advice needed on electrical accessories!! - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-10-2012, 01:18 AM Thread Starter
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advice needed on electrical accessories!!

well, to celebrate the 20th year i have owed my 88 vn750, i thought i would maybe give her a makeover. to start, "road kill" (ran over a deer a few years ago!) is pretty much stock. i never really knew about the stator/elec system issues until i came here a couple years ago. one thing i did do a few years ago was to put a 55/100 watt "illegal flamethrower" headlight lamp in, ran it several thousand miles but knowing now about the stator i leave it on low beam most of the time. don't do much night riding, just like to be seen! anyways i had my eye on the led tail light, really super sick of the damned blinkers (3rd set and 2 are busted again) and was looking to relocate some led blinkers to the rear plate, and slap some up on the bucket as well. oh and one of the rear plate frames "back off" i think it's called, with led's for an extra brake light.

kind of liking the "stop/turn/run" controllers i am seeing, might add one of those too. well hmmm the more i read the posts here the more confused i get. seems the led's will save some wattage, which is a good thing with a known stator defect, unless you ask the next guy who says NOT running the system under full load is bad on the r/r as well as the stator!! dang!! seems i read somewhere i can add 70 watts to the system... well the 55/100 headlight is basically sucking up 40 watts over the stock 55/60, which seems to be no problem, unless you ask the nexy guy who will say i am frying my stator!

i know much has been written about this subject, but in hours of reading posts it seems i know less than when i started! it would be great to hear from some fellow riders who are running accessory lighting and led blinkers etc. i wouldn't mind scrapping the flamethrower headlight if i can safely add a couple of 20 watt-ish driving lights. but seems it wouldn't matter as far as load, it would be the same, maybe just look cooler.

btw i got an agm/mf battery this year and some iridium ngk's, i know the board is kind of split on the plugs but i got them locally for $22/set so what the heck. so will be wrenching some minor stuff soon, crash bar to put on, extra seat to start to make more comfortable, looking at some new soft luggage but those damned broken blinkers are right in the way of anything other than the dinky bags i have now.

and also, as i mull over these mods, i begin to wonder about a vn1600 nomad, some days i feel i have outgrown my vn750, back when i bought it a 750 was a "large" bike but that has sure changed. and it would be nice to be able to find some bolt on accessories for a change. and run 3 headlights without worrying about the stator. well in any case i will be keeping "road kill" as a light touring bike or maybe someday even taking off the plexi-fairing and luggage and just making her an in-town runner. she's been with me far longer than any of my wives, and complained a whole lot less. she's a keeper, for sure. some advice on adding led's and bike's total normal watt useage vs system max output and the pro's and con's of a loaded up system vs a lightly loaded system would be most helpful!!
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-10-2012, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by sparkingdogg View Post
btw i got an agm/mf battery this year and some iridium ngk's, i know the board is kind of split on the plugs but i got them locally for $22/set so what the heck.
The board is definitely not split on the Iridiums. I think those and the MF battery are the two things the board actually agrees on as a whole!

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-10-2012, 01:34 AM Thread Starter
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oh haha ok, well that's good to hear! i looked at them years ago for $40 and didn't do it. man, one thing... i have ALWAYS had major hot start problems... i hope this won't stop the back-fire on hot starts!! i laugh and laugh every time it happens, people darned near ready to run for cover! it's easily as loud as a .22 short and sometimes a really good one will be much louder! dogs barking/babies crying/grown men ducking and me grinning ear to ear!

2005 VN750

2003 VN1500 Nomad FI Bagger

2004 KLX400SR Dual Sport light adv bike

1969 CB750 K0 sand cast #1767

couple of nice GL650 Silver Wing Interstates, one with hack

2 and 4 stroke dirt bikes

other vintage stuff back in the corner
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-10-2012, 10:46 AM
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Sounds like you are not having any issues with your stator or R/R, so I think if you do a little calculations before modding, you can mod whatever you want.

The 70 watts mentioned is the max load you can add to the stock system without overloading the stator. Someone did this calculation a while ago and it is generally accepted by the group.

The stator produces so much wattage....the R/R will distribute what the load demand is, and shunt the unused portion to ground. The less load on the system will cause the R/R to shunt more to ground and the hotter the R/R will get. If you go over the max wattage load, the stator is going to be stressed. stator and R/R work independently and compliment each other.

If you want to add wattage, try to balance the total load by reducing wattage elsewhere...one option is to replace incandescent bulbs with LED's to reduce the load on that circuit. Keep a balanced approach and you should be OK.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-10-2012, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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ok thank you for reaffirming what i thought was true. no i am not having any stator problems and the r/r has always been fine. it now makes perfect sense that if load is reduced the r/r relocate is more critical. i am planning the relocate sooner or later, no sense waiting 'til it cooks itself. i think i will keep the 100 watt headlight and make the rest of the lighting led for now. can anyone explain the benefits of the MOSFET r/r? i have seen it mentioned, i assume it works electronically and not mechanically like i believe the oem r/r works. more reliable? longer life?

besides being illegal (i only run it during daylight or at night with no traffic!) is there any reason i have not heard mention of the 100 watt headlight here? i think it is just incredible, we have a heavy deer population and it does a great job of lighting the sides of the road should i get back after sunset! and think of the daytime viseability to oncoming traffic, 55 or 60 watts vs 100!

thanks, this post is really great to help keep my "old" bike alive

2005 VN750

2003 VN1500 Nomad FI Bagger

2004 KLX400SR Dual Sport light adv bike

1969 CB750 K0 sand cast #1767

couple of nice GL650 Silver Wing Interstates, one with hack

2 and 4 stroke dirt bikes

other vintage stuff back in the corner
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-10-2012, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkingdogg View Post
ok thank you for reaffirming what i thought was true. no i am not having any stator problems and the r/r has always been fine. it now makes perfect sense that if load is reduced the r/r relocate is more critical. i am planning the relocate sooner or later, no sense waiting 'til it cooks itself. i think i will keep the 100 watt headlight and make the rest of the lighting led for now. can anyone explain the benefits of the MOSFET r/r? i have seen it mentioned, i assume it works electronically and not mechanically like i believe the oem r/r works. more reliable? longer life?

besides being illegal (i only run it during daylight or at night with no traffic!) is there any reason i have not heard mention of the 100 watt headlight here? i think it is just incredible, we have a heavy deer population and it does a great job of lighting the sides of the road should i get back after sunset! and think of the daytime viseability to oncoming traffic, 55 or 60 watts vs 100!

thanks, this post is really great to help keep my "old" bike alive
Just curious, how many miles have you put on in 20 years?? (Also, my wife didn't last nearly 20 years either!!)



Pete Herrmann
1994 Vulcan 750 40K on the clock and counting....

Bought 4/2011 28k Miles,
New Rick's Motorsports R/R
Tim Parrot Stator
Tuxedo Mod
KAW Saddlebag/signal relocation brackets
NGK Iridium Plugs
TOC MCCT's
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-10-2012, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Just curious, how many miles have you put on in 20 years?? (Also, my wife didn't last nearly 20 years either!!)
only about 14k miles. it's still almost mint. i was a single parent for much of the time so it didn't get ridden for years at a time... didn't want to take any chances. i bought her in 92 with 1500 miles on her, for $1500, carbs were gummed up from sitting! added fuel treatment and a tank later she was running great! will post pics sometime soon!

2005 VN750

2003 VN1500 Nomad FI Bagger

2004 KLX400SR Dual Sport light adv bike

1969 CB750 K0 sand cast #1767

couple of nice GL650 Silver Wing Interstates, one with hack

2 and 4 stroke dirt bikes

other vintage stuff back in the corner
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-10-2012, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by sparkingdogg View Post
can anyone explain the benefits of the MOSFET r/r? i have seen it mentioned, i assume it works electronically and not mechanically like i believe the oem r/r works. more reliable? longer life?
alive
both are electrical...nothing mechanical about either R/R.

Mosfets are more efficient than the stock R/R at what they do, but they both shunt the unused portion to ground.

As I understand it, Mosfet R/R will provide more voltage under load to charge the battery while dumping the unused wattage generated by the stator with less heat generated in the process.
It is suggested that the new mosfet R/R should not be used with acid batteries because the higher voltage could "cook" your battery.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-10-2012, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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As I understand it, Mosfet R/R will provide more voltage under load to charge the battery while dumping the unused wattage generated by the stator with less heat generated in the process.
It is suggested that the new mosfet R/R should not be used with acid batteries because the higher voltage could "cook" your battery.
thanks for clearing that up. sounds like i will eventually do the MOSFET. blew off the plugs and agm battery again today, went for a kool 200 mile ride in the rolling hills of northwest iowa (and no helmet laws!). ah, the joys of being self employed! 81 degrees and sunny but pretty windy. seems the hot start issue is getting worse... it was really starting hard after each stop. i know the old wet cell has got to be near dead, it's a couple years old and didn't charge it over the winter. will do the agm and iridiums before the next ride. on a seperate note, the phantom out of gas syndrome is solved it seems, thanks to this board!

i blew carb cleaner through the vent tube and cleaned the cap, last year. the "poogs" was getting worse and worse. hasn't died once since i did the clean-out!

2005 VN750

2003 VN1500 Nomad FI Bagger

2004 KLX400SR Dual Sport light adv bike

1969 CB750 K0 sand cast #1767

couple of nice GL650 Silver Wing Interstates, one with hack

2 and 4 stroke dirt bikes

other vintage stuff back in the corner
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-10-2012, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterherrm View Post
Just curious, how many miles have you put on in 20 years?? (Also, my wife didn't last nearly 20 years either!!)
Most wives don't last 20 years anymore,if they did they would find out we are a lot easier to get along with as we get older....lol.I'm in the same boat with you all.But one wife(of my own) is enough to do me a lifetime.




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Current ride 05 1500 Classic FI
lovin' the new scoot



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