Unknown Power issues. - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Unknown Power issues.

Hello riders,

So I have a 94 kawasaki Vulcan VN 750. I seem to be having battery or electrical issues. I am new to bikes, and trying to figure out what I can from the manual and online sources, but I am a bit confused.

I gave my battery a charge since I had left the key on and stalled a bunch of times learning how to get started. I went out on a tour for a few hours and stalled it a few times. At most 7 times over the course of 3 hours. It got a bit chilly so i pulled over, killed the engine and put on a sweater. I left the key on and the bike would not start anymore. She turned over a couple times but would not run. I am thinking that a few stalls and 5 minutes of sitting should not kill a battery. I was able to bump start it, then she died at again about 30 minutes down the road. I bump started again and then I lost all engine power, the engine started making a huffing sound, power came back momentarily then completely died. Would not turn over, not even the clicking sound when there is not enough power.

I tossed it on the trailer and got it home. I gave the battery 24hrs of slow trickle charge at 2amps. She starts fine, there is plenty of oil.

I tried starting the bike and disconnecting the Positive from the battery to see if the Stater or Rectfier/regulator (my dad says magneto? I have never heard of such a thing) is keeping the bike running, and the engine dies immediately. I am not sure if this even works on a bike as it does on cars.

Now I did foolishly add a small bottle of Fuel injector and carb cleaner to my full tank of gas, but of course those are designed for a full tank of gas on a car. I do not know if this would be a factor at all.

The plugs have threaded caps but I know that is not completely uncommon on bikes.

Previous owner says the battery was new at the end of last season and it certainly looks new in terms of dirt build up and such. I am concerned there may be a wiring issue, or the battery may be no good, but I am leaning towards a bad stater or rectifier/regulator.

The Idle is also really low. There is a knob on the left of the bike beside the fuel switch, Turning it does seem to affect the idle, but not nearly enough. She does not like to sit and run at all. This could be a completely separate issue.

Any expert opinions out there?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 10:16 AM
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First off do not run the bike with the battery disconected it may damage the rectifier and stator, to check the charging put a multimeter on the battery then increase revs to 4000 the multimeter should go from 12.5 upto around14.5 these bikes donot run well with poor electrics including a low battery, slow idle may mean blocked idle jets in carbs try running some seafoam in the gas to see if that clears it up if not you may need to clean the jets, the control knob on the left should increase your tickover if not you may have blocked jets, have a look at the stickys on the forum Slimvulcanrider has a break down on how to check the stator/rectifier out puts

Here is the link https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21206
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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Hey thanks for the tips.

((nvm, it says spare beside those fuses... my assistant cannot read it seems :P ))

I'll print off that chart and see if I can dig up a digital volt meter.

Last edited by WeaSeL; 04-19-2012 at 10:34 AM. Reason: corrected information
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 10:42 AM
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Your welcome, O and welcome to the forum, these bikes are best run with a AGM battery and Iridium spark plugs, check the verses on the main forum there is loads of info on there anything you want just type in the search box and it will come up with it, also grease the splines with moly grease clean all electricl connections and coat with dielectric grease.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 11:03 AM
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one other thing.. the Stator and R/R are used instead of a magneto... a magneto is used on early bikes that do not have a charging system to maintain a battery. the magneto is the power source. generally speaking if the bike has a kick starter and no battery it has a magneto.

Just fallow my guide that SWAGMAN linked you to, and you shouldn't go wrong. just make sure the battery is fully charged (12.0+ volts) before running any tests. the numbers on the right are the values that are acceptable ranges. if the number is higher or lower than the given number than that test indicates a fault.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help and the welcome guys. Really appreciate it. I am a brand new rider and this is my first bike. These forums hae been nothing but helpful.

I really love the bike even with a few dings here and there. I want to restore it over time. . . Y'know once I get her running properly.


I noticed some of the entries do not have a number to the right. Getting into the bottom of page 3 and start of page 4.

My battery was charged with a slow 2AP trickle over the last 24 hrs and was shy of 12v so I have reconnected it and am going to let it charge for a while longer.

Brand wise it is Motorsport Powersport battery. Says it is 12v 14A I cannot find anything that 'looks' like it when I search. I am sure it is an older model of the current ones.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 12:38 PM
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Is the battery a wet cell or dry, AGM is a maintenance free battery, if it is a wet cell where you have to top it with water I would change it for a AGM one as there have been a lot of times when they have leaked acid onto the electrics.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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It is a wet cell. It is topped up already.

Just after charging it for the last while here I went out and took a reading. Started off at 13.5 or so but is slowly declining. I am going to let it sit for the next 10 15 minutes and check again. I checked after 3 - 4 minutes and it had already dropped to 13.2

I am thinking I want to take your advice and go get myself a proper battery. Will likely solve all my woes.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 01:35 PM
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The 3 wet cells I've worked with would all settle down to 12.9-13.0 after charging. They would be as high as 14, but climb down over the course of 30 minutes post-charging.

Edit: By all means, get an AGM. They're great! Along with the spline lube, and getting iridium plugs, it'd be one of the first things that I'd suggest to any VN750 owner.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
I noticed some of the entries do not have a number to the right. Getting into the bottom of page 3 and start of page 4.
these I would assume are the VAC measurements. the reason there isn't a number is because there isn't an exact range, some charge just fine at 50VAC, and others aren't charging until around 70VAC... I am trying to gather more data to better fill in those blanks.

from what you posted it sounds fine... set your multimeter to ohms, and check the resistance between positive battery terminal and both engine ground and frame grounds, also check the ground connections. A lot of problems can be solved with just putting a wrench onto the connections and giving it a 1/4 turn or so (assuming that the bolt was already snug). I had a hard start issue here recently and found my frame ground was almost completely off... tightened it up and starts fine now. and I was looking over the pocket book to figure out how to justify another 60 bucks for a battery.
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