i need light bar/running lights help - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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i need light bar/running lights help

OK.. we all know I'm a noob and i did not do well in electronics in scholl.. so here goes
I want to add running lights or a light bar. i understand there are extra leads in the headlight. Am i understanding it correctly that any lights that are added can go right to those leads and they are on with ignition??

If i want a handlebar switch.. does the switch go to those leads and then the lights are wired to the switch??

I have read around on a lot of the posts but i'm not following it all to well
I need something easy

Pittsburgh Dave
2001 VN750...old ride
2003 VN1600.. new ride
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 11:19 PM
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I just got some lights for my honda. And the instructions had me get the current from the tach light wire. And then it runs through a switch. The leads in the head light bucket are always hot. If you forget to turn the lights off you came run the batt down.

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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 12:18 AM
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Running lights can consume a lot of power. In my past life I ran Car stereo shops and did more fog,driving and running lights then I can count..

The best thing to do is run a (fused) line to the battery and have the switch run off a relay. I just added lights to my bike last week.. I was in walmart (of all places) and saw a set of lights that liked just right for a bike.. they cost less then $20 so I thought I would try them out..

I ran a wire from the battery to the headlight (btw keep the fuse as close to the battery as you can). the relay trigger came off the low beam so when I turn on the high the running lights turn off. You can basically run the lights relay off any switch
you want..

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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 12:22 AM
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pittdave, read this http://www.scribd.com/doc/8931489/Di...ck-Power-Relay

it should answer most of your questions... as for the leads in the HL bucket, use them for the ground and main power wire for a standard 5 pin automotive relay.

pin 85 gound from HL bucket
pin 86 splice into brown wire
pin 87 hot wire from accessory leads in hl bucket
pin 87 A open
pin 30 to Running lights
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 09:35 AM
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I just did this to mine. You can pm me if you need help.

The accessory leads in the headlight are always hot, so you need to run that through a relay to switch it on when the ignition is on.
The connections in the headlight bucket are actually a double bullet connector....meaning you can slide 2 bullet connectors into each lead.

I have mine wired like slim said...except I swapped the "switched" leads for the lights....shouldn't matter since it is just across a switch.

Here is my install:
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthrea...995#post202995

use a standard auto relay

Pin 85 is grounded
pin 87 goes to the lights you are installing
pin 30 gets 12 Volts from the accessory leads (fused and always hot) or directly to the battery with an inline fuse.

pin 86 is the control pin to turn the relay "on" or close the relay contacts.

I suggest you tap into any 12V source that is off when the ignition is off, such as the "hot" lead from the hi/low selector for the headlight, or from the running lights in the front turn signal stalks, dashboard back lighting lights, or you can even use the running lights in the tail light.

First run your tapped (switched) 12V source through an installed switch (mounting location of your choice) and then to pin 86, so your control switch will only work if the ignition is on. This will prevent you from leaving the lights on and draining the battery if you forget and walk away. The control voltage running through your mounted switch will not draw very much current, but the current draw through the relay (pins 30 and 87) going to your lights (or other installed item) will depend on the current draw of what you are installing.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 09:45 AM
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You folks always make things so complicated.

The accessory leads in the bucket are always hot. But they are already fused. You can't run more than 70w anyway, so they will do fine. Just run the positive (red/white?) wire to a handlebar switch and then back to the lights.

You'll want to be able to turn the lights off and on anyway, so you might as well give them their own switch.

No relays, no tapping into other circuits are needed.

But, if you want to make it more complicated for the guy, it's his decision....

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifemaker View Post
You folks always make things so complicated.

The accessory leads in the bucket are always hot. But they are already fused. You can't run more than 70w anyway, so they will do fine. Just run the positive (red/white?) wire to a handlebar switch and then back to the lights.

You'll want to be able to turn the lights off and on anyway, so you might as well give them their own switch.

No relays, no tapping into other circuits are needed.

But, if you want to make it more complicated for the guy, it's his decision....
nothing worth doing is ever easy...lol

with my luck, I would leave the lights on and drain my new AGM battery and get stranded. Push starting the VN750 is no fun....trust me!
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kc2dgq View Post
nothing worth doing is ever easy...lol

with my luck, I would leave the lights on and drain my new AGM battery and get stranded. Push starting the VN750 is no fun....trust me!
Actually many things that are worth doing are in fact easy. Remembering to turn off your lights is easy.....(for some it seems... )

I never had a problem , but then just to make sure, I wired a tiny 12 volt LED inline with the switch. So, if I were to space out and forget for some reason, there was a little, but bright , light there to remind me.

My only reason for posting my solution was the OP said he was not very electrically savvy.... So easy would be the way to go.

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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifemaker View Post
You folks always make things so complicated.

The accessory leads in the bucket are always hot. But they are already fused. You can't run more than 70w anyway, so they will do fine. Just run the positive (red/white?) wire to a handlebar switch and then back to the lights.

You'll want to be able to turn the lights off and on anyway, so you might as well give them their own switch.

No relays, no tapping into other circuits are needed.

But, if you want to make it more complicated for the guy, it's his decision....

Normally I respect your advice. But having installed car audio and alarms for 20 years I can't begin to tell you how wrong you are about this..

I have seen countless cars with burned wires, burned up switches and even melted wiring because someone without electrical experience
thought it was this easy..

First off if you are using a switch that has a 5 or 10 amp rating and your light require a 15 or 20 amp fuse that fuse will protect you if you have a dead short. However, if your switch has a lower rating then your fuse that wire can burn and melt until it shorts to ground or start a fire..

Having said that. this is dependent on a lot of things.. wire size, quality of connections, how the wires are ran and even how long the wire is etc.. When it comes to adding anything that consumes a lot of power it's not worth taking short cuts.. It might work sometimes but more times then not it can cost you big time.

1995 VN750 (SOLD)
05-06 CBR600 R/R
ACCT>MCCT mod
engine guard w/HW pegs
Tires, 230's (170/110)
Smaller blinkers
Driving lights
Pickup coil mod
Speedo delete
mirrors w/reverse mount
Black grips

2000 Buell X1 Lightning
Carbon fiber fender F&R
Carbon fiber fly screen
Carbon fiber race intake
Works Shock
V&H Muffler
SS headers

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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifemaker View Post
Actually many things that are worth doing are in fact easy. Remembering to turn off your lights is easy.....(for some it seems... )
Yup!! CRS is a real problem at times....and yes, if the switch was lighted or had an "on" indicator.....that helps.

haven't left them on yet, but it is my backup just in case.
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