using my method.

air impacts will make the job very easy too, let me tell ya!

2005 VN750

2003 VN1500 Nomad FI Bagger

2004 KLX400SR Dual Sport light adv bike

1969 CB750 K0 sand cast #1767

couple of nice GL650 Silver Wing Interstates, one with hack

2 and 4 stroke dirt bikes

other vintage stuff back in the corner
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-29-2012, 03:21 AM
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I did mine on a dirt floor "garage" solo and had no problems using a standard floor jack and a 2x4. Air tools would have been nice but the old place couldn't handle the compressor without tripping a breaker. Finished after three days of after work free time (would have taken less had I not taken so many beer breaks)

87 vn750at least that is what the frame #'s say
"Squirrel Bike" aka Jersey

Rat bike with a good PR agent

shaved and coastered
2 into 1 exhaust
rear 170 and front 110
Relocated R/R
custom dash with voltmeter
Spitfire windscreen
Plutonium plugs
Recovered seat without "butt hammers"
More to come
Praise to the Parts Goddess Crobins for needed things

When someone tells me "Great minds think alike" all I can think is "You Pervert"
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-29-2012, 06:38 AM Thread Starter
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Well, it's up to him at this point to buy the parts. I found a list of gaskets and o-rings on a previous post so gathering the parts shouldn't be bad at all. I read a lot of stator threads in the past, any difference between Ricks stator & Electrosport, or is there another one that's reccomended.

"Show me a man who makes no mistakes, and I'll show you a man who doesn't do things." Theodore Roosevelt."

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-29-2012, 11:18 AM
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I would go ahead and do the stator mod when you have the engine pulled. Keeps the nasties out of the engine, but means you can do a quick stator swap in the future. Post-mod it took me about an hour and a half to swap the stator, mostly due to gasket-maker cleanup.

Note that I got away with my engine pull without any jacks. I just used 2 cinder-blocks with carpet on top of it under the engine, and it slid right out.

Send your stator to be rewound by TPE. I would not suggest buying a new stator. The quality of the ones available seems to be going down over time.

Edit: Have him consider balance dampers at the same time? It's an extra $55 or so for the dampers and tool.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350

Last edited by thtanner; 05-29-2012 at 12:14 PM.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-29-2012, 11:25 AM
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You don't have to completely remove the engine to change the stator. Just cockeye it enough to get the bolts out. The whole reason you have to remove the motor is the frame is in the way of removing all the bolts. You don't have to remove all the electrical connections either. If you have a helping hand it can all be done in 2 to 3 hours.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-29-2012, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkingdogg View Post
that motor is going to be right at about 200 pounds and not real easy to man-handle if you are an old dogg like me
Heck, I am 28 and I pulled something hauling it across the garage. It took a week or two to get back to normal!

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 08:33 PM
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I second the TPE stator. http://www.tpe-usa.com/ its the cheapest and best quality. while talking to Tim, get your ZR/R from his as well... he sells a very good r/r that produces a constant 14.0+ voltage a crossed all the rpm ranges.
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